Help! Downpipe fitting - stuck!!!
28 December 2005, 01:13 PM
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Help! Downpipe fitting - stuck!!!
Hi All,
I've bought myself a DP as an xmas prezzie to myself
... But ...
Although I had no problem fitting a downpipe to my first (Classic) scoob, this one (MY01) looks like it is going to be a PITA
I decided to make sure I could separate the DP from the center cat before pulling the intercooler out... Glad I did, as the joint between the cats looks odd...
See pic:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe1.jpg
It has a 'normal' nut and bolt on the one side (the bottom on on the above pic) - although it won't budge, and the nut has rounded a bit!
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe2.jpg
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe3.jpg
But on the other side of the flange (top in first pic) seems like a threaded rod, but with only a nut on the DP side:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe4.jpg
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe5.jpg
Do any of you experts out there know if this is how it should be, or if someone has been messing around with the exhaust previously?
I'm tempted to just take a grinder to both of the nuts, and hope it will come apart, but don't want to burn any bridges!
I'm worried that maybe there are threads in the center cat flange, and cutting it off may screw me over... Otherwise what is currently holding the cats together?
Please can someone who has fitted a DP to a newage WRX let me know how this joint is supposed to look, and whether any of the flanges are threaded?
Please help, as I have a few more days off work, and I wanna get my turbo whistling out of the exhaust!!!
I've bought myself a DP as an xmas prezzie to myself
... But ...
Although I had no problem fitting a downpipe to my first (Classic) scoob, this one (MY01) looks like it is going to be a PITA
I decided to make sure I could separate the DP from the center cat before pulling the intercooler out... Glad I did, as the joint between the cats looks odd...
See pic:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe1.jpg
It has a 'normal' nut and bolt on the one side (the bottom on on the above pic) - although it won't budge, and the nut has rounded a bit!
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe2.jpg
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe3.jpg
But on the other side of the flange (top in first pic) seems like a threaded rod, but with only a nut on the DP side:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe4.jpg
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/Downpipe5.jpg
Do any of you experts out there know if this is how it should be, or if someone has been messing around with the exhaust previously?
I'm tempted to just take a grinder to both of the nuts, and hope it will come apart, but don't want to burn any bridges!
I'm worried that maybe there are threads in the center cat flange, and cutting it off may screw me over... Otherwise what is currently holding the cats together?
Please can someone who has fitted a DP to a newage WRX let me know how this joint is supposed to look, and whether any of the flanges are threaded?
Please help, as I have a few more days off work, and I wanna get my turbo whistling out of the exhaust!!!
28 December 2005, 03:01 PM
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Thanks jjones... I'll try that again now that the WD40 has had more time to soak in.
What about the other side of the flange (pics 4,5)? This side doesn't even have a bolt... - Just what looks like a threaded rod.
What is holding this side together? Is that side of the flange threaded, or perhaps the nut is also tacked, and there was a nut on the other side which has gone missing???
I hope next time I try to shift the bolt it gives, cos I've already tried an air wrench for a few mins, and it doesn't want to know!
What about the other side of the flange (pics 4,5)? This side doesn't even have a bolt... - Just what looks like a threaded rod.
What is holding this side together? Is that side of the flange threaded, or perhaps the nut is also tacked, and there was a nut on the other side which has gone missing???
I hope next time I try to shift the bolt it gives, cos I've already tried an air wrench for a few mins, and it doesn't want to know!
28 December 2005, 05:15 PM
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Had the same prob seem's to be common hastle,if i remember i cut the nut and bolt off first then seperated the cat section from the centre pipe as well,which meant i found the cat would turn back and forth pivoting on the remaining stud.It came loose this way so i could see what type of fixing was left after it was loose.To long ago to remember that bit though.One tip once it's off use copper grease on new bolt's help's to stop it doing it again.
Mike...
Mike...
28 December 2005, 07:14 PM
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Thanks Gunner. Do you remember if either of the nuts were welded to the flange?
I think I'll probably have another crack at it tomorrow if it isn't so cold outside! Brrrrr
I think I'll probably have another crack at it tomorrow if it isn't so cold outside! Brrrrr
28 December 2005, 08:09 PM
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I'm sure this has been asked before..... and as i recall the nuts were lose, ie, one on one side and one on the other..... if you can't budge them, try to get a grinder in and just grind down one side to relieve the tension on the stud, at least that way the stud itself may be re-usable if it needs to be, you'll need new nuts anyway!! Sounds painful!
