KNocklink question......
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KNocklink question......
Right, i messed about with the knocklink on christmas eve, and relocated all the led's into the steering wheels surround, i do't normally see much activity on them, but does anyone know what volatge they are so that i can test them.... i'd like to be assured that my soldering is up to scratch..... so need to pass current through them to check they're all working...
Cheers.
Cheers.
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Tried te tapping the block idea.... could only get the first three to light up, gonna have a play today to check the more important ones.....
pics of install here.... http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=479196
pics of install here.... http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=479196
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should be fairly easy to make the whole lot light up when tapping the block. Make sure you have put all the leds in the right way round.
Leds are normally operate on about 1.3v i think. I tested mine with a AAA battery and a couple of bits of wire to make sure they worked.
Dan.
Leds are normally operate on about 1.3v i think. I tested mine with a AAA battery and a couple of bits of wire to make sure they worked.
Dan.
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Firstly check if they have been soldered in the correct way round. On one side of the LED there will be a flat, this is the negative. Check that all are soldered in the correct way.
Becareful when checking they work with a battery as they can easily be damaged by the current. Some LEDs have built in resistors to protect them, some don't, just becareful!!!!
Nick.
Becareful when checking they work with a battery as they can easily be damaged by the current. Some LEDs have built in resistors to protect them, some don't, just becareful!!!!
Nick.
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As mentioned, should be easy to light up the red with a sharp tap on the block near the sensor (note not on the sensor as you can damage it).
Get someone to watch display whilst you tap, or if your a 'billy no mate's' set a mirror up on drivers seat..
BTW check the first green illuminates (very dimly) with ignition on.
For future ref: the negative (flat leg) of the LEDs is common, therefore you can use one wire and connect them together. Cuts down on the spagetti..
6 core alarm wire is also excellent for extending the LEDs (5x pos & 1x neg/common)
Get someone to watch display whilst you tap, or if your a 'billy no mate's' set a mirror up on drivers seat..
BTW check the first green illuminates (very dimly) with ignition on.
For future ref: the negative (flat leg) of the LEDs is common, therefore you can use one wire and connect them together. Cuts down on the spagetti..
6 core alarm wire is also excellent for extending the LEDs (5x pos & 1x neg/common)
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Thanks for all the advice, looks like i screwed up on the two biggest led's, they won't light up, so i guess i'll have to remove the entire interior to check it all out again....
I might even start again with 6core wire..... that'd make life a lot easier....
Cheers.
I might even start again with 6core wire..... that'd make life a lot easier....
Cheers.
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putting the leds in backwards should not have damaged the knocklink circuitry. That should all be fine unless you have done something else nasty to it?
Dan.
Dan.
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The speaker wire i used was too heavy, so i tried to open up the holes in the circuit board a little, it's just a mess now, although i might see if i could solder the wires onto the back of the board somewhere before i abandon all hope, too bl00dy bored, and therefore knackered to have a go today, plus the garage is cold, and the house is warm what with underfloor heating n all..... so, heater will be on in the garage before i start aswell....... might have a go tomorrow, meanwhile, the clocks etc are out in the car, cos you can't get the steering surround off, without removing the clocks... how daft is that!!!
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if you have drilled out the holes in the pcb, the best way is to solder in a larger pin from something then you can solder the smaller wire to this.
Be careful if trying to solder directly to the tracks on the PCB they wont take much heat as they are very thin and are likley to lift from the board if you are a bit ham fisted with a soldering bat.
If that happens just follow the PCB track back and jump of the leg of the last component in the line.
Dan.
Be careful if trying to solder directly to the tracks on the PCB they wont take much heat as they are very thin and are likley to lift from the board if you are a bit ham fisted with a soldering bat.
If that happens just follow the PCB track back and jump of the leg of the last component in the line.
Dan.
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My advice would to fit the whole unit (less outer casing) above dash binnicle(sp?). 2 Screws and the binnicle comes out, use KL case as a template to drill binnicle, pop LEDs (still attatched to KL board) through holes and secure board with double sided/gaffer tape. Connect loom and replace binnicle, job done.
By far the easiest and neatest install for a KL IMHO..!
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...tionMedium.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3.../KL1Medium.jpg
PS don't worry about visability it's excellent as you get a double ('heads up') reflection in dash lens..
By far the easiest and neatest install for a KL IMHO..!
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...tionMedium.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3.../KL1Medium.jpg
PS don't worry about visability it's excellent as you get a double ('heads up') reflection in dash lens..
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Right, been out and purchased a new soldering iron, came home took it all apart, and resoldered using alarm wire, which is much neater, plugged it back into the car, and actually removed the knock sensor itself, and held it on a big block of iron, and then hit that with a hammer.. could only get the first three lights to flicker....... thinking the worst, i removed the box again, and used a battery (1.5v) to check the soldering on the biggest light, and it worked, so the solderign was/is clearly ok....... so, put it all back together again, and started the car, when the starter motor engages, i now get the fourth light to flicker, so i can now rest assured that all is well.... and the reason i haven't seen the red light is down to the fact that the engine isn't knocking, which is clearly good...... thankfully this now means the job is finished...... and who knows, when it's mapped i might even gain a bit of advance on the ignition...
I even have the box set on the most sensitive.... which is even better!!!
Thanks for all the ideas...
Ron....
I even have the box set on the most sensitive.... which is even better!!!
Thanks for all the ideas...
Ron....
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