i have just stripped a spare o2 sensor i had to see how many wires they are for the sensor on my96 wrx.when i stripped the braided wire and rubber insulater there is a coiled wire inside.do i just solder the signal wire from the dawes to the coiled wire? any help would be mos greatfull


paul g

 

after reading on some threads i get the impression that you wire it up to the o2 sensor on the ecu. is this correct?? which wire on the ecu is for the 02 sensor read out? any one no where to get the wiring diagram from as i don t have one?


cheers

 

It would be much simpler to connect at the ECU end - If you look HERE you want plug B43 pin 6 (O2 signal)

Cheers

 

cheers mate thats a great help....cheers i will go and wire it up now.

 

i had the dawes afr fitted yesterday.once warmed up i get a little flash on the red light then nothing on idle. if i give the throttle a blip i get a flicker from the yellow green light.while driving i get nothing at all. any suggestions???

cheers!

 

bttt

 

Did you get the normal daews AFR or did you get the subaru specific dawes AFR?? They look the same but have different voltage detection values. (normal dawes AFR works on lambda sensor output 0-1v, subaru dawes AFR works on lambda sensor output 0-0.9v).

I bought the wrong one. You can adjust it, I'll tell you how if you got the wrong one.

 

normal one:
http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html

subaru one:
http://www.dawesdevices.com/wrxmeter.html

 

i bought it of a bloke on this website.on the bag it came in it has wrx wiriten in black ink on the label.is there any other way of checking the dawes device to see if it is diffrent. or how can i check it aint my o2 sensor? the only readings i get is a flicker of red.it lit up like christmas tree once and then went blank

 

When i first fitted the Dawes AFR all it showed was a red flicker, even with the foot on the floor, turned out the O2 sensor was guffed. Fitted a new one and it flickers red on idle and green on partial throttle and blue on wide open throttle

Hope this helps

Grant

 

Just seen this thread Mystery. The AFR is the right one for Subaru's, I can assure you. Funnily enough, when I first fitted it, not alot happened. Had the car in for a re-map, and they found the Lambda sensor was knackered. Put a new one on, and voila! It worked. You sure you got it connected to the correct pin out from the ECU?? White wire on the AFR

It should flicker up and down the range on cruise, and should hold a colour when on full throttle (hopefully green/blue! )

 

i have connected it to pin 6 on b43. its a my96 wrx..the sensor is most likely duff. the downpipe i bought had a 02 sensor in it so i just left it in there.looks like i will be swapping them over from my original downpipe.cheers for the info lads. you have been a great help.

 

any idea how much 02 sensors cost new??

 

If you're smart and get a generic bosch one then it would be about 35 quid, if you go to subaru specialist it may be about 80 quid, and if you got to a subaru dealer it may be 150quid +

 

strange thing happend today.the afr guage was flashing all the colours on tick over. so i took it for a blast. at0.5 bar it lit up green. at 1.05 bar it lit up yellow,so the fueling is spot on.as soon as i turned my lights on the gauge didnt show any thing on tick over or cruise?? is this normal?

 

Yes, common. The lights seem to effect the voltage read by the AFR meter. There is only as little as a 0.04v difference between different colour leds.

My car gives me blues on WOT, yellow and green at around 0.7bar, red at 0.5bar. With lights on I only get red, except for an occasional yellow on lift-off.

 

i get green at .6 bar and yellow at 1 bar.but with lights on i get nothing at all.not even a flicker.i might check the voltage on the positive wire to see how much the power drops when the lights are switched on.

 

I think you should get a higher AFR as the boost goes up.

Apparently poor connections can make a big difference too. Mine is soldered direct to lambda output, and direct to battery + and -. I had the meter soldered to another + source and moved it to the battery because of the effects of lights, but I found it was just the same after.