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misfire between 1000rpm and 2000 rpm??

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Old 22 January 2006, 05:02 PM
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stiginger
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Default misfire between 1000rpm and 2000 rpm??

my subaru turbo 2000 is misfiring betwwen 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm its lumpey on tick over and the car starts jumping when pulling off and when i give it some in 3rd gear it starts to judder like hell like the boost is cutting out i have cheked the air filter and all the air lines they seem to be fine.. what could be the problem
Old 22 January 2006, 05:09 PM
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Sounds like a failing MAF, but could be a lot of things.

What year/model is the car?
What mods have you done, if any?

Paul
Old 23 January 2006, 10:45 AM
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turbo 2000
99 model
k/n induction kit prodrive back box and a baileys dump valve
the engine is out of a p1
Old 23 January 2006, 11:04 AM
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get rid of the POS bailey dump valve and your problems will more than likely "fix themselves". If not, try a new maf, and still do not refit the bailey dump valve.
Old 23 January 2006, 11:14 AM
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When was the last full service?
Old 23 January 2006, 12:22 PM
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stiginger
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i changed the oil plus filter and cleaned the k/n when i fitted the engine 3 weeks ago all was fine for a bout a week then thse problems started and the check engine light aint come
Old 23 January 2006, 01:01 PM
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check for air leaks, GET RID OF THE BAILEY DUMP VALVE, and see if you can try another known good MAF sensor.

Do you think I am joking about the dump valve?
Old 23 January 2006, 03:26 PM
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no mate i dont think your joking im just trying to source a standerd dv now and then try that fingers crossed
Old 23 January 2006, 03:30 PM
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there were a few on ebay.
Old 25 January 2006, 12:34 PM
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checked the spark plugs and 1 was a grey/white colour is this normal
Old 25 January 2006, 12:37 PM
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they should look pretty clean the plugs. If it's grey, covered with metalic depostis, that suggests a melted piston. But if it's just white and clean on the insulator, with slightly greying of the electrode, with no grey on the outside of the plug nose that's fine.

Paul
Old 28 January 2006, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by stiginger
i changed the oil plus filter and cleaned the k/n when i fitted the engine 3 weeks ago all was fine for a bout a week then thse problems started and the check engine light aint come
Ok, two likely candidates.
Do you know how to set the correct oil level using the hot/cold markers on the dipstick? If you overfilled it (level is up above the top vee notch when hot) then you may have pushed oil into the waste gate solenoid. It can be removed and cleaned - do a search on it.
Fill to just above lower HOLE in stick, then run it for a minute, stop & top up to same level. Drive it up to running temp and stop engine & recheck. Fill to the top hole, this will do just fine. Fill above the vee marker and you might have problems, the engine breather might push oil vapour into the solenoid as above.

Secondly you cleaned the K&N. Presumably you oiled it after?
I have seen problems with K&N filter oil contaminating the MAF (and similar) sensors in a very short time on other cars. Just a thought....

good luck!
Old 28 January 2006, 12:13 AM
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Lightbulb

This may help if it works on your model. Just lifted from another thread -thanks Simon
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++
check the error codes yourself

ECU Reset and Error codes

Turn OFF the ignition

Connect Error code Connectors :
2 black connectors under dash, connect black to black, they are by your left knee when sat in the drivers seat and often taped back to the loom if they haven't been used before.

Turn ON ignition but don't start the engine

Check engine light error code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If an error is detected then Check the ECU Code

An Error Code is indicated by a flashing check engine light
of varying length of flash,
a flash of around once a second is the okay code and indicates all is well.

If an error code is detected Check the ECU Code


Error Codes

An Error code is defined as a slow flash followed by fast flash
i.e 2 slow and 3 fast = 23 Mass Airflow sensor.
A continuous on/off at the same speed is no fault found.


Code Fault
11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 Starter switch

13 Camshaft position sensor

21 Engine coolant temperature sensor

22 Knock sensor

23 Mass air flow sensor

24 Idle air control solenoid

31 Throttle position sensor

32 Oxygen sensor

33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

35 Purge control solenoid valve

42 Idle switch

44 Wastegate control solenoid valve

45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve

51 Neutral position switch

Simon
Old 28 January 2006, 12:26 PM
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hi just put black plugs together and the following happend turned on ignition and it flashed slow once then flashed 3 times fast so im gesing thats 13 then it flashed twice again slow then 4 times fast so im gesing thats 24 then it flashed slow 3 times and 1 quick flash so that must be 31 so does that meen 3 sensors are gone and how can i recet my ecu????????
Old 28 January 2006, 03:30 PM
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code 13=crankshaft sensor

code 24=air control valve

code 31=thottle position sensor,

to rest the ecu,join all 4 connecters 2 black 2 green

turn ignition on (dont start)

youll hear thing s clicking e.t.c

depress the throttle,hold for 2 secs,bring uo to half way hold for 2 secs.

release thottle, and start the car,drive very sensible and keep the revs above 1500rpm, when you see the cel flashing at a steady pace the ecu has reset it self,pull over engine off and disconnect the plugs and then dirve sensible for around 50 miles while the ecu learns the way you drive and then everything should be ok
Old 29 January 2006, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by stiginger
hi just put black plugs together and the following happend turned on ignition and it flashed slow once then flashed 3 times fast so im gesing thats 13 then it flashed twice again slow then 4 times fast so im gesing thats 24 then it flashed slow 3 times and 1 quick flash so that must be 31 so does that meen 3 sensors are gone and how can i recet my ecu????????
Not necessarily. Some may be thrown up during small hiccups and may have been there for some time. Do the reset (or yank the power off from the battery for half hour doeas the same thing). Then interrogate the system again and see whats new.

Im not familiar with these particular EM fault codes, but it is possible to get a cascade of errors. I.E, one small fault may throw up a chain of others as a result. Do a reset and look again soon....

Good luck, can be frustrating eh?
Old 29 January 2006, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by M1BJR
Not necessarily. Some may be thrown up during small hiccups and may have been there for some time. Do the reset (or yank the power off from the battery for half hour doeas the same thing). Then interrogate the system again and see whats new.

Im not familiar with these particular EM fault codes, but it is possible to get a cascade of errors. I.E, one small fault may throw up a chain of others as a result. Do a reset and look again soon....

Good luck, can be frustrating eh?
it can be very frustrating but since i have reset the ecu the engine has gone alot smoother
i had a noise that sounded like bottom end nock but since the reset that has gone dont no how but it has gone what could of been causing that chhers for all your help lads
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