Fault code 32, oxygen sensor
#1
Fault code 32, oxygen sensor
Please help, I have recently had the CEL come on a couple of times and have reset and checked the ECU fault code and it shows 32, oxygen sensor. Is this the sensor located in the exhaust downpipe just after the turbo?
#2
I think you have a faulty lamda sensor....in the exhaust just after the manifold......if you look at the the turbo...it si just after and clearly visible.....you should see the sensor sticking out with 3 wires connected to a plug.
#5
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Code 32 is Front O2 (A/F) Sensor heater circuit high input.
This is the troubleshooting from the manual
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC)
Step Check Yes No
1 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL FROM ECM.
1)Turn ignition switch to ON.
2)Measure voltage between ECM connector
and chassis ground.
Connector & terminal
(B137) No. 4 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
(B137) No. 5 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Is the voltage more than 8 V? Go to step 3. Go to step 2.
2 CHECK FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR
HEATER CURRENT.
1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.
2)Repair battery short circuit in harness
between ECM and front oxygen (A/F) sensor
connector.
3)Turn ignition switch to ON.
4)Read data of front oxygen (A/F) sensor
heater current using Subaru Select Monitor or
the OBD-II general scan tool.
NOTE:
•Subaru Select Monitor
For detailed operation procedure, refer to the
“READ CURRENT DATA FOR ENGINE”.
<Ref. to EN(DOHC TURBO)-28, Subaru
Select Monitor.>
•OBD-II general scan tool
For detailed operation procedure, refer to the
OBD-II General Scan Tool Instruction Manual.
Is the value more than 2.3 A? Replace ECM.
<Ref. to FU(DOHC
TURBO)-45,
Engine Control
Module.>
END
3 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL FROM ECM.
Measure voltage between ECM connector and
chassis ground.
Connector & terminal
(B137) No. 4 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
(B137) No. 5 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Does the voltage change more
than 8 V by shaking harness
and connector of ECM while
monitoring the value with voltage
meter?
Repair battery
short circuit in harness
between
ECM and front
oxygen (A/F) sensor
connector.
END
The connector for this is by the drivers side suspension strut under the bonnet and may or may not have a black plastic cover depending on the year of car.
If it turns out to be the sensor they're over £300 new, give David at API a ring as he can get hold of them for a hell of a lot less than that. I ended up buying a second hand one for mine (fault code was different though 31 - low input - heater shagged in the sensor) yours look more like a wiring problem or perhaps water in the plug?
This is the troubleshooting from the manual
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC)
Step Check Yes No
1 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL FROM ECM.
1)Turn ignition switch to ON.
2)Measure voltage between ECM connector
and chassis ground.
Connector & terminal
(B137) No. 4 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
(B137) No. 5 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Is the voltage more than 8 V? Go to step 3. Go to step 2.
2 CHECK FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR
HEATER CURRENT.
1)Turn ignition switch to OFF.
2)Repair battery short circuit in harness
between ECM and front oxygen (A/F) sensor
connector.
3)Turn ignition switch to ON.
4)Read data of front oxygen (A/F) sensor
heater current using Subaru Select Monitor or
the OBD-II general scan tool.
NOTE:
•Subaru Select Monitor
For detailed operation procedure, refer to the
“READ CURRENT DATA FOR ENGINE”.
<Ref. to EN(DOHC TURBO)-28, Subaru
Select Monitor.>
•OBD-II general scan tool
For detailed operation procedure, refer to the
OBD-II General Scan Tool Instruction Manual.
Is the value more than 2.3 A? Replace ECM.
<Ref. to FU(DOHC
TURBO)-45,
Engine Control
Module.>
END
3 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL FROM ECM.
Measure voltage between ECM connector and
chassis ground.
Connector & terminal
(B137) No. 4 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
(B137) No. 5 (+) — Chassis ground (−):
Does the voltage change more
than 8 V by shaking harness
and connector of ECM while
monitoring the value with voltage
meter?
Repair battery
short circuit in harness
between
ECM and front
oxygen (A/F) sensor
connector.
END
The connector for this is by the drivers side suspension strut under the bonnet and may or may not have a black plastic cover depending on the year of car.
If it turns out to be the sensor they're over £300 new, give David at API a ring as he can get hold of them for a hell of a lot less than that. I ended up buying a second hand one for mine (fault code was different though 31 - low input - heater shagged in the sensor) yours look more like a wiring problem or perhaps water in the plug?
Last edited by bugeyeandy; 01 January 2007 at 10:14 PM.
#7
This fault code was read of a 95 impreza, by counting the flashes of the CEL light. According to the litriture that i have code 32 is an oxygen sensor fault and 31 is for throttle position sensor. Is this information for a newer car?
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#9
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Originally Posted by -AL-
wots the other sensor then? the 1 in the manifold by drivers wheel?
It just depends what year car you have where the Lambda is situated.
Craig
#10
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iTrader: (2)
If it's only the heater element then the lambda should work OK but will take a little longer to get up to working temperature. The heater is there as an attempt to pre-heat the lambda sensor to working temperature when the car/engine is cold.
If it's the signal wire that is at fault, they normally supply an incorrect voltage which will cause the car to run rich or lean. They normally fail to a rich running condition.
The lambda is only used during closed loop fuel control i.e less than 3,000rpm (approx) and less that 0psi boost. So basically, when driving hard it isn't used so not a problem.
The safest way to run with a faulty lambda is just to disconnect it from the loom. The ECU will then run open loop control and use the fuelling defined in the fuel base map. This will run fine and infact will probably be slightly smoother, but it may not get through an MOT like this.
If it's the signal wire that is at fault, they normally supply an incorrect voltage which will cause the car to run rich or lean. They normally fail to a rich running condition.
The lambda is only used during closed loop fuel control i.e less than 3,000rpm (approx) and less that 0psi boost. So basically, when driving hard it isn't used so not a problem.
The safest way to run with a faulty lambda is just to disconnect it from the loom. The ECU will then run open loop control and use the fuelling defined in the fuel base map. This will run fine and infact will probably be slightly smoother, but it may not get through an MOT like this.
#11
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Originally Posted by Heple
The Lambda Sensor (i.e Oxygen Sensor/O2 Sensor) is in the up-pipe (behind the drivers side wheel) on pre face-lift models but on face lift models it has been moved to the top of the downpipe just behind the turbo.
It just depends what year car you have where the Lambda is situated.
Craig
It just depends what year car you have where the Lambda is situated.
Craig
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