cwt

iTrader: (19)

Hi all need a new bottom end for my type r !!!!!!!!!!!!
advice please new short block ????? complete us 2.5

rebuild the old one ????

whats the advantages/disadvantages by going to a 2.5 ????

just honest advice please ASAP.


Need to get the car done for 6th of april aggggggghhhhhhhh
in kent aswell so anyone in the area that knows there scoobys


cheers all.

Slowboy Racing

It really depends on what you want from the car. IMHO I would stick with your cdb over the 2.5 semi and have this built with strengthened internals. I no the 2.5 USDM can be had for a good price, but this money can be spent on your with better results.

Mark A

iTrader: (1)

Contact any of the guys on here, API, Zen or Lateral for starters, they will give you honest advice and a competitive price.

I've used GDA in the past and they've always been very helpful and are based near Tunbridge Wells. Transporting the car to any of the above should not cost much more than £120

If you want a US STi 2.5 then consider importing one from someone like Ron at Axis power racing

Mark A

cwt

iTrader: (19)

thanks for that

more opinions please...............................

Alan Jeffery

2.5 makes for great road car engine with the right set up. Effortless torque, and fabulous on A and B roads. Control RPM for reliability.
2 litre closed deck block used for high revving high output engines by the likes of Roger Clark Motorsport and Andy Forrest. Not essential for fast road, but if you have one already, jolly good! JE pistons not expensive for these.
Very big power available from 2.5 all steel, only if you're mad and have limitless cash.
Me, I'd choose standard short block 2.5, available very cheap now from USA, but then I live in Devon, where the roads are short and twisty.

Slowboy Racing

You also need to bear in mind the added torque of the 2.5 will be putting a lot more stress on your box. Assuming you have the original turbo I would also think this would be running short of breath on the 2.5. I think you also need to consider your current set up in terms of bolt ons as this will also help decide what motor is best suited.

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

Need more info to advise IMHO.

How much you wanting to spend in total, not just for the engine?
You looking for lots of torque or a rev monster?
What do you use the car for? Fast road/drag/track?
Power goals if any?

cwt

iTrader: (19)

hi all

as some of you are starting to make sense

i Want from it is a reliable 300hp or so with good torque i do use the car on track days quite a bit and enjoy driving it simply..
Everything else is standard well for a type r anyway im due to have fitted a hydra ecu of which i had on my old car. well after a new bottom end anyway.
cheers all.

ps got about 2k to spend ish if i sell my lung lol

smokingkills

iTrader: (3)

2k would be easily achievable if you use the standard STI US engine & do the work yourself (not a route possible for me). It does get a little expensive labour wise given that it is probably 15-20hrs of labour. & then there is mapping before running in & mapping after 1000 miles.

If your looking for 300+hp & bags of torque then it sounds like the way to go for you. I am hoping for a safe map producing between 330-350hp & similar torque figures once my engine is run in, but I am restricted with the standard STi TMIC.

What type of intercooler have you got?

bluerigster

iTrader: (9)

The disadvantage of us 2.5 L blocks is the standard pistons are only good for 340 BHP. So if you are looking at running the engine anything over this than forged pistons and rods are required. Standard internals are prone to cracking pistons. Also a full remap is required so extra cost.
The advantage is the capacity is 25% bigger so more torque and lots more low down power meaning a better road car compared to a 2L.

Alan Jeffery

If you track it, go 2 litre, no question! different issues out there..

911

Surely Type R = short gears, so you need the Sti rev limit (esp on track).

The stock 2.5 will be great to 6500 in stock form, but the 2 liter will run 8000.

That is a big difference.

To get 300 x 300 will not be possible from the stock 2 liter i think with std parts?

Personally think Alan and re-building with steel rods/forged 2 liter pistons is the way forward.

There is a great thread in Projects on this subject where all the experts give very detailed advice on spec v costs.

Well worth searching out.

Graham

cwt

iTrader: (19)

rung around today a few of the scoob places and waiting for some ideas on price.

again suggestions welcome

craig.

911

In For Sale there is a short block going. i left a link for you on 22B

No_9

Sorry to hear the bottom end went on the car Craig, I had it on the ramp a week after I bought it, so 6 months or so before selling it to you, mechanic had the listening scope on it and bottom end was fine, had a heatshield rattle when hot and silent apart from that.

Not sure on scooby prices etc for this sort of stuff, I reckon you'll struggle for 300x300 without putting strong internals in and whapping the boost up a lot, possible bigger turbo. I had it RR'd at 1.1-1.2 bar and it was 291 bhp and 243 lb.ft, so 300 bhp easy enough with a bit more boost but the torque will struggle, power is there due to the high rpms.

That said I dare say the extra half litre will help the torque if you go that way, however by the sounds of it it doesn't rev as high so the power will reduce due to that, being just a function of torque and rpm.

Hope you get what you want from it for a fair price.

Ross