28 December 2005, 08:45 PM
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Right,i have just been out in my garage in the frezzzzzin cold for a bloke i don't know sorting through pile's of crap looking for my small cat pipe!!!! LOL
Anyway the hole in the catted end on that side is threaded,a stud was screwed into this then a nut screwed on to the opposite end holding the down pipe on. I remember now grinding off the nut and withdrawing the cat away from the downpipe,for me this worked as i had loosened the stud previously by twisting the cat back and forth.Once on the floor the stud unscrewed easily.If you are refitting this again just find a bolt the same threadsize and long enough to fit back together.There appeared to be no reason as to why it was fitted like this in the first place other than to **** us off. Are you not doing away with this cat then and replacing with straight through pipe?
Anyway the hole in the catted end on that side is threaded,a stud was screwed into this then a nut screwed on to the opposite end holding the down pipe on. I remember now grinding off the nut and withdrawing the cat away from the downpipe,for me this worked as i had loosened the stud previously by twisting the cat back and forth.Once on the floor the stud unscrewed easily.If you are refitting this again just find a bolt the same threadsize and long enough to fit back together.There appeared to be no reason as to why it was fitted like this in the first place other than to **** us off. Are you not doing away with this cat then and replacing with straight through pipe?
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28 December 2005, 09:14 PM
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There was a similar thread a while back....
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...light=downpipe
Search for "removing centre cat (NEWAGE) help!" if the link doesn't work.
It appears to be the same problem.... Can't say how useful the advice given is cause I've yet to give it a try myself but it might help.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...light=downpipe
Search for "removing centre cat (NEWAGE) help!" if the link doesn't work.
It appears to be the same problem.... Can't say how useful the advice given is cause I've yet to give it a try myself but it might help.
28 December 2005, 10:00 PM
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Awesome! Thanks very much for checking that out Gunner, top man! Plus thanks RON and Steve, I did do a few searches, but I guess i'm sh*te at finding what i'm after!
Gunner, i'm leaving the centre cat in place this time, as I don't really fancy swapping stuff around at MOT time (I just hope that the center is enough)!
I feel armed with the info I need now to go and sort the blighter out tomorrow!
Perhaps the good long soaking with WD40 will have penetrated the side with the good bolt head. But if not then I'll be grinding off both nuts!
So do you agree with this diagram of how the join is / where the threads are?
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram2.bmp
*** EDIT: After removing the pipe, I now know the join to be as:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram3.bmp
(paying attention to where the threaded flange hole is)
Cheers all,
James
Gunner, i'm leaving the centre cat in place this time, as I don't really fancy swapping stuff around at MOT time (I just hope that the center is enough)!
I feel armed with the info I need now to go and sort the blighter out tomorrow!
Perhaps the good long soaking with WD40 will have penetrated the side with the good bolt head. But if not then I'll be grinding off both nuts!
So do you agree with this diagram of how the join is / where the threads are?
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram2.bmp
*** EDIT: After removing the pipe, I now know the join to be as:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram3.bmp
(paying attention to where the threaded flange hole is)
Cheers all,
James
Last edited by James_PowerMad; 30 December 2005 at 01:02 AM.
28 December 2005, 10:17 PM
#11
That's a fiddly old job you got going on there 
I know I'm a little off topic but do you have to do the up pipe on a new age if you do the down ? only am I right in thinking there are 3 cats on a new age and one of these is in the up... by removing the down pipe one I got a feeling I was told the temperatures get so hot in the up pipe one they could cause it to break down and fragment.
I may be talking utter rubbish but something sticks in my mind around a conversation I had on this subject a while back
Simon
I know I'm a little off topic but do you have to do the up pipe on a new age if you do the down ? only am I right in thinking there are 3 cats on a new age and one of these is in the up... by removing the down pipe one I got a feeling I was told the temperatures get so hot in the up pipe one they could cause it to break down and fragment.
I may be talking utter rubbish but something sticks in my mind around a conversation I had on this subject a while back
Simon
28 December 2005, 10:36 PM
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Aghhhh!!! I hope not! I had never heard of this before. Bits of catalyst are the last things I want flying through the turbo!
Can I have a few more votes on this one!
Can I have a few more votes on this one!
28 December 2005, 10:41 PM
#13
Originally Posted by James_PowerMad
Aghhhh!!! I hope not! I had never heard of this before. Bits of catalyst are the last things I want flying through the turbo!
Can I have a few more votes on this one!
Can I have a few more votes on this one!
