whiteknight

Has anyone ever experienced a bit of a stuter (sorry dont know how better to explain it) when acclerating from low revs? it happend several times to me today on the way back from me holls!

binxta350

Have you a induction kit on it,like a big air filter

whiteknight

the mods are full decat TSL complete, itg panal filter, TSL also just up rated my fuel pump,well about 8 months ago.

by the way the car is a 95 uk turbo

binxta350

Is it a bit sh---- when you first start it,does the rev counter bounce up and down? does it try to stall when you put your foot on the gas.Do you have a different air filter on?

whiteknight

the filter is a itg panel, it starts first time, it did stall when i put my foot on the cluth but i thought it was where it had been parked on a slight hill, but your right it does fell as though it wants to stall when you put your foof on the gas!some times not all the time

binxta350

it sounds like it could be your air-flow meter,when you change the air filter for a high proformance one it burns it out quicker.I'ts the black box with the plug on it witch should be attached to your air filter.don't know how you test them,sorry.Hope this helps

whiteknight

cheers buddy i will look into it

TRIGGER

My Sti Ra (MY97) just broke down yesterday - having had similar problems with it stuttering. It turns out it is the Air flow meter - £240 plus VAT I am told !!
I have an ITG panel filter (have had for 2.5 years) - is this why it burnt out ?

SiPie

Trigger

They are trying to charge you for the whole housing. This is not necessary as you can buy the sensor on it's own for around £70. So you are being robbed mate [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

Know it's not your year of car and you'll need a new part no. but just to prove a point

click here for a the proof

Your MAF on the 97 isn't as sensitive as mine on the MY99 so I would have thought that the ITG would have been ok but it was an ITG that seems to have wrecked my engine when it caused under-fuelling then bang at the beginning of the year

Don't pay the £270 though as they are conning you [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

Good luck

[Edited by SiPie - 5/28/2003 12:34:20 PM]

TRIGGER

Thanks SiPie....but just checked and you can only replace the sensor on version 5 onwards - mine is a version 4 !!!

Barstewards.

whiteknight

does this mean i will have to replace the whole thing?

binxta350

more than likely,i got an air flow meter from a breaker £50 the whole thing and he'll mail it to you,hes in lincoln if its to far no's in ad mag or mail me i think i've got it some where.don't know if i can print no on this site

KEVWRX95

If the MAF sensor was faulty would you not have the check engine light come on???????

Ken E

My sti4 is a bit like this. Revs up and down a few times when started from cold, 800 to 1100rpm, has slightly lumpy tickover after this and misses the odd beat when just starting to accelerate away from the lights. Getting it checked out on Saturday.

I believe it has the standard air filter in it, but haven't checked. Can the MAF just be dirty or do they always go ? I seem to remember something about cleaning them after they are contaminated by the stuff from oiled filters.

Ken

TRIGGER

Ken - this is exactly how my problems started - very rapidly it got worse (over only 24 hours) so dont plan any long trips before getting it checked.

The 'Check Engine' light did finally come on but only after the thing would barely drive.

Ken E

Trigger

Has been like that since I got it a couple of weeks back, if anything it is not as bad as it was, but it is getting checked on Saturday.

I only do 20 miles at a time and have been taking it easy (3000 rpm ish), except for one blast the other day, engine seems OK and is quiet both at cold start and whilst going along. Am getting 25/26mpg though which is more than I expected and better than my previous WRX. Not using enough fuel, must be something wrong was my thinking.

Maybe I should change it anyway, worthwhile for £70 or so, if it can just take a new sensor and not need a whole new setup. It's a June 98 manufactured car, will have to check the part number.

Thanks

Ken

SiPie

Ken

They can be cleaned using Unipart Brake cleaner (available from Halfords for around £5.99)

Open the top of the air filter housing (leaving filter in place), then hold engine at around 3,000 revs whilst giving a quick spray of the brake cleaner up towards the MAF in the housing....do NOT spray too much.... just one quick squirt

However I would prefer to replace the MAF just to be on the safe side

Eprom

White Night
If your model has a MAF sensor like the MY99, these suffer from contamination from some aftermarket air filters. You can try and clean it as stated in previous threads but it won't last long.
I had the same symptoms on MY99 Hunting at idle stalling when engine is cold. I have the OEM filter but the MAF'S seem to die with age on MY99 also. You can get the MAF on its own approximattly £70.00. IMHO i would go down this route, if it reads incorrect you could be leaning out the mixture at wide open throttle. Then £70.00 seems cheap compaired to a replacment engine.
No check engine light showed up on mine and select monitor did not pick this up.

Ken E

SiPie

I am having the car looked at tomorrow morning so should know what it is one way or the other. If there's some doubt then it's getting a new one as it sounds like false economy not to, even if it won't just take the sensor. Thanks for the cleaning instructions, might try this later anyway, if I get some improvement then it's a pointer, sounds like the select monitor won't pick it up anyway even if it is gone. It will probably tell me if it is something else though.

I've been taking it really easy, 3000rpm absolute max, no fun being overtaken on the motorway by ordinary cars but preferable to blowing the engine !

Thanks

Ken

TRIGGER

Ken E - what was the result ?

KenE

Tried cleaning the maf at the weekend, no difference. It is a hot wire one, not film, and looked sparkling clean. Air filter was subaru std one but a bit grubby.

Car was checked yesterday and showed a dead lambda sensor fault code so I had a new one fitted and the ecu reset. New air filter, std one again.

Now it feels worse !! Cold idle is still up and down between 900 and 1200rpm, warm idle 750 to 850rpm. Very lumpy when cold, still a bit lumpy when warm. Not as much power and it feels a bit hesitant, seems to miss the odd time and feels like the revving up and down is also happening as I am going along, which wasn't happening before.

It's going back on Saturday, I might remove one of the plugs in the meantime just for curiosity and to check what they are. Service History says NGK 3500 were fitted but I have no idea what that means.

I'll post another update as soon as I have one.

Oh one other thing, done 284 miles on 44 litres which is 29mpg. Almost all up to 3000rpm but still seems too good to me.

Ken