boost wont go over 0.9 bar
#1
Can anyone help.....
I had been running a my00 turbo full de-cat kn cone filter with the dawes set to about 1.1bar for about a year everything fine (mucho fasto)
I then bought a second hand ECUTEK 3 ecu that had been mapped on a very similiar car to mine (mod wise)
I fitted it with the dawes device in place and gave a dawes a turn to increase the boost a bit....
I set of and warmed her up as usual then when i had the chance gave it full boost WOT
It seemed to be ok for a short while boosting to about 1.15bar to 1.2Bar but then it started backing the boost off and hestitating as if it could not hold the boost it got worse until it was kangarooing if i put my foot down and the boost wnet over 0.9
hmmm
So I took the dawes of and gave boost control back to the solenoid this produced just the same effect....
Replaced the original ECU but it was still doing it anything over 0.9bar and it kangaroos and drops the boost down over and over quickly
I am now back with the ECUTEK 3 with the dawes set to about 0.9bar and everything runs lovely but if i try even a little bit more boost it all starts going wrong again
SO
It cannt be the dawes or the solenoid
What else could cause this over 0.9 bar ?? -- Wastegate not closing propelly under the high boost ??
Oh and I have fitted new pipes between turbo nipple, dawes, and acctuator - good quality pneumatic hose ( same inside dia as OEM)
Help ??? please
Tal
Anyone know any good specialists in the north east ?? (Subaru dealer will say return it to standard !!!)
I had been running a my00 turbo full de-cat kn cone filter with the dawes set to about 1.1bar for about a year everything fine (mucho fasto)
I then bought a second hand ECUTEK 3 ecu that had been mapped on a very similiar car to mine (mod wise)
I fitted it with the dawes device in place and gave a dawes a turn to increase the boost a bit....
I set of and warmed her up as usual then when i had the chance gave it full boost WOT
It seemed to be ok for a short while boosting to about 1.15bar to 1.2Bar but then it started backing the boost off and hestitating as if it could not hold the boost it got worse until it was kangarooing if i put my foot down and the boost wnet over 0.9
hmmm
So I took the dawes of and gave boost control back to the solenoid this produced just the same effect....
Replaced the original ECU but it was still doing it anything over 0.9bar and it kangaroos and drops the boost down over and over quickly
I am now back with the ECUTEK 3 with the dawes set to about 0.9bar and everything runs lovely but if i try even a little bit more boost it all starts going wrong again
SO
It cannt be the dawes or the solenoid
What else could cause this over 0.9 bar ?? -- Wastegate not closing propelly under the high boost ??
Oh and I have fitted new pipes between turbo nipple, dawes, and acctuator - good quality pneumatic hose ( same inside dia as OEM)
Help ??? please
Tal
Anyone know any good specialists in the north east ?? (Subaru dealer will say return it to standard !!!)
#2
When was the last time the plugs were replaced, sounds ignition related. Does it hit 0.9 bar and hold it near that, fluctuating a little but never going over? If it does that, and feels flat in the process it sounds like ignition.
It would be worth checking for air leaks too, as it might be leaning out.
Could also be dodgy/dirty injector.
Paul
It would be worth checking for air leaks too, as it might be leaning out.
Could also be dodgy/dirty injector.
Paul
#3
No it tries to go to 1.2 bar and judders (not like fuel cut) feels like its not getting enough fuel ??
cant see why it would run on full boost with the dawes turned down (i.e. 0.9 bar) perfectly but anymore boost and it starts stuttering
cant see why it would run on full boost with the dawes turned down (i.e. 0.9 bar) perfectly but anymore boost and it starts stuttering
#5
Just to clarify,
You said 'Boost wont go over 0.9 bar'
When really you mean 1.2 bar?
The problem with spark related issues, is that the higher the cylinder pressure is, the harder it is for the spark to jump the plug gap. SO often, when the boost goes over a certain threshold, it just misfires, and basically stutters at the boost threshold, because boost feeds boost if you see what i mean.
Having said that, it also sounds a little like MAF symptons.
