Hi guys

Ok here is the problem. Idle varies between 800 and 1600, CEL did come on a few times (3 or 4) but then went out again almost straight away. Problem is worse when the engine is warm. Over the last 3 days I have had no instances of CEL comming on but idle is still not good. When I checked the CEL memory the following faults were reported:

12 - Starter switch
23 - Mass air flow sensor
24 - Idle air control solenoid
31 - Throttle position sensor
32 - Oxygen sensor

The MAF died about 3 months ago and was replaced with a brand new unit. When the MAF went the CEL also reported the starter switch fault but hasn't caused any problems that I've noticed. Prior to this happening the car had gone in to have an oil leak sorting on the crank seal and the cam belts were done at the same time.

Other than the idle the car seems to be running well (although I have been trying to stay off boost) when I have booted it the boost preasure was at 1.0 - 1.1 bar same as normal and no hesitancy. The only other thing I have noticed is when comming to a standstill it feels like I'm catching the gas pedal with my foot but I think this is just due to the idle being so high ( I can almost pull away with no throttle).

Sorry this post is so long but the more detail the better with this sort of thing IMHO.

Just wondering if it could be something simple that I've not noticed and with so many faults were do I start.

Hope someone has got a few ideas as I don't really need to be forking out loads of cash this close to x-mas especially as I've just spent £300 on the leak and belts and tax is due this month (sorry to whine but it's getting on my tit's).

Thanks

Ben

ps The car is an STI version 3 import run on SU with the odd bottle of octain booster when it's going to driven hard. It's all standard apart from a K&N panel filter that was fitted after the MAF failed as I was told to remove my induction kit by my garage.

 

The first thing I'd do is reset the ECU. Some of those error codes could be old, but they won't disappear until the ECU is reset, even if the problems were solved.

In case you don't know, info on how to reset the ECU can be found here.

If you do that and post back with what error codes remain, we'll have a crack at sorting them. To be honest though, from what you've said, the car sounds like it's running as it should be (apart from the idle). In which case, I'll bet the only code remaining will be 24. And the idle air control solenoid can usually be cleaned, so hopefully the most you'll have to spend is a couple of quid on a can of brake cleaner...

 

Thanks for the idea I'm a little woried about reseting the ecu in case it forgets what it's learned and the car becomes unusable. But I will try cleaning the solenoid. Does anyone have a picture of it's location?

 

If you don't reset it, you won't know whether all those error codes are relevant or not...!

I'm not sure about your MY, but on a MY99/00 the wastegate solenoid is below where it says 1. Driver strut tower, the small blue cylindrical device.



You need to connect the green connectors beneath the steering wheel, and turn ignition on (but don't start engine) to initiate ECU test mode.

Then get your head in the engine bay, locate the solenoid, remove the hoses (remembering where each goes), and spray loads of brake cleaner inside the solenoid and the hoses. You might need to remove the solenoid from it's home in order to get the brake cleaner where it needs to go.

Then put everything back together, turn ignition off, disconnect green connectors, and go for a drive. Crossing of fingers is optional...