some of them are the push in the middle and pull clips and a couple are just pull out.

I think I broke a few of mine getting it off and cable ties it back on (like more items on my car )

 

There will be plenty of air into the arch-as it is open into the lower engine bay-you can see the headers when you look through from outside(with the internal arch plastic out of the way).
I decided to put the scoop back on because of above,so that when under way,there is more cooler air coming in near the airbox inlet,and not being drawn up from lower down near the headers.
When driven at 50+ for a while,the inlet temps are only 1deg above ambient.

 

Oh yea-I think the outside temp sensor is located under the near side front bumper.

 

When gettingmy 2003STI re-mapped by Bob, I looked at his JDM 03STI, and the de-restricted air feed solution he has done.

When I asked about it he pointed out that the standard ram air scoop running from the front grill to the inner wing is nearly sealed when the bonnet is closed.

Just by re-routing airflow using the fog-lamp intake he has constructed, and removing the resinance box in the wing, along with a cone filter, he has increased power by 40bhp (coupled with re-map)

 

Gary,

Thanks for the detailed posting of your results. This is exactly what SNet is all about.
I used to have a MY00 and did the resonator removal with good results. I've now got a MY03 WRX and will soon do it again, this time with the additions of your proven recommendations.

Regarding the pictures, send them to me and I'll host them for you. I'll also add pics of mine when I've done it.

[Update: I've now uploaded Gary's pictures. Here they are:]

1. Draught excluder tape around circumference of airbox opening.
2. Side view of airbox with draught excluder tape now fitted.
3. Engine bay with airbox removed. See the two holes in the wing - left is for ramair pipe, right for the airbox.
4. Close-up of the airbox which now covers the hole in wing. Note, the ramair hole is still open.
5. Draught excluder tape around circumference of ramair hole in wing.
6. Ramair pipe now fitted into hole in wing - job done.

-Steve.

 

Steve-mail keeps getting refused-PM me your address.

As a follow up,a couple of nights ago i went for a rather spirited drive and noticed that my knocklink was showing a little bit of activity up into the ambers ,i turned the boost down a bit,which helped a bit.Just out of curiosity,i refitted the resonator back on to see if it would calm it down again,and it did!!!
So as an advisory,if you do this mod,to be on the safe side,either get a Knocklink,or get it remapped to cope with the extra air.
To be honest,i havnt felt any gains in power,the only benifit you get out of it on a std ecu is that you hear the turbo spoolup and the dumpvalve(if you like that sort of thing).
Its also worth pointing out,as i said in an earlier post,the intake temps when going at 50+ are only 1deg above ambient with the mod.With the resonator back on the temps are at 3-4deg above ambient at 50+ constant speeds,which i have to say suprised me a little,as i thought it would be closer to the ambient temp.
So basically,the mod works well,and would probably be ok at std ecu boost levels-but its best to get a remap to be on the safe side.

Gary

 

It may be worth having a look at a thread ive started refering to my last post.

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=367278

 

had a bit of a brain wave today and brought a sink plunger....



stops a bit more of the hot air getting into the wing, easy to remove and looks neater Needs a bit of tidying up but seems all good and it only cost £3.85!!!

Hope this helps.

 

I cut off the snorkel in the wheel arch and closed the hole it left by cutting a piece of plastic from the snorkel and glueing it back on. Then refitted the ram air and cut the rubber from in frount of it on the bonnet. Dont know if this is a satisfactory solution but at least it looks like the original setup.

 

Gary and all,

I've now uploaded Gary's pictures for his airbox modification. Here they are:

1. Draught excluder tape around circumference of airbox opening.
2. Side view of airbox with draught excluder tape now fitted.
3. Engine bay with airbox removed. See the two holes in the wing - left is for ramair pipe, right for the airbox.
4. Close-up of the airbox which now covers the hole in wing. Note, the ramair hole is still open.
5. Draught excluder tape around circumference of ramair hole in wing.
6. Ramair pipe now fitted into hole in wing - job done.

-Steve

 

easyrider,

Is the airbox mod still ok.

No problems ?

I'm looking at doing it this weekend..

