STE.W.(atome)

Hi,

On the early Imprezas I have read that there should be a brass restrictor fitted to the lower boost solenoid pipe.

I have a Legacy Turbo and am pretty sure that the set up is the same.

Trying not to sound too dumb here

Can someone either give me a photo of what this restrictor looks like or confirm the sizes that are supposed to be fitted to either early scoobs (pre 96) or better still Leggy Turbos.

If thats not possible, a good description and directions to the where on the lower pipe it is fitted would be good.

I dont want to have to take the car to bits trying to find it if its in a different place if you know what I mean

I have a Pavlo rechip in my car and have had to use a Dawes to cap the boost but have just read that the restrictor may be missing or the wrong size.

If anyone can help in any way, please post back.

Thanks in advance.

Ste.w.

sideforce

As i understand it it is a small one way restrictor. I will get mine off and have a look for you. I take it you mean the pipe off the bottom of the boost control valve located under the solenoid?

STE.W.(atome)

Hi Mark,

yep thats the kiddy.

I've just refitted all the original pipe work and removed my dawes device.

18psi with big red winking at me

Had put a restrictor in the line from the slokenoid to the bottom of my home made de-resonated intake pipe. (the one before the pipe that sits on the turbo with recirc dump valve fitted into it).

I havwe to say the car was flying and so more open to throttle input than with the dawes fitted where it god intended.

I have just finished reading another post on Liberty RS from Mr Vos and he has advised fitting of a boost controler to the sollenoid to inlet pipe plenum.

This has got me thinking about fitting my Dawes in this line and using it to soften the signal back to the solenoid and if Adrian is right then it should be a tunable part to cap overboost but not as god intended

Please let me know what youve got fitted - restrictor wise and point out any errors in my post.

Anyone else for that matter.

If this works then it will take away the need to buy a voschip and have it imported.

You were right about Adrian by the way --- top bloke.

On the plus side, just creamed a M plate wrx with a type r badge on it so things cant be too bad for the old Legy T.

Cheers again mate.

Ste.

scoobyboy

it's not one way, it's in the pipe that goes from the bottom of the solenoid valve to the resonator box by the turbo and it's in the end nearest the solenoid valve. it's a brass insert with a hole drilled all the way through.

STE.W.(atome)

scoobyboy cheers mate.

On my car I'd have to take all the airbox off to get at the bottom of the solenoid and I supposed I am being lazy but I dont want to do that if the brass restrictor is at the other end of the pipe.

Which end is the restrictor supposed to be at?

I know its not at the end the fits to the inlet res. or plenum thingy.

Shizer, its like being a noob all over again

Cheers Fellas.

Ste.

scoobyboy

it's at the solenoid end just before it bends. they don't come out to easy though

Turbo_Steve

Why are you changing it? If you're making TOO MUCH boost then I'd suggest the restrictor is the last of your worries: The restrictor will actually increase the amaount of pressure the actuator sees (it slows the bleed to the -ve pressure side) and so I would infer that it's probably okay.

More likely, your boost solenoid needs cleaning / replacing. Also: What is your wastegate pre-load? Why have you taken the Dawes off? Is it to try and solve another problem?

If you are no longer running standard turbo, stndard exhaust or even in some cases the standard air filter, your ECUs boost control will be off anyway.

STE.W.(atome)

Scoobyboy,

Thanks mate. I knew you were going to say that.


Hi Steve,

I have one of Paul's ecu remaps fitted and its always overboosted since fitting a couple of years ago. At the time the only solution was to use my old dawes as a boost cap.

I've been reading a fair bit on the Liberty RS forum of late and the guys on there have a few things of interest to me.

One of them is using a smaller restrictor or boost controller in the line to the air plenum (if changed from standard) to the solenoid pipe. This should alter the ammount of -ve the solenoid receives and decrease or increas depending on bleed level.

Thats the word on the ozzy street any way

My plan was to fit the Dawes in this line and go on tut moors and play with the dawes device starting wound shut to fully open to see if a flat boost curve of 16 psi is available.

Pauls remap is tops but its giving me too much boost and a flash of det in 3rd on full wot so obviously still needs capping.

I'm in the throws of replacin with a vos chip from ozz but thought of going for this first to see if any difference can be made for zero bucks

Again if you think I'm talking pants

Please come back, Ive got me ears good buddies.

Ste.

STE.W.(atome)

ttt for the night owls

Cheers.
STE.

sideforce

Hello

Had visions of been megga helpfull here mate - taking mine out for a picture for you...lol. But i cant even find mine in the pipe... ...must be very small. It was described on the Aus legacy forum as a one way valve? and i cannot blow down mine, but maybe that is the boost solenoid doing the restricting...as i cant find it i cant tell you even what end it is...soz!

I looked at the set up you mention that some of the Aus guys are running and it is interesting..

But at the moment i dont want to touch my car as i have it running exactly as i want it. I had a chat with Adrian about the restrictor causing or contributing to overboost, when i was trying to sort the problem before fitting the VOS chip, but even with it missing he didnt seem to think it would be the cause..

If i reconnect my boost control valve i too get overboost, with or without the VOS chip. Adrians chip is not a bespoke remap and therefore there are a few compromisses for sure. It is set up for the stock air box, which i dont have on my car (KnN filter on Graham Goode induction kit) and different exhaust set up to mine (GGR turbo back exhaust).

I too use a MBC to cap boost at the top end, and my boost control valve is completely disconected - I use a GBE - which does not seem to spike and the set up runs great with a 3/4" pipe to the wastegate actuator. No spikes at all..got a GBE of eBay for 22 new...I found i had to bleed the boost down to 16psi with the boost control valve working. With the GBE i can use all 18 with all the fueling being perfect throughout..thanks to the chip.

