martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

I have a MY98 5dr turbo and have £1000 to spend on getting a bit more power.
In reality, I think I'd be happy with 250bhp, but from what I read, the MY98 has a smaller turbo, so tuning to this level isn't as easy as on pre '97 and post '99 cars.....is this true??
I expect an exhaust (de-cat) will be the way to go and then what?? ECU??
Has anyone out there in Scoobyland tuned a MY98 and what were the results?

Hope someone can help.
Cheers

Marty

greasemonkey

You'll need a fair bit more than a grand to be able to afford an ECU change. Figure on the far side of £1500 for the box, bits and map.

With what you've got to spend, start with a good decatted exhaust system, decent panel filter, Dawes device, good boost gauge, AFR meter and KnockLink.

Could be big variations in how much that lot will cost, but working on the basis that it'll be in the region of £700, you'll have enough left over for some good front brake discs and pads to handle the extra go.

With the Dawes allowing you to push the boost a bit, you'll have the potential for 265-280bhp and very handy gains in low and midrange torque. How far you go will depend on the fuel you use and your engine's resistance to det. The KnockLink and AFR meter will enable you to keep it from eating itself.

Incidentally, the post-'99 Turbos and New Age WRX's still use the TD04 turbo. You're correct in thinking it's limited in ultimate boost potential, but given your budget I'd suggest there's little point changing.

A TD05 from a scrap merchant may be an option, but TBH unless you're going for much bigger power levels, the smaller turbo will probably give you better throttle response.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 8/17/2003 1:46:09 AM]

Stealth

iTrader: (4)

Dude, if you are going to spend £1500 notes on an ECU you will not need a dawes device, everything can be mapped from the ECU!
IMHO Dawes devices are a bad bit of kit and the wrong way to go.

Alternativly you can get hold of someone on here that dabbles with ECU's and see what you get (Pavlo, Dave Wallis and such like)

You wanna be looking for a Full decat would be a good place to start, with an open neck 3" DP and something along the lines of a HKS centre and back box your car will start to react differently. The turbo will start to spool quicker/earlier on in the rev range and it wil make a very nice noise

Then a decent induction kit with a Heat shield, I think K&N have bought out a new generaion of Kits called the FIPK2, it comes complete with a heat shield and what not!

Unless you are gonna go for mental power you should get away with staying with the smaller turbo

You should be able to get the zorst, induction kit for around the £700 mark and then you need to get the chip, keep look on the for sale board for bargains... they are few and far between but you may get lucky

Good luck

rayman_2

lower your induction charge get a FMIC !!!! you will not regret it....

barge

none

get some big brakes

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

OK, so the car needs 4 pots!!!!!!!

I'd rather have more power and torque for overtaking, etc before I start braking really late into corners. I'm not looking for super power levels, just a reasonable amount.

I find the standard brakes ok for now and unless I drive really hard, don't suppose I'll benefit from 4 pots just yet.

Has anyone used Graham Goode Racing modified ECU's???? They have stage/phase 1 which they claim gives 30bhp. More with exhaust/induction kit.


[Edited by martyrobertsdj - 8/17/2003 11:35:27 PM]

greasemonkey

You should be able to get a set with discs and pads for around £250-300, still leaving you with that £700 or so for go faster bits.

Decatting and fitting the Dawes will give you a useful gain in spool-up and midrange torque.

No personal experience of the GGR kit, but it sounds a bit like a Tek2 type "off the shelf" remap. Doing this sort of thing before the exhaust and intake is a bit like trying to put the cart before the horse. You'll get a more noticeable improvement from doing the exhaust and intake first...

[Edited by greasemonkey - 8/18/2003 12:13:47 AM]

Richard Curtis

Marty,


The power your looking for need not cost the earth.

One option to consider is a Unichip, new with a boost controller for £550 from owen developments (do a search). A very good value for money option still giving you flexibility should you want to spend more later on more exotic upgrades.

I've been running a UK97 (same engine as 98) with a Unichip + Dawes + decat exhaust for over a year giving around 250bhp with no problems at all.

Got the unichip secondhand for £150, dawes for £50, complete exhaust £450 (secondhand - but a very nice exhaust ).

£200 for a fitting and mapping the unichip (at powerstation)

Was giving out more power than a MY99 with a TEK2 at a recent dyno run (powerstation)

Keep your eye out on the for sale section of scoobynet for dawes, unichip and decat exhaust, you can save quite a bit.

Rich

CTRnutter

Induction kit,

Bov - only bother with sequential, as this gives rise in boost during gear changes.

Turbo Back exhaust system,

ECUTEK 3 Remap

This should give you the power you are after, i would also get some guages fitted so you can see what is going on, as well,

but i think you are looking closer to 1900-2000 notes.

