what else for safety sake
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Not gone mad with the engine mods (sports cat down pipe, de-cat mid section, Green panel filter and soon a scoobyecu) and not really planning much else.
I want to keep it as 'strong' as possible. Also as safe as possible so what is best to have, Knocklink, guages.....?
My car is a 95 jap import wrx.
I want to keep it as 'strong' as possible. Also as safe as possible so what is best to have, Knocklink, guages.....?
My car is a 95 jap import wrx.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,122
Likes: 0
From: where the wild roses grow
Yep, knowledge is your friend as far as the engine is concerned. The more you know, the more confident you are that the engine is running within safe parameters (and the earlier you'll be alerted if it isn't).
KnockLink, AFR meter and a good boost gauge first. Oil temp and pressure too if you can stretch to them.
KnockLink, AFR meter and a good boost gauge first. Oil temp and pressure too if you can stretch to them.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,122
Likes: 0
From: where the wild roses grow
There's only one KnockLink, so that takes care of that. Think there's a group buy in General including the sensor.
There is a difference in AFR meters - the LED ones that show the entire 0-1V range are next to useless as anything other than eye candy, as they normally don't have enough resolution in the key 0.8-1v area.
Of the commercial AFR meters, the Dawes "Subaru specific" one shows close to the ideal range of voltages, although if you are reasonably competent with a soldering iron you can make something just as good for less than £10.
Boost gauges, again, there's often a difference between the cheap 'n' nasty not very accurate stuff you may find in your local Max Muppet shop, and the rest. Needle gauges are easier to read in a hurry, and show boost build/peaking more clearly than digital display ones. I use a Blitz compact digital, but there are no doubt plenty of good cheaper ones.
There is a difference in AFR meters - the LED ones that show the entire 0-1V range are next to useless as anything other than eye candy, as they normally don't have enough resolution in the key 0.8-1v area.
Of the commercial AFR meters, the Dawes "Subaru specific" one shows close to the ideal range of voltages, although if you are reasonably competent with a soldering iron you can make something just as good for less than £10.
Boost gauges, again, there's often a difference between the cheap 'n' nasty not very accurate stuff you may find in your local Max Muppet shop, and the rest. Needle gauges are easier to read in a hurry, and show boost build/peaking more clearly than digital display ones. I use a Blitz compact digital, but there are no doubt plenty of good cheaper ones.
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 0
Can I suggest that once you have the Knocklink (at least) and ideally the AFR & Boost gauge, you invest in a www.scoobyecu.co.uk
It costs less than £100, is relatively easy to fit (in most cases) and will correct your Fuel map to UK spec, and usually make your car more driveable into the bargain.
Best thing to do is goto www.scoobyecu.co.uk and see what they can do for you: could save the life of your engine
It costs less than £100, is relatively easy to fit (in most cases) and will correct your Fuel map to UK spec, and usually make your car more driveable into the bargain.
Best thing to do is goto www.scoobyecu.co.uk and see what they can do for you: could save the life of your engine
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post