29 December 2005, 05:28 PM
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Right... Phew... Went over to the farm at about 11:30 this morning. Grinded off both nuts. Damaged the thread on the stud a bit in the process, and couldn't shift the stud (I tried locking 2 nuts on it). The threads seemed good enough though, so I pretended it never happened
BTW. Only one of the holes in the the centre cat flange is actually threaded. The one with the nut and bolt is luckily a plain hole.
Then on to the top side...
Intercooler came off no probs
Heatshield was a bit of a pain with all of those difficult to reach bolts!
Then I got a major shock!
Had heard stories of turbo nuts being bloody tight, so sprayed WD40 liberally, and left it over lunch...
Came back from lunch, and felt round all the nuts for screwing accessibility (ooo err!)
Bugger me if the one at the bottom (the arkward one) was actually about to drop off the end of the stud (it just spun off by hand!!!!!) It was literally not even tightened up to the end of the threads!!!
Then moved on to the rest, and although thankfully needing the socket drive to turn - they were not that tight at all! Moved really easily! I can't understand how the bloody thing can have sealed properly - although no obvious signs of leakage on the gasket.
Anyway, the old pipe dropped out nicely, and recovered both gaskets.
New pipe went in, although it doesn't seem to line up 100%. The flange didn't meet absolutely parallel to the turbo, although it tightened up ok. Just seemed to leave a very slight tension on the centre cat hanger, but seemed acceptable.
The joint to the centre cat seemed to tighten up ok (I luckily found 2 nuts and bolts spare from when I did the exhaust on my old scoob ). I kept the old damaged stud in, and promised myself I'd find another nut as a lock-nut in a few days, but it did hold fairly tight over the damaged thread.
Intercooler went back on well.
Drove it back home, and it definately seems a fair bit quicker and more responsive than before, but there is a noise that could be a boost leak at over 4000 rpm.
Not really a whistle (like I remember getting from my old scoob when the DP went on), seems more like it could be air escaping from somewhere!
I'll have another go with the window down when I'm not frozen to the bone!
Anyway, thanks all for the top advice!
Cheers,
James
BTW. Only one of the holes in the the centre cat flange is actually threaded. The one with the nut and bolt is luckily a plain hole.
Then on to the top side...
Intercooler came off no probs
Heatshield was a bit of a pain with all of those difficult to reach bolts!
Then I got a major shock!
Had heard stories of turbo nuts being bloody tight, so sprayed WD40 liberally, and left it over lunch...
Came back from lunch, and felt round all the nuts for screwing accessibility (ooo err!)
Bugger me if the one at the bottom (the arkward one) was actually about to drop off the end of the stud (it just spun off by hand!!!!!) It was literally not even tightened up to the end of the threads!!!
Then moved on to the rest, and although thankfully needing the socket drive to turn - they were not that tight at all! Moved really easily! I can't understand how the bloody thing can have sealed properly - although no obvious signs of leakage on the gasket.
Anyway, the old pipe dropped out nicely, and recovered both gaskets.
New pipe went in, although it doesn't seem to line up 100%. The flange didn't meet absolutely parallel to the turbo, although it tightened up ok. Just seemed to leave a very slight tension on the centre cat hanger, but seemed acceptable.
The joint to the centre cat seemed to tighten up ok (I luckily found 2 nuts and bolts spare from when I did the exhaust on my old scoob
). I kept the old damaged stud in, and promised myself I'd find another nut as a lock-nut in a few days, but it did hold fairly tight over the damaged thread.Intercooler went back on well.
Drove it back home, and it definately seems a fair bit quicker and more responsive than before, but there is a noise that could be a boost leak at over 4000 rpm.
Not really a whistle (like I remember getting from my old scoob when the DP went on), seems more like it could be air escaping from somewhere!
I'll have another go with the window down when I'm not frozen to the bone!
Anyway, thanks all for the top advice!
Cheers,
James
Last edited by James_PowerMad; 29 December 2005 at 05:31 PM.
30 December 2005, 01:10 AM
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Good luck with yours Graham...
Just FYI, the actual interior of the join in question (after removal) is:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram3.bmp
By the way, the car really seems like a bit of an animal after swapping the downpipe (back box and centre resonator are already swapped for H&S kit)
Still got to sort out that potential boost leak!
I can't imagine what she will be be like after the re-map!!!
Just FYI, the actual interior of the join in question (after removal) is:
http://www.monkeybusiness.plus.com/Scoob/diagram3.bmp
By the way, the car really seems like a bit of an animal after swapping the downpipe (back box and centre resonator are already swapped for H&S kit)
Still got to sort out that potential boost leak!
I can't imagine what she will be be like after the re-map!!!
Last edited by James_PowerMad; 30 December 2005 at 01:17 AM.
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