If you are not used to working on your car, then i would suggest you get some new plugs in. If you can do your own plugs, then whip them out, inspect and check the gap. They do erode over time, but your's sounds quite severe.
If you were to gap your existing plugs right down, to say 0.5mm and this cures the problem, you know it's an ignition problem. In which case look at new plugs, possibly leads and a coil.
Plugs can also get cracked, the crack will not insulate all that well, and sometimes the spark energy will disipate through the outside of the plug. Especially if it's easier for the spark to do that than jump the actual plug gap, and it may be at high(er) boost.
Having said all that, there are very few people that have problems with the ignition system itself on the 99/00 cars. SO it could be as simple as a plug change.
You haven't by chance recently had to fill up with ordinary unleaded have you?
Paul
You said 'Boost wont go over 0.9 bar'
When really you mean 1.2 bar?
The problem with spark related issues, is that the higher the cylinder pressure is, the harder it is for the spark to jump the plug gap. SO often, when the boost goes over a certain threshold, it just misfires, and basically stutters at the boost threshold, because boost feeds boost if you see what i mean.
Having said that, it also sounds a little like MAF symptons.
If you are not used to working on your car, then i would suggest you get some new plugs in. If you can do your own plugs, then whip them out, inspect and check the gap. They do erode over time, but your's sounds quite severe.
If you were to gap your existing plugs right down, to say 0.5mm and this cures the problem, you know it's an ignition problem. In which case look at new plugs, possibly leads and a coil.
Plugs can also get cracked, the crack will not insulate all that well, and sometimes the spark energy will disipate through the outside of the plug. Especially if it's easier for the spark to do that than jump the actual plug gap, and it may be at high(er) boost.
Having said all that, there are very few people that have problems with the ignition system itself on the 99/00 cars. SO it could be as simple as a plug change.
You haven't by chance recently had to fill up with ordinary unleaded have you?
Paul
#7
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hey i got a similar problem ... 0.8 bar the car runs fine but 0.9 bar and above the car judders ... gonna check out the sparks and stuff again ... :>
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#10
UPDATE
Had new spark plugs fitted NGKPFR7B
took it out felt better even at 0.9bar
turmed the dawes devices to about 1 bar
Fine pulled cleanly all gears even 5th up hill WOT to silly speeds
turned dawes up again
everything fine with a bit more ummmfff (1.1bar)
Turned dawes up again (getting towards its max adjustment)
everything seemed fine hitting 1.2bar WOT in fifth (pulling like a train)
THEN it started hesitating again AAAAAAAAAArggghhh
all gears
backed the dawes down to about 1.1 but its still doing it !!
What next new MAF ?? but tick over seems fine (occasional dips but nothing major)
Tal
Had new spark plugs fitted NGKPFR7B
took it out felt better even at 0.9bar
turmed the dawes devices to about 1 bar
Fine pulled cleanly all gears even 5th up hill WOT to silly speeds
turned dawes up again
everything fine with a bit more ummmfff (1.1bar)
Turned dawes up again (getting towards its max adjustment)
everything seemed fine hitting 1.2bar WOT in fifth (pulling like a train)
THEN it started hesitating again AAAAAAAAAArggghhh
all gears
backed the dawes down to about 1.1 but its still doing it !!
What next new MAF ?? but tick over seems fine (occasional dips but nothing major)
Tal
#11
Ocassional dips may be 'a sign'.
Do you have any way of measuring the AFR? Or knock?
You might try resetting the ECU & then seeing how the idle is. If it's worse, your MAF may well be buggered. If the reset makes little difference, it might still be that, but quite possibly something else as well. But drive carefully after resetting the ECU - I'd personally be a little concerned that the previous car might have been able to take more advance from the ECU than yours (doesn't necessarily mean anything...) - although this is only a possibility, it's not worth risking.
