No Knock Reading
#1
I fitted my Knocklink to a MY99 TypeR a few weeks ago.
I positioned the sensor on the center hole in the block directly under the intercooler. This part of the block was slightly raised. There were 2 holes either side slightly lower that were holding brackets, so I opted to leave these in place.
My problem is, that when set to maximum sensivity on the display I am hardly ever lighting any lights up. If I hot the limiter to 'force' it to light, I can iluminate the bottom 2.
I took this to mean no det as I was running Optimax and 1/3 bottle of NF.
However, this weekend with the weather into the low 30's I was still getting no det, even when running hardly any NF (I refrained from putting any in and filled the tank with optimax only)
Do I have a good engine here giving me no det, or do you suspect something is wrong. If I remove the sensor and tap on it, it lights up no probs.
My only mods are a Fubjiutsu s/s system.
Thanks
I positioned the sensor on the center hole in the block directly under the intercooler. This part of the block was slightly raised. There were 2 holes either side slightly lower that were holding brackets, so I opted to leave these in place.
My problem is, that when set to maximum sensivity on the display I am hardly ever lighting any lights up. If I hot the limiter to 'force' it to light, I can iluminate the bottom 2.
I took this to mean no det as I was running Optimax and 1/3 bottle of NF.
However, this weekend with the weather into the low 30's I was still getting no det, even when running hardly any NF (I refrained from putting any in and filled the tank with optimax only)
Do I have a good engine here giving me no det, or do you suspect something is wrong. If I remove the sensor and tap on it, it lights up no probs.
My only mods are a Fubjiutsu s/s system.
Thanks
#2
sound like everyting probably running sweet, best way to check is to get someone to tap the bolt that hold the sensor onto the block with a screwdriver, tap it hard enough and you will get red
Rich
Rich
#3
Hi there,
what boost are you running?
I run mine with Optimax and 100ml NF per fillup and at 1.6 bar I'm only seeing green lights on max sensitivity, so I wouldn't worry.
Bouncing your car off the revlimiter is not a good idea though mate, even if it IS to test your knocklink
Providing your car has decent fuelling, decent intercooling, plenty of NF, is not running stupid boost and is generally well maintained, you should be ok.
Cheers
Rich
what boost are you running?
I run mine with Optimax and 100ml NF per fillup and at 1.6 bar I'm only seeing green lights on max sensitivity, so I wouldn't worry.
Bouncing your car off the revlimiter is not a good idea though mate, even if it IS to test your knocklink
Providing your car has decent fuelling, decent intercooling, plenty of NF, is not running stupid boost and is generally well maintained, you should be ok.
Cheers
Rich
#4
Boost is at 1.1 bar.
I am now running optimax only and I light up the first light at high revs (7k) which indicates general engine noise to me, not det.
I was expecting it to det like hell on a hot day running no booster, but I got nothing. It just seemed odd after all the stories you read on here.
Hopefully its just running really well and I am one of the lucky few who doesn't need octaine booster on a Jap car. Should save a few pennies.
I am now running optimax only and I light up the first light at high revs (7k) which indicates general engine noise to me, not det.
I was expecting it to det like hell on a hot day running no booster, but I got nothing. It just seemed odd after all the stories you read on here.
Hopefully its just running really well and I am one of the lucky few who doesn't need octaine booster on a Jap car. Should save a few pennies.
#7
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I ran my Type R for a year on Optimax only and car seemed OK (didn't have Knocklink fitted)
Got K'LINK fitted ran with booster and blew engine/Turbo up in a DAY!.
Now heres the rub.
IMHO. What happened was this.
CAR running Japanese fuel....OK.
Over here I started running on SUL + BOOSTER ...ECU can adjust itself to retard and run OK.
Changed Panel filter to K+N Plus Decat exhaust and started running on OPTIMAX....ECU (According to filter manufacturers). Sees more air so more fuel goes in....again OK.
Now unbeknownst to me MAF goes faulty.....ECU starts compensating (Puts more fuel in .).Still appearing to be ok.
This is when I start posting about how I've done 20,000 miles on OPTIMAX and cars sweet.
Alls well ,but people start telling me .Use booster and fit Knocklink,
OK. I say I'll get this done when clutch is being changed.
Battery is disconnected during clutch change. ECU resets itself.(All it has learnt is wiped)It does not see the faulty MAF and it now thinks I'm running Jap' fuel.
No compensation car blew up next day!
BTW I didn't notice Knocklink flashing Red as A)I had it positioned away from line of sight.
B) I was on a BITE.(Race oppartunity)
Moral of story....Yes you can run on OPTIMAX alone.But BIG BUT that margin for error will be closed considerably as far as ECU/sensor issues are concerned.
FYI.Now running STI 6 engine,VF34 Turbo,BLIZ SUS. HKS FMIC,Dawes and Remap. SECS, Boost guage and sighted Knocklink.(All a pretty penny).