I would watch the "old" dawes you are using as these are notorious for spiking especially when old, due to the spring wearing. I would be carefull as you are well close the limit now, as you know (although someone on here was mentioning 21psi on a legacy recently..lol)

With your remap what is the fuel cut set at now? with the VOS it is 18.5psi...

PS: One thing that REALLY helped in getting my car running as it is now was the fitting of a really basic cold air box/heat sheild around my filter and feeding cold air in...what are you using induction wise?

sideforce

Ooops forgot you have the airbox fitted...

Oh and the throttle response i was raving about previously was with the MBC fitted, not the factory boost controller.

TBH the VOS chip is the best money i have ever spent in tuning any engine ever, i have raced bikes for years and now race sidecars, and the money i spent on the VOS was the best money i have EVER spent on anything automotive! The difference to my car was totally amazing.

Since i have got mine running right two mates of mine have gone out and brought them for track day/fun cars, off here and eBay, so if you do buy a VOS and dont like it i would buy it off you instantly for them! or as a spare for me..

I have just brought new crank, rods, pistons etc to rebuild a wrx engine for the car as i love it. lol. I am going to build this up to the VOS stage II spec (so to speak) with larger turbo, bigger TMIC, bigger injectors etc. He reckons he has a wicked map for this set up..LOL.

One thing is for sure is that some of those guys on that board know there stuff, with our cars...have you seen some of 1/4mile times they have run with VOS, and standard inards? some of the figures for otherwise standard cars are incredible.

Only problem is there Aussies, LOL..

PS: I am always interested in sharing any legacy related info as i am new to this whole scooby malarcky, and would be especially interested to know about suspension set ups and geometry settings tried on leggies...my email is mark@sideforce.com

CDR

This is based on WRX, but the restricctor is exactly as said, a small brass insert in the pipe from with a small hole drilled in it to restrict the air flow and make the boost solenoids job easier. Too much restriction and it wont see enough pressure to trigger the wastegate actuator and you will over boost. Too little restriction and the solenoid is overwhelmed with air and cant get enough vented to atmoshere so you wastegate opens and you dont get your target boost.

In your case it is possibly too much restriction (blocked pipes) causing the overboost or faulty solenoid opening to atmoshere to early causing the car to overboost.

If giving what you've got a clean doesn't work, new plumbing with a needle valve type adjustable restrictor is a useful way to dial in your restriction to get your target boost level.

n one

iTrader: (5)

Ste, I`d like to help you - but I`m clueless. I`m sure some of the above must make sense to ya.

Neil.

STE.W.

Thanks for replying chaps.

I thought this one was going to deep but no.

Mark, thanks mate for trying to look at the pipes etc. My car does have the std air box fitted but I have drilled 4mm dia holes (approx 200 of em) into the bottom and I have some air extractor pipe in the inner wing where the large res once lived: D This way I seem to be getting goo airflow to the engine but with out the noise and the temp probs attributed to cones etc.

We are right on the edge of ordering 2 sets of romms from Adrian but are going to see if this air signal alteration to the solenoid will work. My boost cut is also at 18.5 ish but fortunately havnt been there at that psi

CRD...... Thanks for taking the time to asisst, I'm made up that you have time for plebs like me

When you say needle valve, could you advise what you think would be suitable and where such valves can be purchased?

Would the Dawes device I have be too extreme to work if I put it in the plenum to solenoid line and played with the settings??

Would I be able to remove the pipe with the standard restrictor in it and replace it with a pipe - with say - a home made restrictor fitted. Then I could play with different diameters until the target boost is obtained??

Sorrry for so many questions but this is too good to be true.

Will the fueling be ok if the ecu is cheated in this manner??

I really look forward to your reply (s) if you can.

And finaly.......


Neil, thanks mate, glad your interested and appreciate your honesty

Jim Clark Rally????? July 2nd,3rd & 4th. Can you be there mate?


Thanks in advance.

Ste

sideforce

LOL...got me re reading adrians posts on this again..

So i will connect it up tommorow and have a play?
have you got yours set up like this yet?

STE.W.

mark,

Mooornin.

No not yet, too much $hit to deal with round the home at the minute.

It turning into a cross between changing rooms and ground force at home right now.

I will try to fit the dawes in the line and see what happens.

Its all quite interesting though.

If this works then I'll be well chuffed.

Would like some of the big guns to be constructive on ths one too, just to make sure

Speak to ya soon ma man.

Ste

Turbo_Steve

Dude,

Reading the above, you have changed your resonator chamber?
If that's the case, you will have changed the amount of turbulence in the chamber, and the amount of pressure in the bottom solenoid line: hence your need to change restrictor.

Now here's the neat bit. Go to pets at home, go to the aquarium section, the airlines, and buy one of their inline plastic valves. They cost under a pound.

Get a little bit of pipe too. Fit the valve between the bottom of the solenoid and the resonator. Make sure the valve is closed. Drive the car: you should see naff all boost.

Then open the valve gradually, until the ECU has a decent grip on boost control.

It's a bit of a bodge, but it saves you having to mess about with restrictors in the short term.

STE.W.(atome)

Steve,

mmmmmmmmmmmwaaa (big kiss) :

Thats the best bit of info to date.

I wouldnt care I've been looking at needle valves all day unsure of which one to go for and I never even thought about fish tank stuff.

What makes this even worse is I have a blody 135 litre tropical tank and fish just sat there in my house with the same valve fittted to it to regulate the air stones. Doh.

Thanks mate.

Ste.

STE.W.

Just to let ya know.

Purchased a one pound ninety nine air bleed valve from petsworld.

Fitted in the line and now have controlled 15.5 psi

Will play around with it to see if its stable but all I can say is wow.

Steve you truly are da man.

Best Regards,

Ste