ECU's on late classics....
#1
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Hi, wonder whether someone could elaborate on the ECU issue with late (X reg) classics????
AE802 I believe..
what Im after is advice on the following:
downsides of above ECU type
how to tell if a car Im looking at has an 802 (owner doesnt know)
reasons to hang on to it (802).
ease of replacing the ECU
possible things that might go wrong upon ECU removal/replacement.
thanks guys
AE802 I believe..
what Im after is advice on the following:
downsides of above ECU type
how to tell if a car Im looking at has an 802 (owner doesnt know)
reasons to hang on to it (802).
ease of replacing the ECU
possible things that might go wrong upon ECU removal/replacement.
thanks guys
#2
Downsides:
It's not set up very well. Takes the worst of all worlds & puts them all into a neat little package.
How to tell:
Not exactly a casual check. You have to undo a couple of those plasticy 'screws' in the passenger well, pull the carpet up, remove a metal cover & look at the 'package' underneath. It's easy to identify, though - a green label.
I'd be very suprised if it's anything other than an 802, unless the owner has had it reprogrammed/replaced, in which case the above check won't work...
Reasons to hang on to it:
Paperweight.
Swap for Tek1 much cheaper than buying a Tek1 outright.
Ease of replacing:
Once 'check' procedure has been done, just unbolt the thing, unplug the 3 big sockety things, replace with new ECU, plug in, bolt back in, etc. etc.
Things that might go wrong...
If you're really unlucky, I suppose there could be some sort of static build-up, but if you're sensible, this shouldn't happen!
Whatever, it's not enough to judge a car on - too easy & cheap to replace!
It's not set up very well. Takes the worst of all worlds & puts them all into a neat little package.
How to tell:
Not exactly a casual check. You have to undo a couple of those plasticy 'screws' in the passenger well, pull the carpet up, remove a metal cover & look at the 'package' underneath. It's easy to identify, though - a green label.
I'd be very suprised if it's anything other than an 802, unless the owner has had it reprogrammed/replaced, in which case the above check won't work...
Reasons to hang on to it:
Paperweight.
Swap for Tek1 much cheaper than buying a Tek1 outright.
Ease of replacing:
Once 'check' procedure has been done, just unbolt the thing, unplug the 3 big sockety things, replace with new ECU, plug in, bolt back in, etc. etc.
Things that might go wrong...
If you're really unlucky, I suppose there could be some sort of static build-up, but if you're sensible, this shouldn't happen!
Whatever, it's not enough to judge a car on - too easy & cheap to replace!
#3
Thought Ecutek process can reprogram it as required without removal?? e.g. Tek 1, 2 or 3 depending upon depth of owners pockets / and or length of arms!
I'm sure an expert will be along in a minute . . .
Suresh
MY99 Tek3
I'm sure an expert will be along in a minute . . .
Suresh
MY99 Tek3
#4
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A lot of it is hocus pocus IMHO about the 802 ecu. There are plenty of MY99 and MY01 owners that suffer similar problems to the MY00 despite there also being some documented examples of swapping my00 ecu to my99 ecu and seeing power/torque gains. These problems tend to be hesitation and dropping away of top end power. There are also some standard my00 cars that go like the clappers. If you are after buing one then test drive it and also test drive an my99 - see if you can feel any different.
The are a number of companies/people that remap the 802 ecu using some clever software invented by Ecutek that just plugs into the diagnostic port under the steering wheel. They can work the 802 ecu to give you power/torque very similar to the Prodrive Performance Pack Ecu for about £600-700. As this upgrade is of benefit to people who may not already have the ecu or may want to buy the upgrade by post so there is a demand for the 802 ecu, and you can sell it to one of the tuners for £75.
It is easy enough to change as above but also controls the immobiliser so your car keys will need reprogramming to the new ecu.
The are a number of companies/people that remap the 802 ecu using some clever software invented by Ecutek that just plugs into the diagnostic port under the steering wheel. They can work the 802 ecu to give you power/torque very similar to the Prodrive Performance Pack Ecu for about £600-700. As this upgrade is of benefit to people who may not already have the ecu or may want to buy the upgrade by post so there is a demand for the 802 ecu, and you can sell it to one of the tuners for £75.
It is easy enough to change as above but also controls the immobiliser so your car keys will need reprogramming to the new ecu.
#5
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You sure about the keys on MY99-00? I'm sure I only took one set when I had the PPP fitted to my car. Isn't the standard Sigma alarm system a completely separate entity that was fitted when the car arrived in the UK?
A.
A.
#7
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Thought it was to do with the factory fit immobiliser (ie not the alarm system) - there is a transponder chip in the key head. I thought if you got PPP fitted you had to remember to take your spare key to Prodrive for this reason May depend on model year??
[Edited by Boost II - 2/21/2003 4:08:54 PM]
[Edited by Boost II - 2/21/2003 4:08:54 PM]
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#9
As mentioned above it will almost certainly be an AE802.
More info can be found here - http://www.ecutek.co.uk - under tuning - original ECU comparison
Cheers,
Ian.
More info can be found here - http://www.ecutek.co.uk - under tuning - original ECU comparison
Cheers,
Ian.
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