V5/6 head failure
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V5/6 head failure
Hi,
I'm going to be strapping a pair of V6 heads onto my 257. I've been on the phone to someone regarding working the heads (chambers matched to 2.5/port/polish) and have been advised that V5/6 heads are not the best suited for the job. They recommended getting a set of V3/4 heads due to the later ones cracking between the sparkplug and exh. valves.
Has anyone had any experience with failures on these heads? I'm on a fairly tight budget and dont want to have to go source another set of heads/manifold etc.
Engine will be a built 2.5 with a 20g for competition.
Doug.
I'm going to be strapping a pair of V6 heads onto my 257. I've been on the phone to someone regarding working the heads (chambers matched to 2.5/port/polish) and have been advised that V5/6 heads are not the best suited for the job. They recommended getting a set of V3/4 heads due to the later ones cracking between the sparkplug and exh. valves.
Has anyone had any experience with failures on these heads? I'm on a fairly tight budget and dont want to have to go source another set of heads/manifold etc.
Engine will be a built 2.5 with a 20g for competition.
Doug.
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I would have agreed entirely, were it not for the fact that I was witness to 2 seperate sets of v5 heads being stripped from engines and both had little cracks that warrented them being binned.
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hhhmmm, both cars were on the happy side of 350, 1 at 40k miles and 1 at about 50k miles.
Both had seen track time and more than a few shots up the strip.
But if you had a tuned motor you would be using it in this fashion anyway? so a normal useage etc applys.
Interestingly, I stripped back some v1-2 heads that had seen hard 158,000 kms and the heads were tip top ready to re-use
Both had seen track time and more than a few shots up the strip.
But if you had a tuned motor you would be using it in this fashion anyway? so a normal useage etc applys.
Interestingly, I stripped back some v1-2 heads that had seen hard 158,000 kms and the heads were tip top ready to re-use
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My heads are cracked, they were cracked a long time ago, and haven't been a problem. I would be nice to not have cracks, but hey ho, I can't afford new heads every 6 months.
V3/4 heads would require a new inlet manifold and opens up a generally sizeable can of worms. What ECU are you going to run?
V3/4 heads would require a new inlet manifold and opens up a generally sizeable can of worms. What ECU are you going to run?
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I heard that v1 sti heads arent that great, allegedly the v1-2 RA heads are better but 3/4 onwards is where the fun starts to kick in.
my own v5 heads on my last car were fantastic!
my own v5 heads on my last car were fantastic!
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Andy, on the left on mine but think Paul mentioned the earlier ones are on the right?? Can get you a pic of mine later on if you want...(dash out so everything exposed...ish)
Sticking with the Apexi. A motec would be nice but its not an option. Gearbox 1st.
My main aim for concern is reliability. The bottom end should be fine. LP rods, mahle pistons, race bearings, cometic etc. Even the bores at the moment are perfect. Still showing previous honing marks and +.002 clearance for pistons. (.001-.003 required). Putting it together myself (1st time doing a rebuild myslef ) providing there are no issues fitting the bearings/crank.
The only reason i'm getting the heads done/chambers matched for the 2.5 is to keep it together, and hopefully produce a better/smother/responsive engine. Was contemplating doing the ports myself (matched to gasket/polish/knife edge) and the inlet manifold/t.b etc.
I dont want to spend £500+ getting the chambers done if the heads are going to be thrown in the bin after a couple of seasons.....On the other hand i dont want the expense of new heads/manifold and the rest that goes with it.....
RCM advised changing to ver3/4 when i spoke to them about getting the heads done. £550+vat for opening up the the chambers and £600+vat for port/polish which is a bit more than i'm intending on spending on heads for a 20g 2.5.
Also looking into the possibility getting the block/heads ringed (like wills rings in an imp engine) but RCM dont do them for an open deck (semi) and dont know anyone that does....
Email sent to SMG for advice/headwork/rings.
Sticking with the Apexi. A motec would be nice but its not an option. Gearbox 1st.
My main aim for concern is reliability. The bottom end should be fine. LP rods, mahle pistons, race bearings, cometic etc. Even the bores at the moment are perfect. Still showing previous honing marks and +.002 clearance for pistons. (.001-.003 required). Putting it together myself (1st time doing a rebuild myslef ) providing there are no issues fitting the bearings/crank.
The only reason i'm getting the heads done/chambers matched for the 2.5 is to keep it together, and hopefully produce a better/smother/responsive engine. Was contemplating doing the ports myself (matched to gasket/polish/knife edge) and the inlet manifold/t.b etc.
I dont want to spend £500+ getting the chambers done if the heads are going to be thrown in the bin after a couple of seasons.....On the other hand i dont want the expense of new heads/manifold and the rest that goes with it.....
RCM advised changing to ver3/4 when i spoke to them about getting the heads done. £550+vat for opening up the the chambers and £600+vat for port/polish which is a bit more than i'm intending on spending on heads for a 20g 2.5.
Also looking into the possibility getting the block/heads ringed (like wills rings in an imp engine) but RCM dont do them for an open deck (semi) and dont know anyone that does....
Email sent to SMG for advice/headwork/rings.
Last edited by doug2507; 14 August 2006 at 05:55 PM.
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SMG do porting for much less money than you quote above!
looking into compatibility of your ecu and my loom etc as well, as per other thread
unless you can pull out your loom into the bargain?
looking into compatibility of your ecu and my loom etc as well, as per other thread
unless you can pull out your loom into the bargain?
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Had a look at that the other day for Graham but its a BIG job. The loom for the dccd ecu goes into the main loom so separating the wires would be too much of a headache. After studying my pdf making a new loom doesnt look that hard tbh. Its all fairly simple stuff, even for a numpty like myself...
