stu8v

Looking at getting a scoob possibly an import but dont know much regarding running them (imports) on our fuel.
What is the usual fix, do you use octane booster all the time with SUL?? or does everyone get a remap for 95UL or SUL fuel (is this possilble)??

Also spares for imports are most parts shared with uk models?

So as i dont bore you guys too much is there a FAQ with this sort of info?


STU.

StickyMicky

depends from car to car

sum use octane booster sum dont

sum blow up, sum have no problems

ive been testing mine recently and im not getting on knock retard on my 97 wrx with just optimax in the tank, im only checking it when its on boost tho

i still use NF when i cant get optimax (like my 650 round trip down south last week and stuff)

if its on the strip or such it always gets nf, along with RR days, but for genral round the town stuff plain optimax seams to be fine for me, but my car is sum kind of scoob freak and doesnt fuel cut till 1.45 bar and stuff



edited to add, its not just a standerd 97 wrx, its running a cat back 3" system, pannel filter and a vf23/vf 24 depending on mood with about 1.3bar boost preasure

they say it should have blown up when i first got it, thats about 28 000 miles ago now
as i said above, totaly depends on the car, best bet is sum knock monitoring equipment and check it out yourself to see what you personaly need

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

I run my MY03 JDM STi on optimax and octane booster, as the car is designed to run 100+ ron fuel its better to add 3 quids worth of octane booster and not have a 2k bill for a new engine
A knocklink is also advised for a JDM car.

Tony

stu8v

Thats a pain, i didnt want to go to the bother of having all the flashing lights and run octane boosters all the time.

Surely someone must be able to remap the std ecu for UK fuels>

StickyMicky

i think you can??

isnt that what a tek3 is??

Stev0

Sorry about this guys, but i'm new to the forum and am trying to learn the lingo.

Can someone explain what a knock retard is and what NF is?,

"ive been testing mine recently and im not getting on knock retard on my 97 wrx with just optimax in the tank, im only checking it when its on boost tho

i still use NF when i cant get optimax (like my 650 round trip down south last week and stuff)"

Cheers.

warrenm2

The permanent solution is to remap the ecu. One company that can do this (via their dealers) is ecutek. To map the engine individually takes about 2 hours and is commonly known as tek3 although this is not the official name. There are other remapping tools/products available that do the same job but require hardware changes as well.

Danny Boy

iTrader: (2)

NF is NF RACE, this is a type of ocatne booster, generally regarded on here as the best you can get, but sometimes a bit difficult to get hold of.
I've had some pretty good results with millers as well.

Dan.

The_Judge

stu8v - The older MYs can't be remapped, but can instead use a Scoobyecu (depending on availability) which is a small circuit board that you add to your ECU. It alters fuelling, timing, and boost, using predefined maps. There are also replacement ECUs available.

Stev0 - Knock retard is where the ECU detects "knock" within one or more of the engines' cylinders, and "retards" the ignition timing as a countermeasure.

As Dan says, NF ("Nitrous Formula") is a brand of octane booster.

stu8v

Where can i learn more about these add on boards.


cheers
stu.

Stev0

Cheers Judge, but i still don't know what a 'knock' is or a retard? IS it a discrepency in the 'bang' in the cylinders?

Sorry for sounding really thick.

The_Judge

stu8v,

http://www.scoobyecu.co.uk/
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/search.php?searchid=127365

Stev0,

The following information was taken from http://auto.howstuffworks.com/...

Knock
"With air being pumped into the cylinders under pressure by the turbocharger, and then being further compressed by the piston (see How Car Engines Work for a demonstration), there is more danger of knock. Knocking happens because as you compress air, the temperature of the air increases. The temperature may increase enough to ignite the fuel before the spark plug fires. Cars with turbochargers often need to run on higher octane fuel to avoid knock. If the boost pressure is really high, the compression ratio of the engine may have to be reduced to avoid knocking.

Timing
The timing of the spark is important, and the timing can either be advanced or retarded depending on conditions.

The time that the fuel takes to burn is roughly constant. But the speed of the pistons increases as the engine speed increases. This means that the faster the engine goes, the earlier the spark has to occur. This is called spark advance: The faster the engine speed, the more advance is required.

Other goals, like minimizing emissions, take priority when maximum power is not required. For instance, by retarding the spark timing (moving the spark closer to the top of the compression stroke), maximum cylinder pressures and temperatures can be reduced. Lowering temperatures helps reduce the formation of nitrogen oxides (NOx), which are a regulated pollutant. Retarding the timing may also eliminate knocking; some cars that have knock sensors will do this automatically."

This site also explains it quite well, but there's loads and loads of stuff on the Internet about this topic. Just do a Google search for detonation/knock/pre-ignition/etc...

Stev0

Cheers for this.

So a knocklink is a sensor you can fit to your car - or is it already fitted?

Do you get a meter you can read from inside the car whilst it's running?

Do you know where i can find any pictures?


Cheers for all your help by the way

The_Judge

You get a knock sensor fitted as standard, but there are several reasons why a Knocklink should be considered as well.

- the OEM knock sensor was designed to work with factory boost/fuel/timing. Once you start modifying, the standard knock sensor can't compensate enough.

- it can only retard timing to a certain point.

- it stops listening above ~5000rpm, as it can't differentiate between genuine knock and engine noise.

The Knocklink consists of a Bosch sensor, which you fit to the block, beneath the passenger side of the intercooler, and a display unit that you mount somewhere on or around the dashboard.

Some more info can be found here and the Link website here.