AIR BOX MOD
16 September 2004, 10:46 AM
#2
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16 September 2004, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by morpheous
anyone else ?????????????????????
Makes nice noises at the very least...
Just watch your Inlet temps go high... you need to devise a way to get cold air into the box...
works well though
17 September 2004, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by morpheous
why should the temps rise ?????????
Normally its a sealed link from the front of the Engine ( the Black cover that goes into the wing) to the wing through the snorkel and into the Air box.
It like when you run a Cone filter in the engine bay but not as bad... I monitor inlet temps a lot and always notice in traffic the temps raise...
I did use to use a Cone filter in the engine bay but temps got too high too easily.
then again I am running a Decat which isnt lagged yet so I think I am going to go down that route eventually ( get it lagged, maybe turbo too)
Im also going to devise some way of cold feeding the air box, just havent had the time.
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17 September 2004, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Daz_WRX
but didnt the snorkel thing draw in engine bay air anyway?
rub a bit of flexi hose from bumper to air filter.
I have two one running in arch and one between rad and engine etc..
Although i have no air box but you hopefully can see what I mean?
Simon
17 September 2004, 11:47 AM
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i took mine out last weekend and its a sealed box, it only gets air from the tube by the headlight, which if you look under it has a large hole so its engine bay air, correct me if i am wrong, i normally am
17 September 2004, 11:53 AM
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believe it is from the arch... I know some newer cars (mine if 96) have an extra hole in the inner wing so it might suck some through there?
but it is still going to be colder than from the engine bay.
but it is still going to be colder than from the engine bay.
17 September 2004, 12:07 PM
#11
did this a few weeks ago here: http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...light=free+mod
Works a treat for me
Bob
Works a treat for me
Bob
17 September 2004, 12:21 PM
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mine is a 97 and there is physically no way it could suck it from the wing, it was a sealed box the only path led to behind the headlight which as i say will be drawing in warm air?
17 September 2004, 01:15 PM
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I did this mod and then my mapper told me to either find a way to draw cold air into the wheel well or refit the plastic bit that runs from the frount because my inlet temps were skyrocketing when it was idle in traffic.
17 September 2004, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by swaussie
I did this mod and then my mapper told me to either find a way to draw cold air into the wheel well or refit the plastic bit that runs from the frount because my inlet temps were skyrocketing when it was idle in traffic.
Agree with you there! they do go High!
17 September 2004, 02:10 PM
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Remove the resonator from the inner wing and duct cold air using tubing directly.
Run it from under the indicators to the pipe that feeds the air box.
Just be careful not to hit deep puddles.
*****
Run it from under the indicators to the pipe that feeds the air box.
Just be careful not to hit deep puddles.
*****
17 September 2004, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Daz_WRX
mine is a 97 and there is physically no way it could suck it from the wing, it was a sealed box the only path led to behind the headlight which as i say will be drawing in warm air?
Surly the air in the wheel arch is going to be colder if anything than the air the standard setup draws in or am I missing a ****ing big heater in the wheel arch?
19 September 2004, 01:06 AM
#18
Originally Posted by unfeasablylargegonads
Yeap, I have just been out to check and my my99 is the same, the air box is fed via the snorkell thing that draws air from the scoopy thing that is positioned just behind the headlight in the warm engine bay. I can see absolutly no way that removing the snorkell would increase air temps as claimed in certain posts.
Surly the air in the wheel arch is going to be colder if anything than the air the standard setup draws in or am I missing a ****ing big heater in the wheel arch?
Surly the air in the wheel arch is going to be colder if anything than the air the standard setup draws in or am I missing a ****ing big heater in the wheel arch?
Bob
19 September 2004, 11:17 AM
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The issue comes if you remove the resonator and the snorkel which collects air from below the bonnet lip. Just doing this means you are drawing hot air from the engine bay. On the classics I used to block the hole where the snorkel used to be.
On the new age, better is to fit a hose between airbox and snorkel. Make sure the hose is held captive correctly - had a car that started detting suddenly, was traced the the hose between snorkel and airbox being up tight against the airfilter!
Richard
On the new age, better is to fit a hose between airbox and snorkel. Make sure the hose is held captive correctly - had a car that started detting suddenly, was traced the the hose between snorkel and airbox being up tight against the airfilter!