Another 'sign' that something is not right fuel-wise is if the ECU drops boost control - you can only notice this if the Dawes isn't running boost, obviously. If the boost is at 1.2 bar (or wsomewhere near there) and then suddenly drops to 0.7ish, the ECU is 'panicing', probably because it detected enough det/had to retard for long enough it decides the fuel's not up to scrath (or the mix is too lean - ie MAF problems) that it drops boost to save any possible engine troubles.
Certainly, until this is sorted, I do't think it's a good idea to run the Dawes - a great little device when all's well, but the good bit (removing control from the ECU) can also be the bad bit...
Do you have any way of measuring the AFR? Or knock?
You might try resetting the ECU & then seeing how the idle is. If it's worse, your MAF may well be buggered. If the reset makes little difference, it might still be that, but quite possibly something else as well. But drive carefully after resetting the ECU - I'd personally be a little concerned that the previous car might have been able to take more advance from the ECU than yours (doesn't necessarily mean anything...) - although this is only a possibility, it's not worth risking.
Another 'sign' that something is not right fuel-wise is if the ECU drops boost control - you can only notice this if the Dawes isn't running boost, obviously. If the boost is at 1.2 bar (or wsomewhere near there) and then suddenly drops to 0.7ish, the ECU is 'panicing', probably because it detected enough det/had to retard for long enough it decides the fuel's not up to scrath (or the mix is too lean - ie MAF problems) that it drops boost to save any possible engine troubles.
Certainly, until this is sorted, I do't think it's a good idea to run the Dawes - a great little device when all's well, but the good bit (removing control from the ECU) can also be the bad bit...
#12
I have just had another thought
Are your sure there aren't any leaks between the turbo & inlet manifold? Turning the boost (via the Dawes) wayyy up might mean the turbo's going nuts, but the boost pressure's escaping (hence the dropping boost). And you may have mad inlet temps - not good - so might be worth checking this? The mixture would also be 'interesting' if this is happening so could give the other hiccuping/kangarooing you're getting.
The standard pipes around the intercooler have been known to split at anything much over 1 bar, if you're still using them?
[Edited by nom - 11/29/2003 10:15:17 AM]
Are your sure there aren't any leaks between the turbo & inlet manifold? Turning the boost (via the Dawes) wayyy up might mean the turbo's going nuts, but the boost pressure's escaping (hence the dropping boost). And you may have mad inlet temps - not good - so might be worth checking this? The mixture would also be 'interesting' if this is happening so could give the other hiccuping/kangarooing you're getting.
The standard pipes around the intercooler have been known to split at anything much over 1 bar, if you're still using them?
[Edited by nom - 11/29/2003 10:15:17 AM]
#13
Thanks for the quick reply
I think I will replace the MAF as it has been running with a cone filter for three years now
Then see
If i remove the dawes I have no control over boost so it trys to get to boost target about 1.2bar and will go crazy at least with the dawes in I can set it to safe levels
I have replaced the front and side hoses with samco but the lower Y hose(under the intercooler) is standard
Tal
I think I will replace the MAF as it has been running with a cone filter for three years now
Then see
If i remove the dawes I have no control over boost so it trys to get to boost target about 1.2bar and will go crazy at least with the dawes in I can set it to safe levels
I have replaced the front and side hoses with samco but the lower Y hose(under the intercooler) is standard
Tal
#14
I think it's probably the 'y' hose that's most likely to blow - it has all the heat from the engine etc. & will also have the highest pressure across it. Might be an idea to have a look at it, just to check?
#16
Ecu Specialist
Whilst the mods may have been similar the ecu will/should be car specific, have you checked the fueling etc that the car has ? Sounds as though it could be even too rich from your description but if the Tek 3 has been set up for a three port solenoid and you run a two port then that explains the oscillating, the problem that occurs with the Dawes installed is fueling related, suggest you get someone with Deltadash to check it out for you before damage is done.
bob
bob
#17
arrrrgh the bob rawle thanks for your guru reply !!
John (the scotish guru) thinks the ecu car change is ok
is it worth replacing the maf
I think a visit to Bobs is due ??
John (the scotish guru) thinks the ecu car change is ok
is it worth replacing the maf
I think a visit to Bobs is due ??
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