Big ends
#2
Scooby Regular
The crank has to come out to get to the shells properly so no.. On a standard straight engine you could remove the gearbox, cambelt, sump, un-bolt the caps from the conrods and crank then drop the crank.. Bit of a pig on the flat four in situte.
Also simply replacing the shells is only temporary fix, if the shells are worn then the crank will no doubt be worn too, and if you've spun a shell then your wasting your time just replacing them.
Also simply replacing the shells is only temporary fix, if the shells are worn then the crank will no doubt be worn too, and if you've spun a shell then your wasting your time just replacing them.
#4
You can get to the big end bearings without taking the engine out of the car. I know it can be done on a classic atleast cause ive done it. Your gonna want the car pretty high though to be comfortable.
As said above though there might be more wrong than just the shells.
You should be able to do it with the car on axlestands though.
If its gonna be up for any lenght of time you should support the front of the car cause the body twist is quite bad with axle stands under both jacking points.
One problem ive had in the past is the oil ways in the crank blocking up when they are dry while you do the work. Some say drain the oil and run a flushing oil before you start. Ohers say drain the oil and fill the car with parafin the night before you start? Im not too sure what affect this would have on the seals. Im not too keen on that one!
It could be that you already have a blocked oil way and thats why the big end bearing is gone?
Why does the crank have to come out to get big end shells on. They go on either side and the con rod is fitted around them? Are you thinking of main bearings?
As said above though there might be more wrong than just the shells.
You should be able to do it with the car on axlestands though.
If its gonna be up for any lenght of time you should support the front of the car cause the body twist is quite bad with axle stands under both jacking points.
One problem ive had in the past is the oil ways in the crank blocking up when they are dry while you do the work. Some say drain the oil and run a flushing oil before you start. Ohers say drain the oil and fill the car with parafin the night before you start? Im not too sure what affect this would have on the seals. Im not too keen on that one!
It could be that you already have a blocked oil way and thats why the big end bearing is gone?
Why does the crank have to come out to get big end shells on. They go on either side and the con rod is fitted around them? Are you thinking of main bearings?
Last edited by thedeester1; 09 April 2006 at 06:00 PM.
#6
Scooby Regular
no way you can do this in the car...............heads have to come off to split the c/cases to gain access to the mains................
good luck trying though..................
good luck trying though..................
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#8
We started on the big end and got mixed up.
To sumerise you can change the big end shells in the car but you dont know what else is wrong and caused them to wear.
A magician couldnt change the mains in the car. It probably possible if you really wana argue the toss but its more than a bit impracticle!
To sumerise you can change the big end shells in the car but you dont know what else is wrong and caused them to wear.
A magician couldnt change the mains in the car. It probably possible if you really wana argue the toss but its more than a bit impracticle!
#10
Its possble but i think we got a bit carried away. The question was can they be done without stripping the engine. In that case you would need some serious matter transfer technology. JK
#11
Scooby Regular
If you drained most of the oil and went for a flat out blast on your favorite A road I'm sure they would either be spat from the crank or melt into nothing... Hmm now how to get the new ones in??..
#14
Sorry to be rude but it wouldnt be worth a whole lot to me. Since the big end failure could lead to having a new crank or liners or rings (or all of the above) the expence wouldnt be worth it to me. Sorry.
#18
If i had a decent work shop id take it for 300 quid but at the moment i dont even have a garage. Every time i ramp the car or lift the bonnet if freeking rains. I dont think re-building this in my kitchen would go down so well...lol
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