Possible New Turbo time.
08 March 2005, 12:14 AM
#1
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Possible New Turbo time.
A certain 22B owner from this site is trying to convince me to buy a VF35 turbo from him. You know who you are!!!!
I am looking into the possability of adding it to my already unhealthy overdraft
The situation as is:
MY99,
full decat,
BRD Tek3,
k&n 57i
forge vta
Ultimately, if i was to go this route then pump, injectors and regulator would be fitted along with a tweak to the map but i was wondering if i'd get away with just throwing the turbo on until funds are saved for the rest.
While i'm here - any guesses as to what sort of pub talk i would gain from it?
I am looking into the possability of adding it to my already unhealthy overdraft
The situation as is:
MY99,
full decat,
BRD Tek3,
k&n 57i
forge vta
Ultimately, if i was to go this route then pump, injectors and regulator would be fitted along with a tweak to the map but i was wondering if i'd get away with just throwing the turbo on until funds are saved for the rest.
While i'm here - any guesses as to what sort of pub talk i would gain from it?
08 March 2005, 03:27 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Brun
A certain 22B owner from this site is trying to convince me to buy a VF35 turbo from him. You know who you are!!!!
I am looking into the possability of adding it to my already unhealthy overdraft
The situation as is:
MY99,
full decat,
BRD Tek3,
k&n 57i
forge vta
Ultimately, if i was to go this route then pump, injectors and regulator would be fitted along with a tweak to the map but i was wondering if i'd get away with just throwing the turbo on until funds are saved for the rest.
While i'm here - any guesses as to what sort of pub talk i would gain from it?
I am looking into the possability of adding it to my already unhealthy overdraft
The situation as is:
MY99,
full decat,
BRD Tek3,
k&n 57i
forge vta
Ultimately, if i was to go this route then pump, injectors and regulator would be fitted along with a tweak to the map but i was wondering if i'd get away with just throwing the turbo on until funds are saved for the rest.
While i'm here - any guesses as to what sort of pub talk i would gain from it?
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08 March 2005, 05:03 PM
#8
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Brun
You may find you will run a little lean at the topend with standard fuelpump/reg/fuel pressure, depending what boost you run up there.
The VF35 will hold 1.4bar to 6000rpm and 1.2bar to 7000rpm, compared to your 1 bar at 6000rpm on your td04
Also remember 1 bar at 6000rpm on the vf35 will be flowing more air than your td04 at similar boost/rpm.
Do you have wideband AFR monitoring available to you to check it's going to be safe in the short term?
Simon
You may find you will run a little lean at the topend with standard fuelpump/reg/fuel pressure, depending what boost you run up there.
The VF35 will hold 1.4bar to 6000rpm and 1.2bar to 7000rpm, compared to your 1 bar at 6000rpm on your td04
Also remember 1 bar at 6000rpm on the vf35 will be flowing more air than your td04 at similar boost/rpm.
Do you have wideband AFR monitoring available to you to check it's going to be safe in the short term?
Simon
08 March 2005, 11:26 PM
#11
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Turbo bought I fank you Si 
So if i'm reading things right.
My injectors are upto the job
Need new regulator!!! Which is the one to go for?
How handy is the std pump?
I fank you Si So if i'm reading things right.
My injectors are upto the job
Need new regulator!!! Which is the one to go for?
How handy is the std pump?
09 March 2005, 12:07 AM
#12
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Brun
My standard MY99 pump was shagged when I upgraded my turbo along with an FSE FPR. Couldn't achieve more than 12.3:1 AFR on boost. A walbro pump sorted that. However, FSE regs have lost some respect on SN recently, although I've not had a problem with mine holding up to 5.2bar pressure.
If you're going to fit the turbo, I'd fit the FPR at the same time because access to the OEM reg is so much better with the turbo off.
I'm running 1.4bar on a VF34 with increased fuel pressure,1ml/l NF and a walbro/FSE without a remap (safer ae802 ecu though) at the moment. Soon upgrading to PFC but knock free at present with pretty good AFRs. I have DeltaDash to my disposal also though.
Good luck!
Simon
My standard MY99 pump was shagged when I upgraded my turbo along with an FSE FPR. Couldn't achieve more than 12.3:1 AFR on boost. A walbro pump sorted that. However, FSE regs have lost some respect on SN recently, although I've not had a problem with mine holding up to 5.2bar pressure.
If you're going to fit the turbo, I'd fit the FPR at the same time because access to the OEM reg is so much better with the turbo off.
I'm running 1.4bar on a VF34 with increased fuel pressure,1ml/l NF and a walbro/FSE without a remap (safer ae802 ecu though) at the moment. Soon upgrading to PFC but knock free at present with pretty good AFRs. I have DeltaDash to my disposal also though.
Good luck!
Simon
09 March 2005, 12:58 PM
#13
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Cheers for that
Is the Autometer AFR the right tool for the job?
I guess my pump is 76k miles old so it is probably best to replace.
So when i ave the turbo, regulator and pump installed and my Tek3 tweaked, what can i expect in the way of power and torque? I need it for pub talk you understand
Roll on Well Lane 11
Is the Autometer AFR the right tool for the job?
I guess my pump is 76k miles old so it is probably best to replace.
