dan83590

I am looking to buy a chip to plug into my ECU, Scoobyecu or an ESL etc and I want to be able to switch between the maps of the original and new.

Anyway, my question is, if I create a loop in the circuit from the J1 resistor by means of a switch, would this then switch between both maps?

Or do I have to cut the J1 and then attach the switch, or does it not matter which way I do it?

Dan.

fwdnutz

hi dan i have an esl chip fitted to my ecu and can safely say i would recommend them thoroughly that is not to say the other manufacturers are not as good, just that i have communicated regularly with Andy at esl and he has been very generous with his help and advice! with regards to your Q i believe it can be down as the j1 is link to switch control between the onboard map and the extra port used for esl/other chip boards and i do not see any reason why connecting a switch to this would cause any probs, (be sure to cut the j1 and connect link to ends of resiator) you will have to reset your ecu each time you flick the said switch though becasue the ecu is self learning and eachtime you change the switch the computer will be reset, personally i havent bothered because i am nolonger running std injectors so the std map will not run my car anymore but try it!
be careful when soldering board though so as not to damage youer ecu, or alterantively do what i did and send ecu to ANDY esl he will fit the chip/switch for you and warrneties his work

dan83590

Ok... I was'nt planning on an ECU reset every time I switched maps. Can I get around this at all, can anyone explain in detail? Be as technical as you like, i'll understand.

Dan.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

You can replace J1 with a switch, you do not need to keep the resistor in circuit as it is of '0' value.

You can switch on the fly, but I only recommend it under the following circumstance :

Engine Off
OR
Engine On & idling
Or
Driving with foot off throttle

If you switch at idle you may notice the revs drop/rise and settle as it switches maps.

You no not need to do an ECU reset as switching maps pretty much does this anyway i.e it will revert back to the standard base map and apply timing and boost compensation to suite, and vica-versa.

dan83590

Okay Scott.

So, I can completely remove the J1 resistor and in its place solder in wires to take the dash mounted switch.

Are you still mapping chips for sale? PM me.

Thanks.

Dan.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Yes & Yes

GazJenno

Just out of curiosity why would you want to switch between maps?

I have a chip in my 93WRX and it runs so much better than the standard map not only more power but smoother and better fuel economy and thats with a full de-cat. If I were to have a switch the standard map would be totally wrong for my mods and would also be expecting 100 octane fuel where the chip only wants 97-98 octane, dunno what car you have so that might not apply.

Apart from it being "nifty" why else would you want to do switch between the two maps?

Gaz

dan83590

I've not finalised any of my plans just yet but I was hoping to use a UK spec ECU with the chip installed. The OE map, say a 208bhp, for economy and the new map for a bit of fun. These two maps would both use 97-98RON fuel, what do you think?

And like you say, another gadget to play with.

wez wrx

would'nt bother mate! if you wnt to save fuel just drive off boost! but if you really want to it would be straight forward to wire up a switch. i would'nt remove the resistor, just solder it to the legs!

dan83590

So the general consensus would be that it would work?

GazJenno

yea it would work. I dont think the OE map would be much more economical really, when your not driving on boost I doubt the two maps are that different... then again im not a mapper, although I would be intrested to know the answer to that.

The main difference will be the fueling and ignition timing for higher boost wouldnt it? plus the fueling and ignition timing for any mods.

Like I said before I was getting about 25mpg on the OE map (mixed driving), then fitted the chip mapped for better air filter, 16.5psi boost and full de-cat which I ran with cat for a few months and was getting about 28mpg and now with the de-cat fitted im getting 25mpg again if not more mpg, I seem to be giving it some more right foot to listen to the deeper noise.

If you have a chip mapped for mods I dont think it would be a good idea, sayin that its not exactly a hard thing to do....

Gaz

dan83590

I'll keep pondering. When I fit whatever it is I decide to fit I'll let you know if it was a mistake or not. Another reason I am pondering this is that I do not want to end up with just a map with all the power at the top end, chip will be off the shelf. I have experimented with different ECU's and I find that the 208bhp 7D ECU has more grunt and the Z5,Z4 and U8 are all toward top end.

I could always just fit the chip, cut the J1 and see how its feels. I thought that maybe someone on here would have tried it and save me my time.

Was is your power like in the lower rev range, better or worse than standard?

GazJenno

With the de-cat pipe its awsome. its difficult to stay completely off boost but very easy to control the boost with the throttle. From a dyno print out that I have of a similar car to mine that was running the same mods without the de-cat but with the chip there is a band of high (over 260lbft) torque between 4k and 5k rpm but is making over 200lbft at 3k with a very smooth curve throughout, with the de-cat it feels even more torquey lower down.

On the print out the power figure hit 276bhp at 5980rpm which I think is pretty good as you still have another 1k before the red line if you want.

