Yesterday I changed to oil in my 03 WRX, from magnatec to Mobil 1, 15W15.

I followed the instructions, and removed the crank sensor before turning the engine over for over 20 seconds (felt like 25 or there abouts). Anyway, the oil pressure light did not go out. Why?

I reconnected the sensor and started the engine, check engine light appeared, but went out after a few starts, engine running very smoothly now (it likes the new oil ).

 

Hi,

wheres the crank sensor and do you unscrew it or just disconnect it?

I've done a change before and never removed the sensor

Doesn't the ECU go into some kind of error mode it if detects the sensor has been removed?

Cheers

Frank

 

The sensor is just above the front pulley, the crankshaft one!! and it just unplugs, I normally do fairly short runs on the starter, say ten seconds ot so, then wait for the same again, then go again until the light goes out, that way I can be assured that I have done the job.

Ron.

 

I usually just unplug the ign coil. Easy to get to and does the same job. Cranking time can vary massively but it's always wise to let the oil pressure light go out before starting

 

Problem with just disconnecting the coil, is that it doesn't disconnect the injectors, and they'll be pumping fuel in.

Mark.

 

Greasemonkey warned about the CEL, so I wasn't phased when it appeared

I thought it would be easier on the battery if I kept the starter running rather than start-stop-start. The crank sensor is very easy to get at, just under the alternator behind the pulleys. Overall, the oil change was straight-forward, apart from a moment of cursing when I got oil on the driveway. Dishwasher powder left overnight works wonders!

 

Is the Mobil 1 15w15 (shouldnt that be 50?) the best run of the mill oil for MY 03 cars????

Ive always changed to magnatec and wondered if there was a better oil to use for not a huge increase in cost...

 

Correct! sorry, typo. Magnatec wasn't recommended on here. The three main synthetic oils are:

Mobil 1 15W50
Motul 300V 15W50
Castrol RS 10W60

 

It's possible to overheat starter motors to the point where they break. I'd be careful of continuously cranking it. Batteries are easier to replace than starters (normally).

J.

 

Doesn't usually mean anything's wrong if the oil pressure light won't extinguish during cranking....mine never has. Your starter probably isn't turning the engine over quickly enough. I can crank mine for up to a minute, inc. short breaks to let the starter cool, light will only go out when the car is actually started.....never had anything bad happen! Btw, I was worried about this myself the first time, and spoke to API David....the above are his words of wisdom, not mine!

 

I can second what Micared has stated above my MY00 did the same during the last oil change.

 

So what's the bottom line then?

1 long crank or several shorter ones?

And the oil light won't neccesarily go out no matter how long you crank the engine for?

Is this correct? (Newage cars)

 

Seems like it's normal for the light not to go out, and it now seems sensible to use several shorter cranks with a few seconds between cranking to allow the starter motor to cool. Mine is a WRX03.

CEL will go out after 3 or 5 good starts, although you may need to tell the service guys as they may think there is something wrong when they read ther error codes.

 

Hi,

With referrence to the oil change debate I had a look at a WRX03 (newshape) maintenance manual which I purchase off ebay. And yes, its an official Subaru verion .

The instructions copied straight from the book are as follows:

PM-7
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SERVICES
ENGINE OIL FILTER
4. Engine Oil Filter
A: REPLACEMENT
1) Remove the under cover.
2) Remove the oil filter with ST.
ST 498547000 OIL FILTER WRENCH
• NON-TURBO MODEL
• TURBO MODEL
3) Get a new oil filter and apply a thin coat of engine
oil to the seal rubber.
4) Install the oil filter by turning it by hand, being
careful not to damage the seal rubber.
5) Tighten more (approx. 2/3 to 3/4 turn) after the
seal rubber contacts the cylinder block. Do not
tighten excessively, or oil may leak.
6) After installing the oil filter, run the engine and
make sure that no oil is leaking around seal rubber.
NOTE:
The filter element and filter case are permanently
joined; therefore, interior cleaning is not necessary.
7) Check the engine oil level. <Ref. to PM-6, INSPECTION,
Engine Oil.>

Why do Subaru not mention anything about removing the cam sensor?

Cheers
Frank

 

I'm not 100% sure regarding the MY03, but with the classic's there's an addendum to that procedure outlining the need to also fill the filter before it's attached. Seeming that the MY03 manual doesn't include this (and the manual would've been produced after the addendum to the classics was issued), we could presume that either the complications involved in protecting the engine at an oil-change are unnecessary with the MY03, or that Subaru simply hasn't had enough knackered engines back yet of the MY03 variety for them to be bothered to issue the additional information.
Dunno
I also have no idea why, but I've never had any problem with oil pressure on my (MY00) car after a change - within 2 turns the pressure's up at 6 bar, so not exactly a problem (I do pre-fill the filter though ).

Just to complicate matters

 

I only pointed this out because these were the instuctions I followed when I did my oil/filter change.

Only difference was that I filled the filter with oil like you said before I put it on.

Started the engine and no oil pressure light at all. I must have the magic touch or something???

 

Yeah, but when the engine actually starts, it takes very little oil pressure to extinguish the light.....when you're " dry cranking " the engine and the light doesn't go out, all this means is what was stated above, i.e. the starter isn't turning the engine over quickly enough to put the light out.....however, you're still chasing oil around the engine and coating all the bearing surfaces, and providing a sufficient build up of pressure prior to starting the engine to help ensure all will be well.....you did the right thing pre-filling the filter, but I wouldn't make a habit of just firing it up without doing the above, whatever the MY....regardless of what Subaru say, if it's not under warranty, it's you picking up the bill if it goes t!ts up. ( Not such an issue for you if it's a MY03, obviously )

 

...although of course the engine is still turning whether you're turning it with the starter motor or it's doing it itself.
I think one of the key issues here is the oil -if you use ****e oil, it's not going to work very well. Well, duh. Unfortunately, Subaru garages use ****e oil, so they have to be very careful indeed, which of course they aren't, which is where the problems start.
IMHO, of course

 

Nevermind them not mentioning the crank sensor mate, in that maintenance manual you posted from they don't even mention putting any oil in!!

"6) After installing the oil filter, run the engine and
make sure that no oil is leaking around seal rubber."

 

Don't forget to dip the clutch when cranking the engine. The gearbox with 75/90 oil in it, takes a lot more power to turn, especially when cold.
JohnD

 

Nom, yeah, the engine's still turning over either way.....but dry cranking removes the stress from the bearings, especially if the plugs aren't in.

 

Quite pleased I've read this thread as last time I changed the oil in my MY95 WRX for RS10/60 I did all that is recommended (excepting spark plug removal which is mentioned as a positive but not vital step).
I started sweating when after cranking the engine over (IIRC a couple of 20 sec turns then a couple of 10 sec turns) the oil light stayed lit. I eventually plugged the sensor back in and after 2 or 3 seconds or so the light went out and I've since driven a couple of '000 miles and all seems fine - must be time for another oil change !
1 suggestion at the time was it might have been an indication of slightly iffy oil pressure release valve ?