FMIC/TMIC/headers
22 January 2006, 09:01 PM
#1
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FMIC/TMIC/headers
hello,
does anyone knows if a my02 larger TMIC or a my02 FMIC fits in a my98?
what's best, larger TMIC, FMIC or headers?
thanks in advance for the help.
does anyone knows if a my02 larger TMIC or a my02 FMIC fits in a my98?
what's best, larger TMIC, FMIC or headers?
thanks in advance for the help.
23 January 2006, 07:15 AM
#2
What are your aims?
Any one of those items in isolation won't give you any particular gain on a stock (UK?) turbo.
If you want the look, then a FMIC will look great but do little on its own unless you track day it in the summer when it will keep things cooler and sustain the power longer.
The larger TMIC will do the same, but not sure if it is a bolt-on or would need some local cut and weld.
The tube headers on their own will do little and might take away the mid range torque and push the power slightly to the top end.
Out of all these on a stock engine I would do none of them, but if you want to improve the engine spend a little more on
Apexi FC ecu with a good mapper mapped for Optimax (£750)
Gas flowed stock cast headers from Harvey (£100 I think)
That will set you up for further mods later. The IC's will be needed as you add a bigger/better turbo such as a TD05 16g or 18g and bigger injectors etc.
Also remember the car will get to B from A faster with a better chassis that will be worth a lot more than a tweeked engine in a stock chassis.
Just my thoughts.
Graham.
Any one of those items in isolation won't give you any particular gain on a stock (UK?) turbo.
If you want the look, then a FMIC will look great but do little on its own unless you track day it in the summer when it will keep things cooler and sustain the power longer.
The larger TMIC will do the same, but not sure if it is a bolt-on or would need some local cut and weld.
The tube headers on their own will do little and might take away the mid range torque and push the power slightly to the top end.
Out of all these on a stock engine I would do none of them, but if you want to improve the engine spend a little more on
Apexi FC ecu with a good mapper mapped for Optimax (£750)
Gas flowed stock cast headers from Harvey (£100 I think)
That will set you up for further mods later. The IC's will be needed as you add a bigger/better turbo such as a TD05 16g or 18g and bigger injectors etc.
Also remember the car will get to B from A faster with a better chassis that will be worth a lot more than a tweeked engine in a stock chassis.
Just my thoughts.
Graham.
23 January 2006, 12:40 PM
#4
An STI7 intercooler is a good mod to make, need a bit of bending swearing and fabrication to get it in, also should get hold of the diffuser underneath and you can get a bigger bonnet scoop, which looks s**t imho but helps. You will notice a difference with this, but for best effect it needs re-mapped as 911 says. They can be picked up cheap 2nd hand.
Headers are the same situation, but you can get your own ones ported for about 50quid.
STI7 intercooler, ported headers + power fc, or even a ecutek remap on a 98 would be a good cheap set of mods I think.
Sorry just noticed about the porting, maybe it is about £100. don't remember.
Dave
Headers are the same situation, but you can get your own ones ported for about 50quid.
STI7 intercooler, ported headers + power fc, or even a ecutek remap on a 98 would be a good cheap set of mods I think.
Sorry just noticed about the porting, maybe it is about £100. don't remember.
Dave
23 January 2006, 12:53 PM
#5
cmp:
For a good road/daily driver with good condition suspension:
20mm lower Eibach springs all round
camber bolts all round
ALK
22 mm Whiteline antiroll bar and steel/allot drop links set on middle hole
Aligned by an expert ie Powerstation
Good tyres ie Toyo @ 32 30 psi Fr/Rr
When that has satisfied you (takes about 3 months max) you will be ready to do some serious stuff as you will realise a good chassis is the priority, then the brakes, then the engine (I left out the brakes stage for good reasons on my car).
Last time I read that Harvey's ported headers are about £100 and that API Engines are doing them now too.
Graham.
For a good road/daily driver with good condition suspension:
20mm lower Eibach springs all round
camber bolts all round
ALK
22 mm Whiteline antiroll bar and steel/allot drop links set on middle hole
Aligned by an expert ie Powerstation
Good tyres ie Toyo @ 32 30 psi Fr/Rr
When that has satisfied you (takes about 3 months max) you will be ready to do some serious stuff as you will realise a good chassis is the priority, then the brakes, then the engine (I left out the brakes stage for good reasons on my car).
Last time I read that Harvey's ported headers are about £100 and that API Engines are doing them now too.
Graham.
23 January 2006, 04:55 PM
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ok, thanks for your help.
I have to think very well, because here in Portugal, due to street racing, almost all mods are "illegal".
on the other day, 50 cars were inpounded ( I think this is the word ), some only had air intakes...
Graham, you don' mention strut braces, are those a 2nd stage of chassis tuning?
I have been looking for the whiteline ARB, but had no answer from the dealer's... can you tell me some?
I have to think very well, because here in Portugal, due to street racing, almost all mods are "illegal".
on the other day, 50 cars were inpounded ( I think this is the word ), some only had air intakes...
Graham, you don' mention strut braces, are those a 2nd stage of chassis tuning?
I have been looking for the whiteline ARB, but had no answer from the dealer's... can you tell me some?
23 January 2006, 06:23 PM
#7
For me Brace bars come later on when the suspension is very stiff, that is no rubber bushes and stick tyres.
As to Whiteline, if you contact then bt email, there is about a 24 hour delay from them, but then the response is very good.
I bought all my stuff direct from them in Austrailia.
As your English is very good, try contacting Rich at Powerstation for Whiteline parts.
Graham.
As to Whiteline, if you contact then bt email, there is about a 24 hour delay from them, but then the response is very good.
I bought all my stuff direct from them in Austrailia.
As your English is very good, try contacting Rich at Powerstation for Whiteline parts.
Graham.
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24 January 2006, 08:44 AM
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ok, thanks again.
just another question, with only a turbo back exhaust and dawes at 1,2 bar, wich do you prefer, a panel filter or induction kit?
just another question, with only a turbo back exhaust and dawes at 1,2 bar, wich do you prefer, a panel filter or induction kit?
24 January 2006, 09:23 AM
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Panel filter, it seems its a good idea to make the car look standard, an uprated panel filter is good for over 300HP, some say up to 350HP
24 January 2006, 12:42 PM
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I rad the oem air box limits the bhp to 300... I was thinking in using a bmc or green panel filter...
with one of this filters, turbo back exhaust, bigger turbo, remap ( with new ecu or piggy-back ) and perhaps a larger tmic... what figures ( bhp ) can I expect?
the only thing the cops can see, not oem, is the exhaust, but I think that's not a problem, only engine bay mods...
with one of this filters, turbo back exhaust, bigger turbo, remap ( with new ecu or piggy-back ) and perhaps a larger tmic... what figures ( bhp ) can I expect?
the only thing the cops can see, not oem, is the exhaust, but I think that's not a problem, only engine bay mods...