Hello ladds just fitted my dawes [impreza specific]AFR metre to my96 wrx.after fitting i started car, got no reading but i was expecting this as you have to let the sensor warm up 1st.well after letting it idle 4 awile i started up the road and it began reading the lambda....at normal cruising speed at about 2500 to 3000 rpm i got the red light comeing on and off eraticly, i then floor it i got 1st amber then after abit green but then as it neared red line it dropped back to amber.....then after about 5 miles the reading became les sensative hardly even getting the red light to come on and only reading amber at WOT.

when idling it reads nothing [i was told to expect a fluctuating up and down on the meter]?if i blip the throttle it goes to red after a second then drops away again.Never at any time did i get the blue light.
The car idles resonably ok and goes quite well however,i also fitted my decat zorst system this week and didnt get the gains i was expecting,isnt noticably more responsive just no power fade off at about 6250 rpm[power all the way 2 the red line].
What do u guys make of this?Is it my oxygen sensor knackred?

ITS WORRYING ME LOTS WOULD APRECIATE YOUR INPUT.

Also i wired it up using sterio [live] and running a wire directly from the battery for the [earth] and attatching the signal wire directly to the lambda signal wire.

also ive got a knocklink fitted and it never rises above 1st greenso its not detting if it was running so week wouldnt it be detting???[Edited by mr smash - 12/15/2003 5:05:17 PM]

[Edited by mr smash - 12/15/2003 11:50:20 PM]

[Edited by mr smash - 12/16/2003 12:05:51 AM]

 

ANY TAKERS

 

You've definitely got the correct wire...? If you have, certainly sounds like a knackered lambda. They usually under read similarly to what you've described when they're on their way. Wouldn't make any difference to your top end WOT though, as that's controlled by your MAF and ignition/fuel/boost maps.

What's your fuel consumption like? Although, when mine went, there weren't any noticable symptoms other than the AFR not doing what it should, but others have noticed a big drop in MPG, and also a slight surging hesitation on light throttle acceleration, particularly when cold.

The fact your Knocklink is quiet is a good sign though.

 

Mine does similar with a combination of items on in the car..
Lights, stereo, heatered rear screen etc..

I need to rewire it.. might be your wiring.. where did you take the power from?

run two wires from the battery and try it to confirm..

Otherwise you are very lean or your Lambda is knackered indeed.

JGM

 

thanks ladds on reflection i think its fecked becuase on idle souldnt it be fluctuating right up and down?It dosent even light up the red ligh....iff i blip the throttle slighty it will light [after a second then go off emediately]ive read that it s on open loop on idle so the lambda should be up and down.What does yours do, does it reach the blue led when its fluctuating?

ill run a power fron the battery 2 instead of using the sterio live .
just 2 be sure.

ohh and im not sure about fuel consumption becuase ive just imported it and got it on the road[havent worked out mpg yet]:{

[Edited by mr smash - 12/16/2003 1:18:08 PM]

 

JGM

 

The Dawes AFR differs from mine (Autometer) so can't comment on what you should be seeing. My scale is from 0 to 1 volt in 0.05 increments, so yes, mine goes all over the shop on idle and part throttle. When WOT though, it hits green smack bang in the middle (about 0.85 to 0.90 volts).

Also, you've got your open and closed loop scenarios the wrong way round!

 

Oops.. short lunchtime so I only scan read.. sorry..

Sounds like it is fooked then..



JGM

 

hehe ohh yes "cough" closed loop

 

 

My Dawes AFR.. red light on or flashing on idle..

Blue on WOT.. dances around on medium throttle etc..

JGM

 

ok just checked wireing ran its own live wire from battery and soldred every conection..still reads the same...on idle no red light on wot it gets 2 the green only.....cruising in 4th and 5th gets the red light flashing on and off like a car alarm led but obviously this is quite irratic.

AS AN AFTER THAUGHT ...the wire im useing to take the signal from the sensor to the unit is slightly thicker than the units wire [im no electrition]would this cause a drop in voltage 2 the unit from the sensor?
the dawes AFR is callibrated as follows.
1st[red]=.79v-.83v

2nd[yellow]=.83v-.85v

3rd[green]=.85v-.87v

4th[blue]=.87v to the limit of sensor.

[Edited by mr smash - 12/16/2003 4:58:57 PM]

 

Just found this info...

First light: Red = .78 to .90v
Second light: Yellow = .90 to .94v
Third light: Green = .94 to .98v
Fourth light: Blue = .98v and up

Worryingly, my during WOT, my Autometer rich display would be classed as red light on a Dawes... Although my Knocklink's quiet. Is that my AE802 retarding as necessary?

 

That makes more sense Smashy.

 

what makes more sence the slight diffrence in wire thickness?or the diffrence in voltage between our afr guages?
the afr unit i got is a dawes impreza specific as aposed 2 their normal afr anybody else got this ?i d be interested 2 know what reading they are getting.

 

HMM just read a few threads on lambda voltages and it seems the readings im getting are actualy quite normalit seems on ide u should getbetween 0 to 0.7 volts[which wouldnt light up the red light]
while cruising 0.4 to0.7[[which it does fluctuates turning red on and off]and on WOT in the 0.8 erea[green light]

strange though that dawes would make the unit so the blue wouldnt be in realistic voltage rang especialy an impreza specific?
of course im just quoteing what som1 else got[my97].

 

It sounds like the afr you have is not for the impreza as there are two types .

Mark

 

Im not so sure now..looking at the online instructions the standard afr has even higher voltage range..www.dawesdevices.com/instructions.html.

i think im ok?

 

My comment was based on the voltages I found, which if were correct, would put the Autometer in the category of "brave", as my readings are often around the 0.85 mark, which as far as the Dawes is concerned is a red light! But the voltages you have found seem more like it. The Autometer rich region is between 0.75v and 1.0v, which let's face it, is a tad on the lean side in part...

 

[autometer rich region between .75 and 1.0 v]mine would be ok on your meter then hmmm.i i put up another thread on the dawes impreza specific AFR to see what other people get and the guy who replied says he gets blue light on part throttle[minimum of .87v]...so the doubt has crept back in again.

 

If he's getting blue on part throttle, that sounds a bit on the rich side. It's difficult isn't it? Everyone has different ages/models/mods/gauges, making comparisons a nightmare! But going back to your Knocklink, if that's quiet, I wouldn't be massively concerned. If that was spiking at all, different story.

If you could get hold of some diagnostic equipment, you could get the actual voltages, to prove whether it's your lambda that's buggered, or your AFR wiring/AFR itself...

 

Have you made sure you got a good earth connected ??? I found it a right nightmare finding a good earth source around the ECU housing. Try earthing straight on the battery and connecting to the source.

I know Bob Rawle has ran a seperate earth to his ECU mounting bracket, and I was considering the same

Phill

 

Oh and if you got the Dawes AFM from JR Racing they are calibrated specifically as per John Banks recommendations. Mine has a WRX sticker on it. I think you'll find it doesn't matter what MY you have, they are for ALL Impreza (if labelled WRX). Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here You might have an AFM that isn't calibrated for an Impreza, but doubt Jamie would have made that mistake

Phill

 

my earthis ok i ran its own wire direct from the battery and soldred the conection....my afr dosent have a wrx sticker on it though...im going 2 get a voltmeter on the sensor this afternoon that should tell me if the volts from the sensor corespond with what the unit is reading.