joekont

I tried a while ago but after 30 minutes I hadn't gotten anywhere..

Any ideas? Is there an easy way apart from taking the engine out??

STI5300

iTrader: (4)

The easiest way which involves less swearing is to do them from underneath with the car on wheel ramps.

vindaloo

2 ways I've heard discussed... Too chicken to do it myself until now.

2xsparkplug sockets, one on top of the other, then a regular socket driver on the top.
2xbendy links on top of the sparkplug socket then the driver.


IMO if you can get the right length sockets, the first idea is better as there's less chance of putting odd loads on the plug.


J.

BLACK V5

Remove airbox and washer reservoir. That will give you a bit more room.
All the same its a pain in the a##. Just an awkward job. Not sure there is an easy way. But if you can do it yourself it saves paying someone else.

joekont

The biggest problem is the chassis rails are in the way.

I haven't got an airbox so thats not a problem.

I tried on the front left (looking at the car) and managed to get a plug socket on the plug but couldn't get the ratchet on the extension bar....


Someone did say there was a special tool available...
Any gen??

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

As said above, remove the airbox and the washer res from the passenger side, i usually remove the battery as well just because of the risk of the terminals contacting again whilst removed.

I then use a 3/8ths spark plug socket with the rubber boot removed, other wise i find it a PITA to get the plug into the socket, on the end of that is a 3/8ths to quarter inch adaptor then a quarter back to 3/8ths adaptor then a universal joint, this gives you just about the right depth to get into the hole in the head and still fit a 3/8ths ratchet inbetween the head and the chassis rail.

If its the first time you have done this take your time and dont force the plug socket into the heads, i once tried it with my quarter inch plug socket and got the socket stuck in the head!

All this is done from the top of the car, have tried from the top and underneath and found this the easyest least knuckle grinding way, just needs a few extra things removed.

Dan.

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Yep from on top only takes me about 45mins now to do the four,But as said you must use 3/8th drive tools.

joekont

OK.
I'll try that.

I've got a ZX7R aswell as the scoob so I've got small tools for that..

SCOOBY TOWERS

iTrader: (7)

Not 100% correct - I changed mine last week and I only used 1/2" drive tools.
You just need a few different sized extension bars and a ratchet without a release button on the back.

joekont

I've got Snap On ratchets..

I'll have another go....

SCOOBY TOWERS

iTrader: (7)

LOL - Its the varying sized extensions that help.

Also if your spark plug socket has a rubber "holder" built into it, squirt a bit of WD40 onto it so it doesn't hold onto the plug too tightly.

I also find its better to wind the plug in by hand then just nip it up with the socket at the end - makes sure its not cross threaded.

Northern Scoob

i changed mine the other week - first time on a scoob - looks daunting but it took me an hour - in the snow!! (not snowing just inches deep )

as you look at the engine i started on the passenger side, remove the bolts that hold the washer bottle and move out the way - not sure if you have coil packs same as mine? (my93?) i just loosened these with a 12? pos 13 mil spanner - then removed with fingers i found it easier to put the socket and small extension in before attaching my ratchet (3/8)

drivers side just remove the airbox and the metal bracket that it rests on access is same as other side

i reckon i could do it in half the time if i were to do it again

hth

Phil

Brit_in_Japan

Pretty much same advice. May be possible with 1/2" drives, but easier with 3/8".

Remove airbox (where applicable) and washer bottle to give better access.

A "wobbly" extension to fit the plug socket is useful. What I mean is an extension bar which fits rigidly at the socket in, but which is wobbly at the plug socket end. Don't know how to describe it properly. I borrowed one from a Subaru specialist here in Japan to do the ones on the washer bottle side, other side was easier.

You should be able to screw in and unscrew largely by hand with a socket needed to nip it up and uncrack it. There are supposed to be torque setting for the plugs, but God knows how you can get enough access for a torque wrench unless you drop the engine

[Davey]

Tis' a wobble bar

No need to torque spark plugs, thats for the **** brigade, but they will still be in the shed trying to get oil to soak through the oil filter and reading the latest copy of Combustion Engine Monthly.

Best advice I would offer (and as others have mentioned) get a nice little set of various length 3/8th extension bars.

GlenBec

As a member of the "**** bigade", I would have to disagree with you. Spark plugs need to transfer heat to the cylinder head to operate in the correct heat range, and correct heat transfer is accomplished when the plug is tightened to specification. If the plug is undertorqued the gasket is not crushed enough and if it is overtorqued you run the risk of thread damage in the head. I have seen many cars with the plugs loose and losing compression past the threads. With the right tools plugs can be torqued relatively easily. Spec is 20lb/ft. Now escuse me as I get back to my copy of Combustion Engine Monthly.

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040215395

This kit works well, never failed me.

Only use the ratchet for the 1st element on undoing, and then by hand. When re installing the plugs, do by hand, and then just a final tighten with the ratchet.

scoobynutta555

Would this kit be suyitable for a my00 Impreza uk turbo? Will there be a need for 'double' socketing or flexi extensions that I've seen mentioned elsewhere?

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

Its what i have in my tool box, and i have changed plugs on every phase of engine, my own originally a MY00.

In short YES