drb5

iTrader: (4)

as above. instead of just rallying the car to death, what is the best way? i've heard of these "cans", but what else is there if i can't get a hold of these cans, as i should be getting the intake pipe replaced v. soon

stevem2k

a knocklink

drb5

iTrader: (4)

i've got one, m8. but the idea with the knocklink, is show you det as it's happening. just wondered if there was a safer alternative...no???

Delboy2

J & S Safeguard which John Banks is using. Listens and alters ignition on each cylinder individually from what I can gather

drb5

iTrader: (4)

cool where can i get one, or do i just ask nicely?

Delboy2

They are available from HERE You need to know what type of ignition system your car is using (Either 2 or 4 coils) Anyway have a read

drb5

iTrader: (4)

cheers bud. was hoping they would be a bit cheaper than that. maybe i'll ask john if he'll let me borrow it for a bit or something. or i could just wait ti february when i'm gettin me link installed

JohnnyR6

Have you had the car on the rollers? I took mine to ava and found out it was detting due to knackered maf and dodgy jap chip.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

maf was done a few months ago m8 and if it's a dodgy jap chip well they've done a good job of makin it look like a uk one

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

popcorn at the ready im dying to see wether this engine will make it till you get your link etc on

drb5

iTrader: (4)

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Damage from the faulty MAF is already done...it's cumulative

That J & S Safegaurd looks well impressive

[Edited by ALi-B - 12/28/2003 11:23:58 PM]

drb5

iTrader: (4)

what damage has it done?

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

hold on while i nip out for a choc bar

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I or you won't know I don't want to be too alarmist....

If the MAF was faulty, then your car will run incorrect fueling, and at it's worst lean at high revs, and det. The ECU may compensate, depending on how good the OS and knock sensors are. But obviously thats lost if you do any ECU resets or disconnect batteries etc.

Bottom line is: in worst cases det causes high combustion tempertures and melted pistons etc.

In less serious cases the big-end bearings are put under increased strain, causing more wear and may fail or wear out sooner. I've seen basic theory is that under too much strain, the layer of oil on which the bearings run on is squeezed out under the pressure and thus causes more metal on metal contact. This kind of damage is cumulative, and occurs over a period of time.

So if the det problem is cured (by replacing the MAF in this case). There maybe extra wear on the bearings caused by det, so the overall expected life of the engine is reduced.

It all depends on how badly it was detting and for how long it has been like that.

Rice Rocket..

How do you know if the MAF is not working?

and

stevebt PI$$ off if you have nothing important to say BAWBA9

Ricey

Bob Rawle

The easiest way to "check for det" is to use det cans, if you want to monitor for det then fit a KnockLink, if you are tuning then the tuning should be such that the car doesn't det in any case.

You can buy electronic cans but the knocklink is as good a monitor as any. If you are rallying then mapping should be the way.

The J & S safeguard is a bolt on which allows will react to det but ... its only as good as its settings and it DOES have to mapped and adjusted to react to real det sufficiently to deal with the events that occur.

It is not plug and play as it were.

cheers

bob

greasemonkey

There's only one way to monitor the onset of knock, and that's on a real time "as it's happening" basis; you can't get a device that magically predicts when it's going to happen if that's what you're thinking.

The only real difference is whether you rely on the ECU's inbuilt knock control (which we know to be inadequate), or a device like the Safeguard to handle it without the need for you to actually do anything, or whether you use a KnockLink or some det cans (impractical to drive with those on head all the time) to warn you of det, allowing you to contain the situation with your right foot.

The Safeguard works along similar general principles to the knock limiter already built into the ECU. The differences are that it's far more sensitive, is able to adjust the timing on a per-cylinder basis, and is easily user-adjustable.

nom

I think the thing to do is...
Tune the car with det-cans, and note how the KnockLink reacts to det when there is some.
Afterwards, always try to use the same fuel & keep an eye on the KnockLink at all times, but especially just after a fill-up in case of a bad batch of fuel. If the KnockLink starts behaving as though knock is more likely than usual (more flickery, etc.) then either drive like a wuss for the rest of the tank, or chuck in booster.
If in a situation where driving like a wuss or adding booster isn't possible, it's time for some very quick & inaccurate mapping to drag the timing back all over the place...

drb5

iTrader: (4)

cheers lads. i knew it was a bit of a duff question, but i still had to ask it. the new intake pipe has arrived and shall be going on sometime today. i will then give it an ecu reset and hope that everything is fine. i will slowly build up the heaviness of my right foot over the next few days as a just in, just incase measure. helps always appreciated people, thanks


drb5
pswill let u know how i get on