silent running

Assuming no seized nuts/bolts/studs, an aftermarket up-pipe and a downpipe with plenty of clearance around them, no heatshields at all to worry about, intercooler off, Plus Gas releasing oil already applied....

How long a job to remove and refit turbo, up-pipe and headers?

I'm trying to figure out whether this is a Sunday project or whether it's better to leave it for a long weekend. Also I've got to change the rocker cover gaskets, and I'm thinking once all this hardware's out of the way it'll be easier to get in there. At least from underneath.

scoobycraig

what year motor mate, i've just done mine in a day on a 94 scoob wrx

hope that helps

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

4hrs if all is well as you say

silent running

98 WRX.

jonnyh

I was charged 10 hrs labour just for the up-pipe My original one split.

When I posted on here asking if that was reasonable most posters said yes

Think a garage thats done it before would quote 3-4hrs.

scoobycraig

if your machanically minded you can do it ina day 4 sure!

silent running

All sounds OK then. I already had the headers off in about five minutes last weekend, once I'd got off a seized bolt that held me up for three hours. I can laugh now...

scoobycraig

how did ya get on mate?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Progress.???

The charge for removing and refitting with ported headers and purpose designed up-pipe is 2.5 hours. It usually takes a lot less than this unless there is a need to jack the engine on the driver side to get the O/E up-pipe heat shield to clear the gap.
A couple of applications of WD 40 inadvance and at the beginning of the removal helps.
these figures are with the use of a ramp and air drive tools and could double for a job with a (couple) jack on the driveway.

Arch

iTrader: (59)

Without taking the turbo off is there any option to get the standard new age wrx uppipie off without jacking the engine.

scoobycraig

not sure with the newage 1's but with the old 1 the standard heat shield gets in the way so u have 2 jack the engine!

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Nope,But dont be worried by that.Its only and inch or two and can easilly be done with a jack and removal of the n/s engine mounting bolt. Takes 5 mins

silent running

OK well I did some preliminary investigations but ran out of time over the weekend. The turbo heatshield took all of about half a minute to get off. I can see the turbo sitting right there, I can see the three 'easy' up-pipe nuts in front of the turbo and can feel the two tricky ones under the downpipe. I think I can get a ratchet spanner on them. The problem is, even with a bit of PlusGas on them and a two-foot torque wrench I'm not budging the nuts I can get at easily so I'm not confident that my 6" long ratchet spanner will do much good on the tricky nuts. Of course, when I say I'm not budging them, I mean I can feel that the nuts are about to round off so I'm not trying too hard. A six sided 14mm socket is on its way to me via ebay so I'll wait for that to turn up rather than rush and end up with an unremoveable up-pipe. I am also going to try and get the turbo off completely to port it but the downpipe nuts don't seem like they'd cause too much trouble.

silent running

Update: a decent six-sided impact socket is worth it's weight in gold, yet only cost me £1.79 - result! Headers off, downpipe off, up-pipe off, turbo off, in that order. Cracking on with changing the rocker cover gasket while I'm delving around in there. This may not take me three days after all...

euan_r

iTrader: (29)

irwin spiral sockets as well . remember to put turbo on first as well. i didnt had to take off up pipe again to get oil return back on doooh!

silent running

Yes I noticed that the oil drain off the turbo goes back on mainly by luck rather than skill - I really can't see how anyone could get their hands in there under the turbo. Anyway, turbo's ported and back on, ported and wrapped headers and up-pipe back on, downpipe back on, new studs/nuts/gaskets where required. Now just need to get hold of 3 rocker cover washers before I can put everything back together again. And while I was there, replaced the fuel pressure regulator O-ring that I'd been meaning to do for ages. Last time I had the inlet manifold off I damaged it and had had to bodge it with a not quite right size O-ring, so now the proper one's on.

The whole job's not been as bad as I thought, although I'll wait until I get the thing fired up with no fuel, oil, water or exhaust gas leaks, then I'll relax.