So when i ave the turbo, regulator and pump installed and my Tek3 tweaked, what can i expect in the way of power and torque? I need it for pub talk you understand
Roll on Well Lane 11
09 March 2005, 04:35 PM
#16
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ish, marks now thinkin he will keep up with me lol only problem is iam going to 400 lol
only problem is iam going to 400 lol
09 March 2005, 06:35 PM
#19
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I'm using the standard TMIC and it seems to be handling it ok, but it doesn't get subjected to sustained abuse for long periods. That way it doesn't have much chance of getting heatsoaked. I have tilted it though and plan to get a bigger scoop.
I'd recommend using NF all the time for safety and extra power/torque.
As for expected output, all I can give you from mine is DeltaDash road dyno figures (260bhp at wheels at 6200rpm and similar torque at 3500rpm) Torque curve is pretty flat from 3500-5500rpm. This is with a vf34 rather than vf35, so expect yours to spool earlier and therefore have more low-down pull.
Overall it feels a lot faster than with the td04 because the torque doesn't drop off that much higher up in the rpm range, where as the td04 will drop off pretty quick after 5000rpm.
Cheers
Simon
Edited to add - Brun does the Autometer use the standard narrow-band lambda? If so a wideband would be a lot easier to interpret. I thought my fuelling was ok running around 1.2bar mid range dropping to 1.1bar at the top with raised fuel pressure and standard pump (around 0.88V on NB). Then put a wideband on and found my AFRs were 12.2:1 ish on boost!
Luckily I didn't blow anything up!
I'd recommend using NF all the time for safety and extra power/torque.
As for expected output, all I can give you from mine is DeltaDash road dyno figures (260bhp at wheels at 6200rpm and similar torque at 3500rpm) Torque curve is pretty flat from 3500-5500rpm. This is with a vf34 rather than vf35, so expect yours to spool earlier and therefore have more low-down pull.
Overall it feels a lot faster than with the td04 because the torque doesn't drop off that much higher up in the rpm range, where as the td04 will drop off pretty quick after 5000rpm.
Cheers
Simon
Edited to add - Brun does the Autometer use the standard narrow-band lambda? If so a wideband would be a lot easier to interpret. I thought my fuelling was ok running around 1.2bar mid range dropping to 1.1bar at the top with raised fuel pressure and standard pump (around 0.88V on NB). Then put a wideband on and found my AFRs were 12.2:1 ish on boost!
Luckily I didn't blow anything up!
Last edited by SiHethers; 09 March 2005 at 06:40 PM.
09 March 2005, 06:56 PM
#20
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Yep - it uses the std lambda.
Do i understand this right - are you suggesting i change the lambda sensor for a wideband item and run my gauge off that - or have i got the wrong end of the stick?
Do i understand this right - are you suggesting i change the lambda sensor for a wideband item and run my gauge off that - or have i got the wrong end of the stick?
09 March 2005, 09:59 PM
#21
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You would need to use something like the techedge wbo2 kit which will use the wideband output to simulate a narrowband output that you can feed into the ecu so that the closed loop fuelling still works.
Narrowbands are a bit unreliable, you can't easily calibrate them or correlate them to AFR and they misread when they get too hot, so not ideal for accurate monitoring.
Narrowbands are a bit unreliable, you can't easily calibrate them or correlate them to AFR and they misread when they get too hot, so not ideal for accurate monitoring.
09 March 2005, 11:41 PM
#22
Scooby Senior
Thread Starter
Damn - this is starting to sound expensive
Would i need to go wide band if i was to go for a front mount ic? The previously mentioned 22B owner is trying to convince me to go all or nothing G1t
Would i need to go wide band if i was to go for a front mount ic? The previously mentioned 22B owner is trying to convince me to go all or nothing
G1t
10 March 2005, 04:04 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by Brun
Damn - this is starting to sound expensive
Would i need to go wide band if i was to go for a front mount ic? The previously mentioned 22B owner is trying to convince me to go all or nothing G1t
Would i need to go wide band if i was to go for a front mount ic? The previously mentioned 22B owner is trying to convince me to go all or nothing
G1t
10 March 2005, 08:57 AM
#24
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If you were going to run it without a remap for a while at decent boost levels, then I would say its pretty essential based on my experience. If you're going to run low boost till remapped then it's just an extra bit of safety/monitoring, as whoever remaps you should set it up with a WB at the time.
Going to a FMIC all depends what your goals are, how much money you've got and what sort of (ab)use it'll get
That money might be better spent on an early remap (sorry Si)
Cheers
SImon
Going to a FMIC all depends what your goals are, how much money you've got and what sort of (ab)use it'll get
That money might be better spent on an early remap (sorry Si)
Cheers
SImon
10 March 2005, 08:42 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
It seems that the Hybrid FMIC from Harvey is £575 + £180 fitting.
What essentially is gonna be the difference that i will see between my top mount and that?
What essentially is gonna be the difference that i will see between my top mount and that?
11 March 2005, 09:09 PM
#30
Ecu Specialist
Brun do not fit a FSE reg, if you must then fit an SX but, you don't need either at this level, neither do you need a wideband unless for your monitoring purposes, the narrow band is used for ecu closed loop, and I use my own wideband for mapping so wouldn't use anything installed. If you fit the turbo ahead of mapping time then run off boost or at least no more tha 0.5 bar, suggest connecting wactuator directly to turbo outlet just in case There should be enough depth to the closed loop to cope as it was mapped open loop to stoich at the outset.
Bob
Bob