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In what respect.?
I'd be willing to send it down to you to try out if there are any suspected issues.
Would think it would be generic throughout the classics but thats just a guess....
I'd be willing to send it down to you to try out if there are any suspected issues.
Would think it would be generic throughout the classics but thats just a guess....
Last edited by doug2507; 14 August 2006 at 02:51 PM.
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Paul, i've just had a look through J.B's 2.5 thread (for the hundredth time!) for a guide as to what works and what doesnt.
The rings idea is right out the window as i'm using a cometic gasket. (1.6). Whats the best way for ensuring that the block and heads are flat as can be? For measuring, do i just take measurements off as many points of the block face/heads as i can?
Quite happy to have my V6 heads done now after a bit of research. Theyve done 65k now with no sign of any problem. If they crack, they crack.
I'm on a steep learning curve at the moment so any usefull advice would be appreciated.
Btw, i noticed what i can only describe as what looks like a birth mark about 1/3-1/2 way down one of the bores. Scored my nail over it and couldnt even feel it. If you know what i mean, whats caused it?
The rings idea is right out the window as i'm using a cometic gasket. (1.6). Whats the best way for ensuring that the block and heads are flat as can be? For measuring, do i just take measurements off as many points of the block face/heads as i can?
Quite happy to have my V6 heads done now after a bit of research. Theyve done 65k now with no sign of any problem. If they crack, they crack.
I'm on a steep learning curve at the moment so any usefull advice would be appreciated.
Btw, i noticed what i can only describe as what looks like a birth mark about 1/3-1/2 way down one of the bores. Scored my nail over it and couldnt even feel it. If you know what i mean, whats caused it?
#20
Doug,
Only just caught up on this thread, can't help regards the choice of heads but if you're needing any physical help give me a shout. I live just around the corner from you and I'm giving serious thought to 2.5'ing my STI V3. Wouldn't mind having a look at your car/engine while it's in bits. My plans had been to use the new 2.5 short block and my V3 engine as a donor. Having run my car on the rolling road in Ellon at the SIDC day I think the V3 heads/cams may be somewhat wild for the 2.5 lump. I managed 326 bhp @ 7,500 rpm and that's the standard engine with a decat and k&n - I suspect running max bhp @ 7,500 rpm wouldn't suit the 2.5 lump, anything you've read that might shed some light on this?
Only just caught up on this thread, can't help regards the choice of heads but if you're needing any physical help give me a shout. I live just around the corner from you and I'm giving serious thought to 2.5'ing my STI V3. Wouldn't mind having a look at your car/engine while it's in bits. My plans had been to use the new 2.5 short block and my V3 engine as a donor. Having run my car on the rolling road in Ellon at the SIDC day I think the V3 heads/cams may be somewhat wild for the 2.5 lump. I managed 326 bhp @ 7,500 rpm and that's the standard engine with a decat and k&n - I suspect running max bhp @ 7,500 rpm wouldn't suit the 2.5 lump, anything you've read that might shed some light on this?
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Originally Posted by Kevin Groat
Doug,
Having run my car on the rolling road in Ellon at the SIDC day I think the V3 heads/cams may be somewhat wild for the 2.5 lump. I managed 326 bhp @ 7,500 rpm and that's the standard engine with a decat and k&n - I suspect running max bhp @ 7,500 rpm wouldn't suit the 2.5 lump, anything you've read that might shed some light on this?
Having run my car on the rolling road in Ellon at the SIDC day I think the V3 heads/cams may be somewhat wild for the 2.5 lump. I managed 326 bhp @ 7,500 rpm and that's the standard engine with a decat and k&n - I suspect running max bhp @ 7,500 rpm wouldn't suit the 2.5 lump, anything you've read that might shed some light on this?
Don't forget the 2.5lt is 25% bigger.
Mark.
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Kevin, where abouts are you? Feel free to come round if you want, the kettles always on. Away abroad on Sat afternoon till ~Oct sometime though. Splitting the block tonight which should be interesting....
Back on the subject of heads....there doesnt seem to be much metal between the valves. How are o/s valves fitted? Offset?
What sort of C.R should i be looking to achieve with this engine? (new v-max a consideration?)
Back on the subject of heads....there doesnt seem to be much metal between the valves. How are o/s valves fitted? Offset?
What sort of C.R should i be looking to achieve with this engine? (new v-max a consideration?)
Last edited by doug2507; 15 August 2006 at 12:27 PM.
#24
Doug, I'm in Logierieve - the old Smiddy. The STi v3 is a white wagon and we've a blue Legacy GTB as well. Is your car in the garage at the house? I know roughly whereabouts, which number is it?
Don't know if I'll manage tonight as I've a golf electric window to sort
Don't know if I'll manage tonight as I've a golf electric window to sort
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Ah...drove by the other day and saw you tinkering on it with the bonet up. Lovely looking wagon! Number 6 mate. Think there's a bloomin big caravan sitting outside the neighbours for reference. Just give us a shout if you're gonna pop your head in. Should be in all week.
Cars round the back of the house. Had to shuffle some stuff around the garage just to fit the engine/myself in!
Cars round the back of the house. Had to shuffle some stuff around the garage just to fit the engine/myself in!
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Many V5 V6 STi heads I have seen have a crack from the plug hole to the valve seat. About 50%. First time I saw this and the head was replaced. A short time after the head came off again and although it was a new casting there was a crack in one of the combustion chambers again. I then found this was a common problem, probably an inherrent / manufacturing fault and as long as the crack is not too bad affecting the valve seat the engine seems to perform OK.
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