just had my wr1 rolling roaded and it read 311.9 bhp & 252 lbs torque
i am a bit disappointed as i have modified the car with a HKS GD max twin plate clutch, lightened and balanced flywheel, uprated fuel pump, earthing kit, and a racing suction HKS induction
should i be worried about these figures or do they seem fair, as i know the wr1 is not 320ps @5800.

BUDA

 

Bhp sounds about right, but that torque is way down. I think the more knowledgable on here would need to see the print out and know more about the conditions of the run to comment though. Just a thought, is the HKS induction kit really necessary? You could try reverting to std and testing on the same RR?

NS04

 

to be honest i was worried about the tourque figure, westec performance who did the rolling road said i could be the hks plugs and it was not boosting hard (comparison to P1), but i am unsure. the induction kit and plugs were highly recommended from sumo power and i have had no problems with these mods or the boost for that matter and have noticed significant gains, like i said i have had no problems with the car and think it is still very quick and have achieved 155@ 6800rpm, could the rolling road figures be wrong as westec performace are primarily a vag tuner and have only recently gone into jap cars.
i use 97ron fuel with pro long octane booster and the car is serviced every 4K, the car is very shortly due for power enterprise timing belt and GFB pulleys as well as a full DCsports exhaust/ manifold and 100cell sport cat and a norris design Re-map.

 

BUDA

Firstly, rolling roads only give an estimate of flywheel power and torque figures so don't rely too much on the numbers. having said that though, at the recent WR1OC Dyno day, the numbers on most cars were at or just over what it says on the tin

Remember that a WR1 already has an uprated fuel pump and a free flow sports cat so you need to decide whether fitting a different one is a waste of money or not.

The most important thing to be aware of though is that we have yet to find an induction kit that doesn't mess up the AFM readings so the ECU will need recalibrating to keep the engine safe.

Mike

 

Remember seeing one on the rollers @ power engineering that only had 306bhp, am sure it was a standard car.

 

if you have not mapped for induction,you are tempting fate,most wr1's do not seem to make the exact bhp/torque on a rolling road but to be fair not many cars do unless they are mapped for that roling road.i heard mike wood had to "fix" quite a few wr1's that were not getting figures they should have been getting as i would not be chuffed buying a wr1 and getting less bhp than a stippp!there is an interesting article in jap performance where they changed plugs to better ones and lost 23bhp!!
martin

 

Hi All..Just had my2001 remapped at power engineering..full de-cat janspeed with a K&N Typhoon induction kit....It was running at 272 bhp before remap,but this was due to the fact it was running very lean at the top end....Iain said they have never done a remap with the Typhoon kit,and would have to see what happens.After the remap it was running at 298bhp and 259 lbs/ft torque.....Does this sound about right?

 

get rid of the HKS induction kit for a start!

The WR1 has an uprated pump as standard.

What was wrong with the original clutch?

The torque and power figures are going to depend heavily on how the car is run on the rollers, the cooling they have, the length of time for the run and ambient temperature. I wouldn't be at all concerned with the power figure, and I would guess it didn't make the target boost on the rollers.

Where was it tested?

Paul

 

Sod the BHP, its the torque your after
Also one for binning the induction kit, go for an STi panel filter, official STI (subaru japan) item

Tony

 

Bad torque man, funny the way things go tho..what fuel u on?

 

I'm sorry to say, that you appear to have been ill advised, and sold parts that you just don't need, and from what you're saying, you're likely to be continuing down this road.

Neither of the companies you have mentioned are known for their work with Subaru's, whilst people such as Mike Wood (From Prodrive) and Paul from Zen, spend their lives with these cars, and know them inside out.

I would suggest you postpone any new parts, or work, until you have spent a little more time looking into just what these parts are going to do for you, most of which, will just be emptying your bank account, to fill someone elses !

Mark.

 

I dont drive a scooby but i would not go to a scooby garage for advise on a vag car and vise versa. I would do a search on here and find a respected scooby tuner to look at the car.

 

I ran this car on our rollers, we have a Dastek setup which we're happy is a great bit of kit after looking at many many others. Our main cooling fan is capable of 200kph winds and keeps intake temps very very close to ambient temps. I've run many Subaru's from basic sports to P1's. We've done quite a bit of work on them, there's actually one here now that we're building. I agree with what is said in some of the posts to be honest, some companies just sell you random bits you don't need or that don't compliment each other.

 

From what has been said said i would also like to point this out, i know that cars are different but u should get the drift, http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=469430