 

I put it back to std after getting knocklink activity to see if it made any difference,and it did-so ive left it as std to be on the safe side.You have to bare in mind that ive got decat up/downpipes and a boost controler-and turning the boost level down also made the knocklink quiet.But to have the airbox mod with the other mods really does require a remap.If you have a decat and airbox mod it should be fine though.

Gary.

 

It works well for me with decat etc.

No unusual KL activity.

Bob

 

Right, did this mod yesterday.

Out comes the resinator box (a little tricky ).

Used draught proof tape to seal up the gap between the airbox and the wing, and did the same around the gap from the ram scoop to the wing.

Went for a drive. 2-3 degrees above ambient. Parked up, 15 mins. Drove off again, this time temps were 10+ degrees and not lowering. Got home and discovered the heat from the engine had mad the sticky draught tape move and the seal dropped off.

So, I put the seal back on and this time silicon sealed it into place, and also siliconed the entire draught tape. Left overnight.

Went for a run today, 40+ mph, I get 3 degrees above ambient (at one point I saw 2 degrees above). Got stuck in traffic, inlet temps rise, fairly quickly. Move off again, temps drop quicker than before with resinator fitted.

So, it seems that perhaps I don't have an excellent seal to the wing (needs more investigation), and yes inlet temps do rise probably quicker than with the resinator box fitted when sat in traffics, but the temps do seems to drop much quicker when pulling off.

No extra activity on the KL.

So, next job is to replace the draught proof tape with a hard pipe from the airbox to the wing and seal that. Perhaps that will fend off the heat from the engine, rather than some spongy tape. Will be taking diameter measurements tomorrow, and then off to the hardware store.

Any other ideas ?

I did see someone say they had 1 degree above ambient on 50+ mph. I'm not seeing this

I might try some tin foil around the airbox, perhaps to help defend off the heat.

 

boing, thought I'd bring this back up.

Now looking at wanting to increase the air to the airbox. So I saw this in Jap Performance:



Where can I get one from ?
Are they easy to fit ?

And what type of hose would be recommended to use to link this and feed it up to the air box ?

THANKS

 

just wondered how everyone whos got this mod is doing, really fancy doing it, just would like to know peoples feedback. cheers pete.

 

Well I did get the trumpet in the end from RCM, and cut it into the fog light covers.

Then I ran some ducting up into the engine bay and it now cools the RCM induction kit very nicely.

 

thanks mate, do you have it re-mapped for this mod, or does it seem ok without, thanks pete.

 

take a look here too mate... http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...=440832&page=2

 

Get one of these to replace the resonator, then remove the seal from the front edge of the bonnet in front of the air scoop

http://www.rallitek.com/products.asp...Y&HB=&ACC=&SP=

 

second pic needs to be hosted mate, can't connect to local files...

 

looks good mate, think that might be the way to go.

 

Just read the 'link' to the other thread and their MAF's failing.

I ran the direct hose to the airbox for 6 months with no problems at all.

I did silicone seal the bit where the hose enters the airbox to make it air/water tight.

I did also get a remap.

I now have the RCM Cone filter and still have the hose setup too.

 

I did this mod recently, and on a blobeye WRX I opened up the small triangular vent to the side of the O/S foglight by drilling out a small part of the light mounting to allow more air into the inner wing. I have fully sealed off the engine bay by duct taping the holes left by removing the ram-air scoop, and sealed around the air-box with a length of rubber hose. I have noticed a drop in running temps just using the water temp guage, which sits about 1mm lower, and never raises any higher even in traffic. If I go full decat/remap I will consider removing the O/S foglight and using the aperture as an inlet with suitable ducting (fitting an STi cover to the N/S balance looks).

 

I did mine this afternoon and have just come back from a 40ish mile test.

I'm currently running a MY00 with one of John Banks' Tek2.5 maps and a Green panel filter. I am quite aware that some people scoff at any perceived performance gains from this modification but she does seem to pull fractionally harder and smoother in the upper rev range. Where before I would be changing gear way before the redline I found myself changing far closer to it than usual as the car was pulling ever so slightly stronger, not trailing off and running out of puff.

I'm not saying these gains are huge but they are certainly there. IIRC, the 2.5 map John created was suitable for cars with an induction kit so I guess it's possible that the improvements I'm noticing are due to this.

The added noises are very too.



Thanks again Corrado