Dear all,

unfortunately, i had a crankshaft bearing failure, being in a financial position not to be able to afford a rebuild, i managed to locate another engine supply and fit (via ebay).

having had my engine removed and replaced, i paid the fee, and 6 miles down the road a radiator hose was not connected, and ultimately the head gasket failed...and ended up on the back of an RAC truck

Now, Neither the supplier, or the engine fitter wish to take any responsibility ..so having borrowed the money to get this engine, i now have neither the engine or the money to repair it.

The supplier are Enkahnz - body specialists, and the fitter was H&I autos, both of Bradford, West Yorkshire.


Needless to say, am Gutted..!!

Anyone know how easy it is do a head gasket?



Frank

 

Head gasket wise i not got a clue but if you find out let me know and ill come and help you mate.

Got to be worth a phone call to trading standards though about the 2 companies ??

Have come across this too Frank, James showed me a card at the weekend......

www.casmotorsport.co.uk

only by lookers in the port, may be usefull to know about.

 

Blown head gasket could have caused the coolant hose to blow off in the first place,due to increased pressure.

 

if the hose was clearly OFF, then H&I should take FULL responsibility for it !

to change head gaskets isnt that hard a job, but its a lot easier if you take the engine out! 5hrs ish for a garage i would think.

Steve

 

Does, anybody know of the procedure for doing a head gasket?? please. Or where i can find a procedure located??

mechanically, i can do some stuff and im not afraid to have a go, but this is going to be like a hill walker taking on everest. A couple of guys off here have offered to give me a hand to do the work.

Is it easier to do with engine in or out? Again, any procedure helps most welcomed.

If anybody can offer any written guidance, please email me via my add' on here .... or just a post on here.

Many thanks


Frank

 

Sorry to hear your problems mate.

What was the history of the engine before it went in?

Changing the head gasket would definately mean taking the engine out. Do you know which chamber has blown the head gasket else you'll have to do them both.

I'd really speak to the trading standards cos the should supply some sort of warranty.

Good luck,

Blod

 

As yet, im not sure how bad the situ is ...... the RAC got involved, once they got me home (2 hours later), they tried to fill the coolant system up ...it took, about 4 kettle loads of boiling water.... when we cranked it over, without the rad ' cap back on, the water was pushed back out again....... plus the oil smelt quite hot.

I allowed it to run for a couple of mins, and it did seem tick over ok..but the RAC techincian basically said 'that aint meant to happen - looks like the head gasket has gone'


What other checks/observations can i perform to confirm this ...

Thanks

Frank

 

Frank

Really sorry to hear what happened mate

Like John, unsure as to the complete steps (only done it once or twice before, but not on scoobs) but willing to give a hand

Sadly I no longer have any tools at all, as some ******* broke into my garage and nicked everything

I *may* have some instructions but unsure till I can check when I get home

Steve

 

In all honesty, you cant really provide full written instructions as the list would be so long. I wouldn't attempt to do it without serious knowledge and tools.

One guy who will give you an honest answer is Colin Minton at Thames Valley Motorsport. Although he's in Reading, Berks, he'll be able to help and he's always sorted my scooby.

Give him a bell on 07771767874.

Good luck mate.

 

hi, i've got a subaru legacy manual, which shows how to remove the heads.
and i don't think you need any special tools to do the job.

i know one of the guys from runcorn, or could bring the book myself.

always willing to lend a hand!

 

I'd be really cautious about the cam pulley bolts as these are difficult to do without a windy gun. Also you WILL NEED all the correct torque settings when reassembling the heads; the bolts that hold the camshafts down are easy to over tighten and shear especially the two at the front nearest the cam pulley (the shanks neck and shear even at correct torque setting). Remember that once it's all together, back in the car and it's ready to fire, you cant double check the torque settings.

You may need the subaru tool to take the front pulley off but you can try with the engine in 5th gear and the wife stood on the brakes to stop the crank revolving (you'll see what i mean ).

Someone on here must have some torque settings. As i said, ask Colin @ TVM, i'm sure he can give you some advice.

Good luck.

 

think i have all the torque settings, in my manuls n stuff somewhere, will try and dig them out

 

Frank
Dont forget you have payed a firm to fit this engine and they should have at least run it up to operating temp before giving it to you. So go for them first, If they say that they fully tested it first(they would be lying BTW) then go after the engine supplier, but don't bend over and take it from them cos one of them is to blame and not you mate!

just my 2p

Ira

 

also drop Zippy a line as he has Denis's no. , the ex mainland head mechanic

 

www.derekcarswell.co.uk/

Someones site off SIDC got pics of a full strip down and rebuild - might be handy?