spider

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate any ideas what caused the following problem with my UK98 saloon last night:

After a 20 mile drive, last bit sitting in traffic for 10 - 15 minutes, parked the car and left it idling whilst unloading. All of a sudden it just cuts out.

Try to restart it twice - no go, just turns over. Leave it for a few minutes, try again, and it runs for 30 seconds & stalls again.

Come back ten minutes later and it starts & runs fine!

Is it some heat-related thing? It's never done it before.

Typical isn't it - warranty on it finished in May!

Only engine-related mods are a K&N 57i induction kit & ScoobySport back box.

Cheers,
Steve

danny-boy

I had the same with my MY98 once, come to the end of a junction, just pulled out, the revs dropped and stalled. Probably flooded the engine trying to restart it.

What fuel do you run?? if you get it again maybe run with the air box for a while

Cheers

Dan

spider

iTrader: (1)

Might give that a go Danny. Thing is that the K&N's been on for over a year so didn't think that was affecting it - wonder if it needs cleaning?

Car runs on Optimax and has a nearly full tank (so it isn't fuel surge!! )

Pete Croney

Steve

It sounds like a crank or cam position sensor is failing.

danny-boy

If you do take it off to clean the filter maybe (very carfully) check the maf, see if its covered in cack.

Good luck

Dan

spider

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the 'heads up' Pete.

Next question is: where are these situated? Anyone got a picture so I know what I'm looking at?

Dan - it's worth a look. Where's that brake cleaner?

Cheers,
Steve

danny-boy

Be careful with the MAF thou, apprantly they are very fragile.

Good Luck

Dan

Broken Con-Rod

I've currently got the same problem on my Sti 1. The select monitor provides the error code for the crank sensor in my case. You'll find it on the front of the engine a little to the right of the power steering resevoir.

If anyone knows how much a replacement sensor costs and where I can get hold of one I'd appreciate it

spider

iTrader: (1)

Hope to get the car into my local dealer's on Saturday for a quick hook up to the select monitor - see what we see.

Are things like the crank or cam sensor's fixable, or are they non--serviceable items?

Andy_Razz

My RB5 (MY99) started doing the stalling thing last month. I asked RC Developments (Northwich) if they had come across this before. As they are heavy tuners. They said it was really common on Evo 5's 6's & 7's that are running higher than normal boost and with the addition of a dump valve it tends to interfer with the ECU and the car under revs for a split second while idle. That split second is all it takes to stall.

They just reset my ECU and it hasnt happened since (i got a PPP pack so thats higher than normal boost)

Are you running higher boost or have a dump valve. Maybe do with having the ECU looked at. Just from recent experiences

Andy_Razz

My RB5 (MY99) started doing the stalling thing last month. I asked RC Developments (Northwich) if they had come across this before. As they are heavy tuners. They said it was really common on Evo 5's 6's & 7's that are running higher than normal boost and with the addition of a dump valve it tends to interfer with the ECU and the car under revs for a split second while idle. That split second is all it takes to stall.

They just reset my ECU and it hasnt happened since (i got a PPP pack so thats higher than normal boost)

Are you running higher boost or have a dump valve. Maybe do with having the ECU looked at. Just from recent experiences

Andy_Razz

My RB5 (MY99) started doing the stalling thing last month. I asked RC Developments (Northwich) if they had come across this before. As they are heavy tuners. They said it was really common on Evo 5's 6's & 7's that are running higher than normal boost and with the addition of a dump valve it tends to interfer with the ECU and the car under revs for a split second while idle. That split second is all it takes to stall.

They just reset my ECU and it hasnt happened since (i got a PPP pack so thats higher than normal boost)

Are you running higher boost or have a dump valve. Maybe do with having the ECU looked at. Just from recent experiences

spider

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info Andy.

The car's running standard boost etc. No Dawes device or anything like that, and the dump valve's the recirc one fitted as standard.

Waiting for dealer to call me back to confirm a time tomorrow when I can grab a quick session on the select monitor.

Cheers,
Steve

P1 Owner

Is it de-catted, Oxgen sensor....maybe.

spider

iTrader: (1)

Nope - still got both cats - for now!

Took it to Lancaster's this a.m. - No fault codes on the select monitor, all things reading as they should!

Car was well warmed up, Conrad reset the ECU, turned the off and then she hesitated on restart - still no fault codes (did this twice)!!

Upshot seems to be it could be:
1) cam sensor - £100 ish
2) crank sensor - £100 ish
3) O2 sensor (lamda) - £100 ish
4) MAF - possibly? - £250 ish

And the only way to tell is wait til the car stops running due to a fault!! Best start saving!

danny-boy

Hi Sypder forgot to look out for this post.

Anyway;

That's the price for an entire MAF including new housing, you can get the actual MAF sensor for about £80 inc VAT from memory. Do a search on here for a part number.


Cheers

Dan

spider

iTrader: (1)

Dan - that's some good news! £170 saved just by doing nothing!

I'll have a shufti in search as you suggest [unless anyone else knows the part number for a UK98?]

Cheers,
Steve