Breaks will need to be upgraded after this though, but i wouldn't have said changing them first will have any major benefit

john banks

2nd hand full decat (I sold my full Magnex for £240)
Intercooler hoses (I sold mine for £50)
Knocklink (£80 2nd hand)
Boost gauge (£35 new)
Fuel cut defender (HKS £50 2nd hand)
Water injection (£280 new see Scoobyshop)
Dawes manual boost controller (£25 second hand)
Dawes AFR meter (£40 second hand)

Total price £800 if you install it all yourself. The only aspects of setting up are to leave the knocklink on maximum sensitivity, choose the water nozzle size and boost trigger point with the water injection supplier, adjust turbo actuator for desired top end boost (don't go over 1 bar at 6000 RPM), adjust Dawes for midrange boost (start at 1 bar and work up until you get to 1.25 bar or the knocklink lights up or the AFR gauge indicates it is lean). Set HKS FCD to just get rid of fuel cut and then another click.

This should get you between 270 and 290 BHP and lbft depending on the dyno, and it should be reliable because I suggested the components above based on leaving a lot of safety in the setup.

Leaves you with £200 towards some 4 pots/discs/pads, alternatively this should cover your labour for installing everything - you just then set the Dawes to the boost as described above - suggest 1.25 bar or as limited by fuelling or knock.

I specify water injection because it is cheaper than a remap and very effective with TMICs to allow you to run the suggested 1.25 bar - on a standard ECU with Optimax it would very possibly det or get a bit hot.

I have not specified a fuel pump and regulator because the standard setup would probably cope fine at this level, but that is why there is an AFR meter and knocklink.

I have specified the HKS fuel cut defender because this retains a fuel cut, but it is raised not abolished like the previous Superchips.

You could still get more with a mapped ECU, but I have avoided this in the above list by selecting other parts which can work without quite well.

Different ways of doing things as always.

SiHethers

Marty

I second John's advice, as it is just about the setup I have, albeit on a MY99. Only difference is I use NF octane booster to prevent det instead of water injection. Should be just as safe but will give better power/torque compared to WI without a remap. In addition, since using NF, my fuel consumption has improved so I get an extra 30 miles between fill ups, which pays for the cost of the NF despite running 1.25-1.3 bar boost My only other recommendation, if budget will allow is a forge recirc dump valve, because my original one was leaking above 1.1 bar, reducing the efficiency of the turbo.

With the above I have 50lbft more peak torque, and 40bhp more peak power, at the wheels (measured by deltadash road dyno). More importantly I've got more than 200lbft wheel torque between 2800 and 5700 rpm.

Simon

john banks

Fair point re the NF Simon, but there is a flip side... with NF you will still have very high charge temperatures, also the MY98 intercooler is a bit less capable than the MY99. With water injection and the higher boost that is run I think it would add power not detract as the ignition timing cannot usually support this level of boost. If you run water on a car that is not detting or likely to det and do not advance the ignition you would indeed lose power. In addition, water is more potent at detonation suppression than "normal" doses of NF.

jonny gav

iTrader: (1)

martyrobertsdj- drop me an e-mail and i am sure i can point you in the right direction as i am in co Durham too!

also look at www.tyneteesscoobies.com too for more things going on in the north east.

we are meeting tomorrow night at revolution motorstore in Gateshead at around 7:30pm if you are interested, its free to join too!!!

hope to see you there

jonny

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

See you there Jonny !!

Marty

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

Jonny,

I was there, but don't think I spoke to you!!

It looks like the cheaper alternative is going to be Dawes device, knocklink, fuel cut thingy, full de-cat exhaust and a filter.
Do I need an AFR thingumybob and will all this run with 95ron fuel, or will I have to buy octane booster all the time......I can't be bothered with with that...too much messin about.

I want to get in the car and drive it!!!!

If I go the route of all these adjustable and tweakable things, how do I set them up without risk to my motor?

Sorry....I'm obviously thick, but last time I twiddled with a manual boost controller (on my 1987 Renault 5GT Turbo) I blew the end off the intercooler!!!!

Cheers

Turbo_Steve

As always good common sense advice from Mr.Banks.

If you intend to run with 95RON, set it up with 95RON. If you want more power, run optimax, set it up with optimax and DO NOT use 95RON. If you absoloutely HAD to run 95, then you could keep an eye on the AFR and knocklink, but you'll probably find you can't put your foot down without red lights.
If you need to run on 95 for any amount of time, you can wind the boost back in a bit on the Dawes.

ECU and exhaust would really be preferable, but as you have noticed, the cost is fairly prohibitive.

Delboy2

It would not be advisable to increase the boost at all using 95RON, this would be a recipe for detonation. Optimax/Super unleaded(97RON) plus octane booster(NF ) should be used if raising the boost along with Water Injection as John Banks has already stated.