hope fully its somethin simple but i have a problem ... any 1 help me
my check engine light is on and my fans are running all the time any suggestions on what it could be .....
ta!!
apart from that seems to be running ok ( i hope)

 

Sounds like it could be the coolant temp sensor, the ECU doesn't know what temperature the engine is so it puts the fans on just in case. It shouldn't run perfectly like this though, it should be rougher than normal coz the fueling will be slightly incorrect.

 

Definately the Water temperature sensor. This should help you locate it on a classic:

http://www.derekcarswell.pwp.blueyon...ginefaults.htm

They're about £35 to replace. Bugger to do though as they're in a really awkward place. I've changed it on both our scoobs & I don't want to do it again any time soon

Basically what's happening is because the sensor is knackered it's telling the ECU that the engine is overheating, hence the fans going on all the time.

Do a CEL check (there should be a thread around somewhere on how to do this) & if the code 21 comes up then its the Water Temp Sensor that's gone

Hope this helps

MAFFA

 

thanks great help just got to find the cheapest place to get a temp sensor from now ...
any suggestions ????

 

Soakden,

Well i don't know weather Grade A Subaru breakers are the cheapest or not. Give em a ring you never know.

Grade A

 

Ive got the exact same problem! my 97 sti3 is a bit of a T@@T to start from cold, the fans are on all the time, and the engine check light is flashing, twice slowly and one quick (2slow indicate 20 and 1fast indicate 1 = fault code no.21) Ive been told temp sender also,

BUT! I changed the sensor or what i thought was the temp sensor(brown plug- under alternator) and still got the same problem, Did i get the right sensor or should i have changed the sensor next to it with a single spade terminal?


please help!!! Andy

 

I put a post up not so long about this problem on my legacy. i got a replacement sensor for about £27 from my local dealer. It cured the bad starting and the fan problem instantly. Like others have said its a bit awkward but only took me about 45 mins to do.

Cheers
Comper100

 

soakdens is defo the temp sensor, we had a look sunday morning, its gonna be a bitch to get to and change.

 

Andy the brown plug under the alternator is the Crankshaft position sensor. That's about 5 minutes to change (if that). The water temp sensor is at the back under the inlet manifold. You'll need to take your intercooler & the pipework out to get to it.

MAFFA

 

Dogpole - should take no more than an hour if it's your first time doing it. Just make sure you've got someone with small hands nearby LOL. First time I did mine I had to get the misses to put the new one in coz my hands wouldn't fit . Hers was easier as she's a FMIC & and there's a lot more room

MAFFA

 

MY WARNING LIGHT ONLY COMES ON WHEN I HIT 140???????

 

Mine doesn't & MAFFA's birds doesn't even at 170

 

Probably overheating then...........

 

MAFFA,

cheers for the advice, we've seen the pipes and assumed they were water related, not air. please confirm mate.

thanks
DP

 

The water temp sensor is electrical. There are no water pipes as the sensor screws into the block with electrical wires coming out of the back of it

I would have posted a picture of my old one but I think I binned it

Cheers

MAFFA

 

I just had a look & if you want to locate it (looking straight into the engine bay) look just to the left of the throttle body & just behind the inlet manifold. It's a brown sensor with a gold coloured screw. Hang on a mo & i'll take a picture

MAFFA

 

Here ya go





MAFFA

 

WOW ... over exposure as tooooooo much Bling Bling in that engine bay ...

 

Why does this sound so amusing

 

andy .....try clearing the ECU of the fault code

 

It would to you Pete!!!

 

lol thought so

 

Thanks for all the advice, changed the sensor but still the same, however started car from cold yesterday and gave it a few mile blast once warmed up, first time out really in the new type R as i purchased it with a blown engine, seemed to run spot on,check Engine light remained on, But started it this morning from cold-damp and it started 100% better and no fans running, Has the blast cleared the problem?

light has remained on but am going to reset ECU in the morning,


car has been off the road for about 6 months does this explain anything?

cheers,Andy

 

is this normal?

 

Sorry, is what normal?

Overheating ( no, not as long as the cart has enough oil and water and thermostat is working and hoses are all ok )

Fans stay on etc. ... no, means a sensor or wire is broken.

My post above meant that at 140 maybe the engine is over heating as it is working hard.... Try 70 mph it will stay cool then!!

 

I have a similiar problem, my CEL is no on and when I check the code it comes back with 21 (Engine coolant temperature sensor) and 24 (Idle air control solenoid).

The cel light has been coming on (for a few seconds) while the engine warms up, for a couple of weeks now. Then yesrterday it stayed on and when I went to start it last night after it had stood all day, it was a real pig and would not tick over until it started to get warm (had to keep the foot on accelerator) then it was ok.

So I checked the ecu codes and got the ones above, what I was wondering is if the Temp sensor has gone could it affect the idle solenoid or do I have different problems? I hope its just the temp sensor as I have been quoted £210+vat for the idle solenoid(main dealer Ouch!!!).

Any help/ suggestions greatly appreciated.

Where the cheapest/quickest place to get this parts from.

Many Thanks Anthony

 

1st i would like to say thankyou for all the info but ....
my fault is still there
has any 1 got a wiring diagram so i can try some continuity checks or maybe make up a fly lead and bypass the cables to where ever they go to to see if its a cable fault
..
i have looked and i think the 2 cables that go out of the sensor go to a plug near the battery . does any 1 know ???
wouldnt be so bad if it happened in the summer but its a bitch to start at the min as it thinks its always hot

 

oops just a thought the ecu should automatically detect that the sensor is workin again i dont have to reset it again do i ( even though i have tried that just wondered if i had done it right)