Richard
19 September 2004, 11:19 AM
#20
The BMC CDA and Pipercross Viper induction kits have closed airbox systems that pull air directly from the wheel arch after removal of the resonator box (although they are quite costly).
19 September 2004, 03:32 PM
#21
Best thing to do is just give it a go. It costs nothing and is easy to do.
What I found is that by making more openings in the airbox you get more of an induction sound and it pulls better further up in the rev range at the cost of some low down torque.
Its almost a cross between an induction kit and the OE airbox with benefits of both.
Bob
What I found is that by making more openings in the airbox you get more of an induction sound and it pulls better further up in the rev range at the cost of some low down torque.
Its almost a cross between an induction kit and the OE airbox with benefits of both.
Bob
19 September 2004, 08:42 PM
#22
Well................
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.
I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup)
Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet
)
Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise
,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup
)Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet
)Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
19 September 2004, 09:21 PM
#23
Sounds good Gary can you send me the pics
truemorpheous@blueyonder.co.uk
truemorpheous@blueyonder.co.uk
Originally Posted by easyrider
Well................
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.
I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup)
Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet )
Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise
,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup
)Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet
)Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
20 September 2004, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by easyrider
Well................
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.
I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup)
Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet )
Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
I crried out this free mod on my MY02 this afternoon,started it with a little scepticisum (sp?),first,the resonator doesnt draw air from the arch,it joins straight back on to the "ram air" duct.
It only took about 25mins to do.The results are that there is a hugh emount more turbo noise
,and for all those people who want to spend £200 odd getting a dump valve to supposedly make it sound better,and throwing the low speed fueling out)-dont bother getting one-i couldnt believe how much you can hear the dump valve wooshing by just doing this mod,and the bonus is that it doesnt **** up your fueling.I monitored the intake temps before and after-with the oe box,the temps were 3-4deg c above ambient on normal/spirited driving,at idle,was 8-9 deg above ambient(stationary).
Initially,when i did the mod,i put the "ram air" duct back in place so it more or less covered the gaping hole left in the inner wing.The temp were 6-7 deg above ambient (driving) and 27deg above when stationary
Upon seeing the hugh temp increase,i set about looking at ways to reduce them.I noticed that the filter box's now open inlet,wasnt drawing air directly from the wing due to there being a roughly 1inch gap between the box opening and the inner wing-the same applied to the "ram air" duct.
To get over this,i stuck some high density foam draught excluder tape around the circumference of the opening in the filter box and around the hole where the other duct goes untill it was sufficient to bridge the gaps.The results were...........3-4 deg above ambient driving and 9-10deg above when stationary(nigh on the same as the oe setup
)Before mod,air fuel ratios when driven hard never deviated from 11.1-1,after mod it would sometimes go slightly leaner to 11.4-1,which is deffinately telling us somthing here-it deffinately lets more air in,which should mean a slight increase in power!
I have some pics if someone wants to host them for me(still havnt worked out how to do it myself yet
)Hope this helps in your quests for more power.
Gary
Good idea with the expanding Foam stuff... I did wonder about something like that!
Shall give it a go and see what the results are like..
30 September 2004, 01:01 PM
#29
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Question.
With the ramp air scoop removed, and the hole plugged, is there enough fresh air in the wheel arch to feed the airbox ?
Any downsides to not having the air 'rammed in' ?
On my MY02 STI, there are the fog light covers with a small slit opening to the side. would enough air come through this gap to then be ducted up to the air box or would it be better to remove the fog cover ?
Or is the air in the wheel arch just plenty enough ?
And one more question. Where is the sensor on the car that display the outside temperatures ?
Thanks
With the ramp air scoop removed, and the hole plugged, is there enough fresh air in the wheel arch to feed the airbox ?
Any downsides to not having the air 'rammed in' ?
On my MY02 STI, there are the fog light covers with a small slit opening to the side. would enough air come through this gap to then be ducted up to the air box or would it be better to remove the fog cover ?
Or is the air in the wheel arch just plenty enough ?
And one more question. Where is the sensor on the car that display the outside temperatures ?
Thanks
30 September 2004, 01:13 PM
#30
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has any one got instructions to remove the cover under the wheel arch? i cant get the bloody fasteners off under the front bumper, fastener doesn seem to have any bits i can unscrew its just blanked off!