Oil Pressure/Oil Temperature gauge
10 January 2001, 12:49 AM
#1
Looks like i've asked the same question in Genral Questions today.
Saw the gauge at DC Cooks Silvestone for about £160.
They told me it has electrical connections, rather than mechanical. Does anyone know if the connections can be piggybacked onto the existing Scooby sensors?
Saw the gauge at DC Cooks Silvestone for about £160.
They told me it has electrical connections, rather than mechanical. Does anyone know if the connections can be piggybacked onto the existing Scooby sensors?
10 January 2001, 12:35 PM
#2
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Found this at ScoobyMania:
How difficult would it be to wire up one with a digital display? I know it says it's supplied with sensors, looms, manuals, etc, but is there anything there that can't be done by someone who doesn't know one end of a spanner from another?
Anyone done this, or can advise who can do it?
Thanks
Andy
[This message has been edited by Andy Tang (edited 10 January 2001).]
How difficult would it be to wire up one with a digital display? I know it says it's supplied with sensors, looms, manuals, etc, but is there anything there that can't be done by someone who doesn't know one end of a spanner from another?
Anyone done this, or can advise who can do it?
Thanks
Andy
[This message has been edited by Andy Tang (edited 10 January 2001).]
10 January 2001, 03:40 PM
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Hi Andy.
To answer your questions:
How difficult? Not that difficult really, you need an ignition live & an earth.
Then you need to route the wires to the respective points, they have fixed plugs on them (at both ends) and there's plenty to reach the necessary areas with some to spare.
Oil Pressure sensor, remove OEM item behind alternator and simply bolt the new one in place. Being careful not to drop any crap into the open oil hole.
Oil temp sensor, same again but sensor fixing needs to be considered. You can either remove the sump and braze the sensor into a fitting (1/8 NPT, 27 TPI) in the sump itself, or you can fit an engineered 'Hybrid' sump bung which has been machined to accept the (tapered thread) supplied sensor.
We are having these manufactured/adapted at the moment to carry the supplied sensor with these kits. (They will be circa £15.00).
You will need to know one end of a spanner from the other!
We (
To answer your questions:
How difficult? Not that difficult really, you need an ignition live & an earth.
Then you need to route the wires to the respective points, they have fixed plugs on them (at both ends) and there's plenty to reach the necessary areas with some to spare.
Oil Pressure sensor, remove OEM item behind alternator and simply bolt the new one in place. Being careful not to drop any crap into the open oil hole.
Oil temp sensor, same again but sensor fixing needs to be considered. You can either remove the sump and braze the sensor into a fitting (1/8 NPT, 27 TPI) in the sump itself, or you can fit an engineered 'Hybrid' sump bung which has been machined to accept the (tapered thread) supplied sensor.
We are having these manufactured/adapted at the moment to carry the supplied sensor with these kits. (They will be circa £15.00).
You will need to know one end of a spanner from the other!
We (
11 January 2001, 08:24 AM
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Butty,
The existing sender for oil pressure is just a switch that connects to earth once pressure is too low. You'd have to replace it to get any reading at all.
As Mike says, it's a fairly simple operation. I'm a mechanical idiot, as Mike can vouch for, and dislike touching anything oily, but I managed it.
Again, see <A HREF=http://www.chiark.com/scooby/gauges.asp>my Autometer fitting guide</A> for what's involved.
Even a dunce can do it.
Drop me a mail if you want any more; that goes for you too Andy.
Nick.
The existing sender for oil pressure is just a switch that connects to earth once pressure is too low. You'd have to replace it to get any reading at all.
As Mike says, it's a fairly simple operation. I'm a mechanical idiot, as Mike can vouch for, and dislike touching anything oily, but I managed it.
Again, see <A HREF=http://www.chiark.com/scooby/gauges.asp>my Autometer fitting guide</A> for what's involved.
Even a dunce can do it.
Drop me a mail if you want any more; that goes for you too Andy.
Nick.
12 January 2001, 05:07 PM
#7
Thanks for all answers - but it has raised another one.
For the oil temp tapping, does the sump need to be taken off, otherwise how do you stop debris getting into the engine??
As I am not an engineer, could someone enlighten me please.
Also, will there be guidance as to where the tapping should go to avoid picking up a cold spot on the sump. I have heard that cylinder 3 is the hottest spot, would this be the best point to aim for the tapping?
Nick
For the oil temp tapping, does the sump need to be taken off, otherwise how do you stop debris getting into the engine??
As I am not an engineer, could someone enlighten me please.
