Anyone had a re-map carried out on an STi5/6 Type R?
#1
Anyone had a re-map carried out on an STi5/6 Type R?
Had my Type R version 6 Ltd for over a year now. As far as I know, the engine is standard apart from Full decat (Scoobysport) and HKS Dumpvalve. It goes like stink but I've always wondered if there's any more power that can be squeezed out? Running it on Optimax and its always in the back of my mind that I perhaps should be using octane booster.
So question is, what benefits would a re-map unleash? And what options are there?
Nick
So question is, what benefits would a re-map unleash? And what options are there?
Nick
#2
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It will probably be detting to some degree without OB.
I have a V5 STi with HKS headers and full 3" decat + panel filter, which was quite nippy.
Had the TEK3 remap at BRD (Wouldnt use anyone else) and the car is seriously quick now. I cant quantify in terms of power, and its probably not relevant. Its just a lot more drivable. Boost is now 21 psi peak instead of 17.
Its the best ECU mod for the money. Other options are a lot more pricey and involve either LINK / MOTEC / GEMS etc... Apexi pwer FC is another cost effective option.
At least with the TEK remap you keep all the functions of the existing ECU.
MB
I have a V5 STi with HKS headers and full 3" decat + panel filter, which was quite nippy.
Had the TEK3 remap at BRD (Wouldnt use anyone else) and the car is seriously quick now. I cant quantify in terms of power, and its probably not relevant. Its just a lot more drivable. Boost is now 21 psi peak instead of 17.
Its the best ECU mod for the money. Other options are a lot more pricey and involve either LINK / MOTEC / GEMS etc... Apexi pwer FC is another cost effective option.
At least with the TEK remap you keep all the functions of the existing ECU.
MB
#3
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I picked up an STi5 Type R the other day- it managed to do about 20 miles before it let go.
She seemed fine when I collected her, and the scoobynet user that had owned her for the three years immediately preceding knew what he was doing and looked after her well. She appears to have come in to the UK when new in 99, in the days before Optimax and the knowledge of ob, and I guess this was when the damage was done. Unfortunately it didn't become apparent until 60k.
As a result of which she'll be going in for a TEK at Prosport as soon as the new engine is run in.
She seemed fine when I collected her, and the scoobynet user that had owned her for the three years immediately preceding knew what he was doing and looked after her well. She appears to have come in to the UK when new in 99, in the days before Optimax and the knowledge of ob, and I guess this was when the damage was done. Unfortunately it didn't become apparent until 60k.
As a result of which she'll be going in for a TEK at Prosport as soon as the new engine is run in.
#5
Have had mine Tek 3'd but - due to problems getting hold of the mapper to make some "changes" (other have had other problems - but that is a different story)I am booked in with Bob Rawle. Comparing data logs between my car and an STi 5 mapped by Bob, highlights some considerable differences and some severe lack in power/spool up on my car.
Can't let you know what difference the BRD map makes until April, but if as good as others have been saying - then Follow the majority of advice and go see Bob Rawle!
Can't let you know what difference the BRD map makes until April, but if as good as others have been saying - then Follow the majority of advice and go see Bob Rawle!
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All, owning and buying an STi 5/6 really is a different kettle of fish. It basically boils down to knowlegde of the MAF sensor.
There are 2 ideal scenario's
1) Buy the car fresh off the boat and perferably unmodified. This gives you the confidence its been run on the correct grade of Jap fuel.
2) Buy it off a very knowledgeable owner from here, and ideally makes sure its been treated as per below, and has low miles. If not - walk away.
When I bought mine it had a new MAF immidiately go in, and I will be replacing it annaully regardless of its condition on my AFR meter. New lambda went in too - not a safety issue but good to get it all right. Also had a major service including all fluids, and key things such as a Knocklink / Boost gauge and AFR meter. Ran it on OB from day 1, until it was remapped.
It was detting without OB as a point of note.
There are a lot of cowboys on here who will tell you im talking crap, but they're the sort who have neons and fit bleed valves
I would also include the above advice on the P1, very similar issues.
MB
There are 2 ideal scenario's
1) Buy the car fresh off the boat and perferably unmodified. This gives you the confidence its been run on the correct grade of Jap fuel.
2) Buy it off a very knowledgeable owner from here, and ideally makes sure its been treated as per below, and has low miles. If not - walk away.
When I bought mine it had a new MAF immidiately go in, and I will be replacing it annaully regardless of its condition on my AFR meter. New lambda went in too - not a safety issue but good to get it all right. Also had a major service including all fluids, and key things such as a Knocklink / Boost gauge and AFR meter. Ran it on OB from day 1, until it was remapped.
It was detting without OB as a point of note.
There are a lot of cowboys on here who will tell you im talking crap, but they're the sort who have neons and fit bleed valves
I would also include the above advice on the P1, very similar issues.
MB
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#8
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The Subaru Garage in Aberdeen quoted me £60approx for an engine re-map to accept UK fuel. Is this good?
They were very willing to help me in any way with my import.
They were very willing to help me in any way with my import.
#9
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Sounds very suspect. The only technology to adjust the fuelling / ingition timing on these cars is ECUTEK, and thats around £600-£700. Also only for MY99 onwards.
Its the ECU that needs the change, not the engine.
Id ask exactly what they are doing...
MB
Its the ECU that needs the change, not the engine.
Id ask exactly what they are doing...
MB
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Andy F remapped my otherwise unmoddified Version 5 Type R. It now has a silent knocklink and pulls more eagerly with spool up starting lower down the rev range. Very pleased and would recommend him.
Steve
Steve
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I am in the process of having my car mapped with a GEMs I bought second hand on here - it will take a week to sort out the cold start etc etc. Will tell you what i think when its finished - at the moment its a pig!
I brought mine in from Japan myself first jobs were new lambda and maf and this was before it was even registered. I ran a 96WRX on unleaded and super for 3 years, but never with the type R. the STi NEEDS booster to get close to that lovely Japanese 102RON fuel.
I brought mine in from Japan myself first jobs were new lambda and maf and this was before it was even registered. I ran a 96WRX on unleaded and super for 3 years, but never with the type R. the STi NEEDS booster to get close to that lovely Japanese 102RON fuel.
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