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Engine Removal Checklist

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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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Default Engine Removal Checklist

Is there anything I have missed before I remove my engine this weekend. Its a MY97.

Drain all fluids, oil, water, powersteering fluid
remove rad and hoses
remove airbox and maf
remove intercooler
remove carbon canister
remove powersteering hoses from front/side of engine
remove battery
remove window washer bottle
undo plugs behind battery and at boost pack
remove engine grounds
remove vacuum tubes to boost pack
remove starter
remove downpipe
remove gearbox bolts
remove engine mounting nuts and bolts
remove 10mm allan bolt on gearbox and clutch fork bolt thing
remove bonnet

I have done all the above so far. My clutch was changed about 1000miles ago so the gearbox and engine should not be mated together to well I hope. There is a slight gap so far, about 2-3mm. I am assuming that its only gravity holding the engine now?

Do I hoist the engine up to take the weight off it then just try to separate with a crow bar and the likes?

Do they have to come apart by about 60mm before you can lift out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Chris...
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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From: berks
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60 mm or more as you have 2 studs at the bottom of the engine which need to clear the gearbox, you also need to put a support under the gear box ie jack and a block of wood so the engine comes of the gearbox mainshaft smoothley and with out force.
cheers mickyboy
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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Thanks dude, will do.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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good luck
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 07:14 AM
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I would release the gearbox stabilizer to the bulkhead. You didn't have to drain the ps fluid.
It will take longer to put it back in....

Good luck.

Graham
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
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As said..

plus unbolt the ps pump (two 12mm bolts one on top and one on front of block) and you can then undo the pipes on inlet and lift it to one side save draining it as Graham said.

the 10mm headed bolts in the cam cover fit into the release fork nicely to enable you to remove it if not already removed.

You might find it easier to remove / refit if you remove the headers and refit afterwards..

Oh and worth sticking the car in 5th with handbrake on and undoing the crank pulley bolt, cam wheels.. unless you have the tool to hold them.

Simon
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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micky, 911, Jolly. Thanks for the help guys,

I have removed the release fork pin. Will I be able to put the car into 5th or will the clutch side not engage the flywheel side? If you know what I mean.

Thanks Chris..
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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you will have to refit the fork unless you get lucky and it goes in wihtout using the clutch. Don't use the clutch pedal though as you will just push the end of the slave cylinder out.

Simon
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 10:17 PM
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Thanks again dude.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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I refitted the pin to loosen the crank/cam bolts. Thanks guys.

Here is what I am at so far.



Its now mounted on a stand with the clutch removed. Its time to break it down.

Thanks again for the advice.

Chris..
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