Once I had fitted the de-cat I went easy for about 100miles but when I came to an on ramp onto the *** I couldnt resist and put my foot to the floor in 2nd doin about 30mph and managed to spin all four wheels abit (not by dumping the clutch just by planting my foot on the throttle) but when it got grip it took off. Was an indication I needed new tyres too but still....

Im happy with the way my car is now and it is definatly alot more drivable than before and suprisingly smooth. Just want to get rid of the slanty intercooler for an STi 4 one I have.

My Car:
1993 WRX
U6 ECU with Chip
16.5psi boost
Full De-cat turbo back exhaust
K&N panel filter
Bailey DV

always run on Optimax V-power

was a 225bhp car now about 285-295 bhp

STi 4 intercooler to be fitted, modified for a classic.

Gaz

wez wrx

With the esl chip i fitted, power is better throughout the rev range! spools up quicker! smoother when crawling, better all round!

GazJenno

Thats what I was trying to say, but ended up writing a novel. Should really get on with my work

wez wrx

gettin rid of the slanty ic too mate! got a 98 one to go on! You guna use a samco pipe for the d/v??

dan83590

Nice one guys. Just the chip it is.

Thanks.

GazJenno

Mines been modified because it had the DV that fitted directly to the intercooler originally that hole had to welded up because having the DV in that postion would of meant it would have been hitting the ICV so its been welded up and a new DV outlet welded on the other side.

The new outlet is the same bore as my bailey DV so all I need is a straight piece of pipe for the DV. I was gonna fit the IC for the summer as the slanty should be ok for the weather were having at the moment.

Dunno what to do with the under bonnet tray yet either?

wez wrx

Im guna keep the origional d/v point but make a new flange with pipe pointing up at 45 degrees and mount the d/v there between the throttle linkage and the idle valve, theres just enough room for the new tube to skim past the idle valve! Im guna fab up a new under tray from stainless, simmilar to the ones you buy for the face lift model. Im a metal worker so its ne probs, i'll let you know how it goes!

wez wrx

Only the flange hits the ivc, the actual hole is just left of it!

dan83590

Right.. I should have an ESL chip on its way. For what its worth I will let you know what I think..

GazJenno

Didn't know that but I bought mine modified and it was cheapish. Might try and modify the old under bonnet tray to fit the slightly bigger IC. Although it aint much bigger than the slanty top you can see there are more fins and there smaller plus the fins on the inside are turbolated, sort of offset.

Ye let us know, are you gonna fit it yourself?

dan83590

Yeah, well sort of. A good friend of mine has a good lady that solders PCB's for a job. Gonna go see her.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

I'll shut up then...but hey what do I know.........I've only done nearly 200 of em'

P.S You will only get better off-boost fuel economy if you are going from a UK or pre Sept 1995 WRX. The reason being the base map used is based on a Z4 from a post sept 1994 WRX. This ran a much smoother map and has got better closed loop fueling compared to the earlier maps.

wez wrx

Scott T.
Any need for that? I was refering to the switch not the chip!! I have a esl chip and im well happy with it, personally i would not bother with a switch system on mine as i find the new map better than the o/e! mpg, smoother running the lot! so switching back defeats the objct for me! And as for the resistor i thought it may of been a good idea to leave it in place and run a switch from there if you wanted to switch it!
wez

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Just referring to your comment about leaving the resistor in after I stated you can take it out.
It's a 0 ohm resistor and hence no different to a wire link or switch.

I apologies, just some times....and i mean just sometimes...I get fed up with answering the same old questions regarding ScoobyECU and ESL chip fitting. I've been answering them for 5 years now...you would think people would know the answers by now.

wez wrx

dan83590

Eveyones help is always well received. Cheers all.

dan83590

Right.

I have fitted the chip, and like someone said earlier there is no need to fit a switchable map unless you want a gadget to play with. Install was painless. Low down power is very much improved. Easy to drive off boost and the power is there if you want it, very good, and very happy. Well sort of...

Problem. The car is not making 1.1bar as it should with the new chip, only 0.9bar on the gauge. It this stage I would like to add that the chip suppier has been extremely helpful, I have had a replacement chip with increased boost duty at no charge (this made no difference), the offer of an RR and mapping session to map around the possible problem, and a possible diagnosis. I am thinking the problem is deffo at my end. So what is it?

I am making full throttle, actuator is good. With the Z5 ECU fitted before all was fine, or it seemed fine. Boost gauge read Max 0.9bar with the Z5. I am stumped as before this mod everything seemed ok yaa.

One more thing that may help a diagnosis is that when the OE U8 ECU was fitted the car was hesistant on boost, most noticable on the motorway. When I fitted the Z5 this problem seemed to dissapear!!

Oh and the chip is fitted into a 7D ECU with the J1 link cut.

I am gonna attempt an ECU reset later but if you have read the other recent threads you'll know that I am having problems locating the jumper leads.

ARRRGGGHHH!!!

dan83590