It's a case of when you do one thing.How does it effect the rest?
I got it hard .I hope this helps others when it comes to the SHOULD I FIT / WHAT SHOULD I RUN ON .posts
BTW. I'm not bitter LOL!
Got K'LINK fitted ran with booster and blew engine/Turbo up in a DAY!.
Now heres the rub.
IMHO. What happened was this.
CAR running Japanese fuel....OK.
Over here I started running on SUL + BOOSTER ...ECU can adjust itself to retard and run OK.
Changed Panel filter to K+N Plus Decat exhaust and started running on OPTIMAX....ECU (According to filter manufacturers). Sees more air so more fuel goes in....again OK.
Now unbeknownst to me MAF goes faulty.....ECU starts compensating (Puts more fuel in .).Still appearing to be ok.
This is when I start posting about how I've done 20,000 miles on OPTIMAX and cars sweet.
Alls well ,but people start telling me .Use booster and fit Knocklink,
OK. I say I'll get this done when clutch is being changed.
Battery is disconnected during clutch change. ECU resets itself.(All it has learnt is wiped)It does not see the faulty MAF and it now thinks I'm running Jap' fuel.
No compensation car blew up next day!
BTW I didn't notice Knocklink flashing Red as A)I had it positioned away from line of sight.
B) I was on a BITE.(Race oppartunity)
Moral of story....Yes you can run on OPTIMAX alone.But BIG BUT that margin for error will be closed considerably as far as ECU/sensor issues are concerned.
FYI.Now running STI 6 engine,VF34 Turbo,BLIZ SUS. HKS FMIC,Dawes and Remap. SECS, Boost guage and sighted Knocklink.(All a pretty penny).
It's a case of when you do one thing.How does it effect the rest?
I got it hard .I hope this helps others when it comes to the SHOULD I FIT / WHAT SHOULD I RUN ON .posts
BTW. I'm not bitter LOL!
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#8
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Slightly off topic, but how much was the new engine.
I keep papping it thinking if mine blows I'm gonna be in deep sh*t!!!!
I keep papping it thinking if mine blows I'm gonna be in deep sh*t!!!!
#11
Anyone (maybe John B or Bob R) got any more input on this???
Its slightly worrying me. I know this sounds odd, but I would be happier if I saw some kind of knock in this weather. I would hate to think I was getting no knock at all and then one day blowing the engine up as it was not reading correctly.
circumstances again:
- The car is a MY99 STI5 TypeR.
- At the moment I am running optimax with NO octaine booster. (normally runs on NF, I was just testing).
- I only ever light the first light towards top of rev range which I am assuming to be engine noise.
- There does not appear to be anything wrong with the sensor and gauge.
Is this just well set up, i.e. no det, or do you think there may be some other underlying issue?
Thanks
Ged.
Its slightly worrying me. I know this sounds odd, but I would be happier if I saw some kind of knock in this weather. I would hate to think I was getting no knock at all and then one day blowing the engine up as it was not reading correctly.
circumstances again:
- The car is a MY99 STI5 TypeR.
- At the moment I am running optimax with NO octaine booster. (normally runs on NF, I was just testing).
- I only ever light the first light towards top of rev range which I am assuming to be engine noise.
- There does not appear to be anything wrong with the sensor and gauge.
Is this just well set up, i.e. no det, or do you think there may be some other underlying issue?
Thanks
Ged.
#13
Ged,
I have the same car as you, year and model. I have only ever run on Optimax with no booster at all, no probs. When my Knocklink arrives from the groupbuy I will be interested to see what my car shows.
Hopefully, if mine shows the same as yours then we should be okay.
Cheers,
Craig.
I have the same car as you, year and model. I have only ever run on Optimax with no booster at all, no probs. When my Knocklink arrives from the groupbuy I will be interested to see what my car shows.
Hopefully, if mine shows the same as yours then we should be okay.
Cheers,
Craig.
#14
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Ged
It would be interesting to see what sort of Power figures your car is making on just Optimax.
Mines My 99 STI 5 Type R Ltd 291BHP/231ft/lbs.torque
This was with Decat and K+n Panel.Running Optimax alone.
Felt torque figure was rather low.
Could this have been due to ignition retard due to lower octane fuel?
It would be interesting to see what sort of Power figures your car is making on just Optimax.
Mines My 99 STI 5 Type R Ltd 291BHP/231ft/lbs.torque
This was with Decat and K+n Panel.Running Optimax alone.
Felt torque figure was rather low.
Could this have been due to ignition retard due to lower octane fuel?
#15
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Gedi - I think you are in the same boat as me. i feel that any indication you get on the knocklink is just engine/transmission noise at high revs. you can get too paranoid m8. sounds to me like you have a well setup motor. i wouldnt stop using the octane booster though.
cheers
big sinky
cheers
big sinky
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