P0031 Lambda Fault
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
P0031 Lambda Fault
just had my car diagnosed as having a faulty lambda, due to crap idleing etc..but where abouts in the exhaust system is it ??
the car is a MY01 WRX (bugeye) and I have a decat up pipe, decat downpipe, then theres a small section with a cat in, next is a fairly long centre section & finally the back box.
lame question I know , but where is the lambda situated ??
also, does anyone know a good place to get these from preferably in Leeds & is it a DIY job to change it
before you ask, yep I'm crap with cars
cheers
Phil
the car is a MY01 WRX (bugeye) and I have a decat up pipe, decat downpipe, then theres a small section with a cat in, next is a fairly long centre section & finally the back box.
lame question I know , but where is the lambda situated ??
also, does anyone know a good place to get these from preferably in Leeds & is it a DIY job to change it
before you ask, yep I'm crap with cars
cheers
Phil
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Kin'ell £300 ??
anyone got one going spare that I dont need another mortgage for ??
are you sure its deffo the up pipe ? as I just spoke to Subaru and they said its £157+VAT and its in the downpipe
anyone got one going spare that I dont need another mortgage for ??
are you sure its deffo the up pipe ? as I just spoke to Subaru and they said its £157+VAT and its in the downpipe
#4
Ecu Specialist
There are two, one in the collector of the headers at the bottom of the up pipe, thats a pseudo wideband and is the on eused for the closed loop off boost fuel adjustment and idle, the second is at the bottom of the downpipe or start of mid section and is a narrow band sensor, that is there just to check on the condition of the cat.
The front one is the expensive one unfortunately but thats the one you need and it does have to be the right one.
bob
The front one is the expensive one unfortunately but thats the one you need and it does have to be the right one.
bob
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for clearing that up Bob, it sounds about right as the idle is really lumpy but driving & boost is fine & I suppose in your knowledge you 'll know by the fault code
P0031 Heater control circuit (bank1 sensor1)
Can you recommend anyone to supply the part or is it a Subaru only part ?
not a happy Grippy
P0031 Heater control circuit (bank1 sensor1)
Can you recommend anyone to supply the part or is it a Subaru only part ?
not a happy Grippy
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#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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not really
Far too busy at the moment..
personally I would grab it with molegrips after sticking some heat in and get what you can out.. then drill and retap or just run a tap to clean it up.. eitherway, up-pipe will probably need to come off.
David
Far too busy at the moment..
personally I would grab it with molegrips after sticking some heat in and get what you can out.. then drill and retap or just run a tap to clean it up.. eitherway, up-pipe will probably need to come off.
David
#11
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
was only joking about the fitting. I think the look on your face after spending 7 hours in my garage last time said it all
I'll give it a try when I get a bit more time. I'm a bit bogged down with work at the moment. Any consequences from using it at the moment or is it just the bad idle I'll have to put up with till I can get it sorted
Phil
#12
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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I wouldnt like to comment on that.. Ill let someone more experienced with the new age's comment..
David
David
#13
Ecu Specialist
It is "only" available from Subaru, it should come out though assuming its never been out, with a good close fitting ring spanner on it, not an open ender. As for running with it knackered it will screw the off boost considerably if its "off". The snsor will still be functioning as long as its hot enough though so the problem will be mainly in pootle mode or cold/semicold. These ecu's run stoich fueling right from start up (at least once coolant is over 20 degrees C).
As a check, just in case its a wiring fault, unplug the oxy sensor, if you look at the connector pins two are gold and two are silver, the gold ones are the signal and signal ground, the silver ones the heating cct, its pin 2 thats the positive heater supply and should have 12 volts on it wrt ground, check the car connector not the sensor connector. If volts are there then its the sensor. BTW you can confirm you have pin 2 as pin 1 should ring out to ground at less the 5 ohms. The resistance of the heater in the sensor ie across the two silver pins in the sensor connector should be less than 10 ohms, I suspect its not.
I think the sensor is in the headers not the up pipe and wait till its all stone cold to provide least resistance to turning otherwise it will probably rip the threads.
cheers
bob
As a check, just in case its a wiring fault, unplug the oxy sensor, if you look at the connector pins two are gold and two are silver, the gold ones are the signal and signal ground, the silver ones the heating cct, its pin 2 thats the positive heater supply and should have 12 volts on it wrt ground, check the car connector not the sensor connector. If volts are there then its the sensor. BTW you can confirm you have pin 2 as pin 1 should ring out to ground at less the 5 ohms. The resistance of the heater in the sensor ie across the two silver pins in the sensor connector should be less than 10 ohms, I suspect its not.
I think the sensor is in the headers not the up pipe and wait till its all stone cold to provide least resistance to turning otherwise it will probably rip the threads.
cheers
bob
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for the detailed reply, I think its all a bit over my head though,so I'll have to find a good reliable local auto electrician
thanks again
Phil
thanks again
Phil
#15
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
after a bit more digging around the WWW I managed to find a semi-detailed pic of the Impreza exhaust system and it seems that the sensor in the up pipe is in fact the EGT probe (thank god for that eh DW ) Bob was correct in his assumption (not that I doubted him) that it appears to be the O2 sensor in the headers that is at fault.
Phil
Phil
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