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KNocklink question......

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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 05:15 PM
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Default KNocklink question......

Right, i messed about with the knocklink on christmas eve, and relocated all the led's into the steering wheels surround, i do't normally see much activity on them, but does anyone know what volatge they are so that i can test them.... i'd like to be assured that my soldering is up to scratch..... so need to pass current through them to check they're all working...

Cheers.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Just set your meter onto beep, if it doesnt beep then its not working properly

Tony
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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Or just get a mate or the missus to tap the block with an extension bar and see if they light.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Tried te tapping the block idea.... could only get the first three to light up, gonna have a play today to check the more important ones.....
pics of install here.... http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=479196
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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should be fairly easy to make the whole lot light up when tapping the block. Make sure you have put all the leds in the right way round.

Leds are normally operate on about 1.3v i think. I tested mine with a AAA battery and a couple of bits of wire to make sure they worked.

Dan.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Firstly check if they have been soldered in the correct way round. On one side of the LED there will be a flat, this is the negative. Check that all are soldered in the correct way.

Becareful when checking they work with a battery as they can easily be damaged by the current. Some LEDs have built in resistors to protect them, some don't, just becareful!!!!

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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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As mentioned, should be easy to light up the red with a sharp tap on the block near the sensor (note not on the sensor as you can damage it).

Get someone to watch display whilst you tap, or if your a 'billy no mate's' set a mirror up on drivers seat..

BTW check the first green illuminates (very dimly) with ignition on.

For future ref: the negative (flat leg) of the LEDs is common, therefore you can use one wire and connect them together. Cuts down on the spagetti..

6 core alarm wire is also excellent for extending the LEDs (5x pos & 1x neg/common)
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Thanks for all the advice, looks like i screwed up on the two biggest led's, they won't light up, so i guess i'll have to remove the entire interior to check it all out again....

I might even start again with 6core wire..... that'd make life a lot easier....

Cheers.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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Just been out in the garage, buggered it all up, so gonna ditch it and buy a new one...... doh!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:41 PM
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Damn RON what have you gone and done ??

I've picked up a vent customised already to drop mine in... if you want a picture of it I'll take one for you just say
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:46 PM
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The install of the neons was ok, it's just my soldering skills with a crap soldering iron, and **** solder are negligable.... looks like another £100 gone.....
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RON
looks like another £100 gone.....
Ouch
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:52 PM
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Yeh, and the best bit is that i then have to muck about with that and do some soldering... so it could all go pear shaped again!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RON
Yeh, and the best bit is that i then have to muck about with that and do some soldering... so it could all go pear shaped again!
That's enough to give you a shakey hand before you start
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 05:57 PM
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putting the leds in backwards should not have damaged the knocklink circuitry. That should all be fine unless you have done something else nasty to it?

Dan.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:57 PM
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The speaker wire i used was too heavy, so i tried to open up the holes in the circuit board a little, it's just a mess now, although i might see if i could solder the wires onto the back of the board somewhere before i abandon all hope, too bl00dy bored, and therefore knackered to have a go today, plus the garage is cold, and the house is warm what with underfloor heating n all..... so, heater will be on in the garage before i start aswell....... might have a go tomorrow, meanwhile, the clocks etc are out in the car, cos you can't get the steering surround off, without removing the clocks... how daft is that!!!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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if you have drilled out the holes in the pcb, the best way is to solder in a larger pin from something then you can solder the smaller wire to this.

Be careful if trying to solder directly to the tracks on the PCB they wont take much heat as they are very thin and are likley to lift from the board if you are a bit ham fisted with a soldering bat.

If that happens just follow the PCB track back and jump of the leg of the last component in the line.

Dan.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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Thats was roughly my plan.... might even buy a finer soldering iron...!

Cheers.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:12 PM
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right tools for the job always helps
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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My advice would to fit the whole unit (less outer casing) above dash binnicle(sp?). 2 Screws and the binnicle comes out, use KL case as a template to drill binnicle, pop LEDs (still attatched to KL board) through holes and secure board with double sided/gaffer tape. Connect loom and replace binnicle, job done.

By far the easiest and neatest install for a KL IMHO..!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...tionMedium.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3.../KL1Medium.jpg

PS don't worry about visability it's excellent as you get a double ('heads up') reflection in dash lens..
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 10:03 PM
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Thanks, but it's a bit late now i've already drilled the surround...
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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Right, been out and purchased a new soldering iron, came home took it all apart, and resoldered using alarm wire, which is much neater, plugged it back into the car, and actually removed the knock sensor itself, and held it on a big block of iron, and then hit that with a hammer.. could only get the first three lights to flicker....... thinking the worst, i removed the box again, and used a battery (1.5v) to check the soldering on the biggest light, and it worked, so the solderign was/is clearly ok....... so, put it all back together again, and started the car, when the starter motor engages, i now get the fourth light to flicker, so i can now rest assured that all is well.... and the reason i haven't seen the red light is down to the fact that the engine isn't knocking, which is clearly good...... thankfully this now means the job is finished...... and who knows, when it's mapped i might even gain a bit of advance on the ignition...

I even have the box set on the most sensitive.... which is even better!!!

Thanks for all the ideas...

Ron....
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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Well done RON, investment in the right tools always makes things alot easier.
On to the next project

Dan.
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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Excellent news RON.... I'm pleased you got yourself sorted out there.

I've dropped pics of my initial install in the Gallery, It's roughly in place but not connected up as yet... I've got a couple of jobs planned during my service and this will be included.

Simon
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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Good job Ron, as mentioned the right tools for the job make all the difference..
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