MadGrip

Glad i found this thread

I've got a bugeye 2001 WRXand have found a bleed valve,after further looking around i found that my ECU has a little box attatched to it which says "Superchips ECU Remap"

ater speaking to someone else on here they also suggested fitting a boost gauge just to be safe.

the only problem i'm getting at the moment is not very smooth boost and thought that the valve could be the problem. So I'll be taking it easy till i get myself a boost gauge. I was also told the car was standard apart from a forge VTA D/V and magnex back box.I only started wondering when my mate who has the same car couldnt keep up with me when accelerating..


Who knows.. wonder what else I'll find
and "yes" i have tried contacting the previous owner but he's out of the country Hmmm...wonder why ???


oh yeh.. and the other thing that was bothering me is that when i bought the car from a respectable dealer , he told me i still had 1 years subaru warrenty as the car is only 2 years old, am i right in thinking that with the chip,Bleed valve , VTA D/V and magnex it will void any warranty i may have had left

[Edited by MadGrip - 8/1/2003 1:13:28 PM]

doobiedooo

Hi all,

I have had a problem with Over Boost a couple of times on MY99 Uk Turbo.

I have tried cleaning the boost solenoid but this hasn't worked.

Now, from reading threads and stratching about I think I may have a bleed valve. (I have a little gold cone shaped thing with an insulated pipe going off somewhere!!)

When this was fitted (by the previous owner) I assume he would have upped the boost. Could this be the reason for the over boost?? Is it worth cleaning out the pipes to the bleed valve or even removing it completely to stop the over boost?

i assume if I were to remove it I would want to turn the boost back down to a normal level??

Blimey - thats a lot of questions!! Answers greatly appriciated.

nom

Little gold cone suggests SuperChips to me! But it may just be a bleed valve. Well, it []i]is[/i] a bleed valve, whatever, it just may or may not come with 'chips
Hopefully, it's by itself. Removing it would reduce boost back to where it should be

doobiedooo

thanks.

So I can safely remove the bleed valve without changing anything else, even if I do have 'chips???

Can I adjust the bleed valve? It looks as if it has an adjustment screw in the top.

I really just want to drop the boost a tiny bit - enough to stop the occational over boost / fuel cut which I'm getting.

Brun

Get it checked ASAP

Brun

Boost Gauge?

doobiedooo

nope

The problem is I can't afford to chuck the problem at a dealer cos I'm skint. I'm told over boost is a fail safe so won't damage anything but I'd still like to sort it as it irritates!

...am I right in thinking the overboost is a fail safe???

[Edited by doobiedooo - 30/07/2003 13:41:42]

Brun

If boost has been upped without the fuel to match - that is BAD

doobiedooo

excuse my ignorance...

...when you say "fuel to match"???????

I always run Optimax or SUL - is this what you mean (I guess not!!)

ScoobyDuck

iTrader: (1)

ok .. if you raise the boost higher than factory, then the fueling should be adjusted to match too. if not, then there is a risk that the fueling will be lean & you'll start to get problems (knock etc)

the chances are, that if you're on a UK car, then they overfuel so badly that even to 17psi you'll be ok. BUT dont take my word for it! most people fit an AFR meter to measure the fueling & also a knocklink to check that you're not detting.
if you're hitting boost cut, then you must be around 17psi (think 99 fuel cut is about 16.something). I would take the bleed valve out and see if it's ok. then you could put it back in , but close it a bit - but you really need a boost gauge for this - to see what it's doing. (or delta-dash logging software)

cheers
Steve

doobiedooo

thanks steve, so in theory, if I tighten the wee screw on the top of the bleed valve slightly, that should reduce the boost??

Or by removing the "bleeder" altogether, it will return the boost to standard?

Appriciate your help guys

john banks

If you can, take a picture of it and post it and I'll try to help.

Also remove the passenger footwell kickpanel and take a photo of the ECU. Then remove the lid and take a photo.

MY99 boost target 13.7 PSI. Fuel cut 17.6 PSI.

doobiedooo

Thanks John - I'll do that tonight and post on here in the morning

also, I've done some searches on here and come to the conclusion that there is little risk in tighening the screw on the bleed valve cos all I'll be doing is reducing the boost. This shouldn't blow anything - just reduce performance

please tell me if this is way off the mark!

john banks

Sounds OK, use a boost gauge and be ready to back off.

If you have a Superchip installed correctly there should not be an overboost fuel cut at all

doobiedooo

I don't know if I have a superchip - I was told it was standard when I bought it but then it's got a bleed valve I wasn't told about so who knows!!??

...I asume with the picture of the ECU with its top off you'll be able to tell me?? I'll sort the pics tonight.

Thanks John.

john banks

Superchip boards are usually installed outside the ECU.

k9any

Hi have a MY97 UK and yesterday for the first time it hit fuel cut off for sum reason?...i peak boost at 15psi and yeah the UK runs very rich my Lambda link is on the last green light on full boost.

doobiedooo

Didn't manage to get the photos of the ECU - got dragged to the pub instead

I turned the screw in the valve very slightly and then couldn't recreate the problem.......until this morning

It seems that this only happens when the weather is slightly colder - I guess this is because the engine breaths more efficiently with cold air??

I think I'm gonna clean out all the pipes in and around the bleed valve and see what happens.....I'll try to get those photo's tonight.........

Cheers.

Scoobydb

I would consider removing the bleed valve(if that's what it is) and replacing it with a Dawes device. You can get these setup to raise boost to a safe level and hold it there.

Aintbroke dontfix

Just a quick suggestion apart from the bleed valve. I had something similar, took bleed valve off, still a bit bad. Guy at garage next door suggested changing the pipes around & to the actuator. On removal I found the pipe from somwhere to the acuator! had a very small split in it. Guy at garage said that was the problem as the split had perished so had been like that for time. Put the bleed valve back on, set up again and its fine. Check the pipes for small splits.