Also, will there be guidance as to where the tapping should go to avoid picking up a cold spot on the sump. I have heard that cylinder 3 is the hottest spot, would this be the best point to aim for the tapping?
Nick
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12 January 2001, 06:06 PM
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Butty.
If you want to mount your sensor into the sump itself (as opposed to the sump bung), you will need to completely remove the sump.
Sump temperatures will be fairly even throughout, you would need to be fitting it in the lowest, safest (from road debris damage) location possible.
Mike.
If you want to mount your sensor into the sump itself (as opposed to the sump bung), you will need to completely remove the sump.
Sump temperatures will be fairly even throughout, you would need to be fitting it in the lowest, safest (from road debris damage) location possible.
Mike.
16 January 2001, 09:02 PM
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Ive just been scrambling around under my 94 Sti trying to fathom the ins and outs with this SPA Guage. most of it is clear to me, except for the exact location of the blank that is to be replaced with scoobymanias own temperature sensor holding bung, my sump has no blanks or bungs or anything in it, but there is a plug/blank just above the top of the passenger side of the sump, it faces downwards, is roughly just over an inch in diameter and has a hex socket in the center of it roughly 1/4 to 1/2 an inch in diameter.
On the righthand side (its symmetrical opposite) - this is the hole used in piping oil to the filter.
Can ayone who knows about early STis confirm for me weather or not this is the blank to be replaced?
Thanks, Alex
On the righthand side (its symmetrical opposite) - this is the hole used in piping oil to the filter.
Can ayone who knows about early STis confirm for me weather or not this is the blank to be replaced?
Thanks, Alex
17 January 2001, 02:13 PM
#11
After the last two messages I realise I have been a bit of a muppet!! Course there is a hole in the sump already for the temp sensor.
Mike, you were very patient in explaining what to do without calling me thick - but perhaps you have had considerable experience of this with many a customer.
Mike, you were very patient in explaining what to do without calling me thick - but perhaps you have had considerable experience of this with many a customer.
17 January 2001, 08:07 PM
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I was looking for a blank of sorts, and the one I described isnt in the sump at all, I didnt suppose for a second it was meant to be drilled into the drain plug itself - is this not vunerable here?
18 January 2001, 01:45 PM
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Hi
What's better - electrical or mechanical gauges and why?
Mike (or anyone else in the know) - are the Scoobymania "Phantom" and "Ultra-lite" gauges completely backlit? I would be seriously interested in these but looking at the nightime pics of these gauges in Stef's motor, it seems that only the edges are illuminated - not the actual face, unlike the speedo/rev counter ie you can't see the needle/reading very clear.
Thanks
What's better - electrical or mechanical gauges and why?
Mike (or anyone else in the know) - are the Scoobymania "Phantom" and "Ultra-lite" gauges completely backlit? I would be seriously interested in these but looking at the nightime pics of these gauges in Stef's motor, it seems that only the edges are illuminated - not the actual face, unlike the speedo/rev counter ie you can't see the needle/reading very clear.
Thanks
18 January 2001, 02:37 PM
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Ernie,
I have an Ultra Lite Boost gauge. The gauge lets the light in from the edges of the face, and I think that the photo you have seen does not do it any justice!!
It's very clear and easy to read at night!
Failing that I'm sure there's someone near you who has a similar gauge fitted. Maybe worth a look.
Andy
PS - Would say look at mine, but it's in for repairs at the moment!!
I have an Ultra Lite Boost gauge. The gauge lets the light in from the edges of the face, and I think that the photo you have seen does not do it any justice!!
It's very clear and easy to read at night!
Failing that I'm sure there's someone near you who has a similar gauge fitted. Maybe worth a look.
Andy
PS - Would say look at mine, but it's in for repairs at the moment!!
19 January 2001, 10:02 PM
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Hi guys,
new to site and proud owner of a modded Cat (1 month owned)
Just seen Chiark's gauge site, really cool!
I wonder if you could help?
I need a gauge set up for the Cat: boost in the right hand corner and oil temp, oil pres, and vac all in black faces to sit on top of the middle of the dash if possible.....the problem is that I just don't have the time to do this myself and have no patience under the bonnet.
Is there anywhere or any one who could provide me with the above as a service????
please help!!!
TopCat
new to site and proud owner of a modded Cat (1 month owned)
Just seen Chiark's gauge site, really cool!
I wonder if you could help?
I need a gauge set up for the Cat: boost in the right hand corner and oil temp, oil pres, and vac all in black faces to sit on top of the middle of the dash if possible.....the problem is that I just don't have the time to do this myself and have no patience under the bonnet.
Is there anywhere or any one who could provide me with the above as a service????
please help!!!
TopCat
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