HELP - car nearly stalls
13 February 2003, 03:39 PM
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Any suggestions.
Car has had a new clutch. Was fine before.
Now after the car has been running for a while and you come to a stand still the revs hunt down to about 100rpm then back to 900rpm. Does this three times and then is ok ! Will somtimes nearly stall and jerk when you pull off (oeerrr).
SelectMonitor is showing no faults !
Any suggestion of things to check ?
Dave
Car has had a new clutch. Was fine before.
Now after the car has been running for a while and you come to a stand still the revs hunt down to about 100rpm then back to 900rpm. Does this three times and then is ok ! Will somtimes nearly stall and jerk when you pull off (oeerrr).
SelectMonitor is showing no faults !
Any suggestion of things to check ?
Dave
13 February 2003, 10:49 PM
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I'd be interested as to what the fault is as my my99 is doing the same - only when its warm though.
Oxygen sensor or maf?
Looked on select monitor and the maf voltage rises with throttle openings but the o2 sensor doesn't really alter with throttle openings at idle; only flicks between 325 and 330mv - mechanic said its supposed to do that.
Any help appreciated as i don't want to change both!
Oxygen sensor or maf?
Looked on select monitor and the maf voltage rises with throttle openings but the o2 sensor doesn't really alter with throttle openings at idle; only flicks between 325 and 330mv - mechanic said its supposed to do that.
Any help appreciated as i don't want to change both!
13 February 2003, 11:42 PM
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At idle it'll typically be the MAF.
The select monitor basically doesn't tell you anything until the sensor's completely gone (i.e. after your engine has anyway).
If it's an MY99/00, I think it's a pretty good safety precaution - dodgy idle or no dodgy idle - to change the MAF sensor to the new type, which is (allegedly!) a lot more robust. Either that or get LambdaLink, etc. to keep an eye on it.
The MAF sensor is also cheaper than the lambda sensor if you're buying the 'real' thing & the dealers doesn't try to flog you the entire housing rather than just the sensor.
The select monitor basically doesn't tell you anything until the sensor's completely gone (i.e. after your engine has anyway).
If it's an MY99/00, I think it's a pretty good safety precaution - dodgy idle or no dodgy idle - to change the MAF sensor to the new type, which is (allegedly!) a lot more robust. Either that or get LambdaLink, etc. to keep an eye on it.
The MAF sensor is also cheaper than the lambda sensor if you're buying the 'real' thing & the dealers doesn't try to flog you the entire housing rather than just the sensor.
13 February 2003, 11:54 PM
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I have a MY99 and had the same problem. A MAF sensor sorted it out for only £54 Part No. 22794AA010 (it's called a "Meter air Flow").
Your sub dealer should be able to get it for you next day.
Good Luck Pat
Your sub dealer should be able to get it for you next day.
Good Luck Pat
14 February 2003, 08:02 AM
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Dave just before you buy a new one my car is having the link fitted tommorow and im removing the maf so on sunday we can pop it into yours and see whats what.
Cheers
R.B
Cheers
R.B
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14 February 2003, 10:33 AM
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Cheers, all , thanks Rich.
New MAF fitted under warrenty ... all seems to be ok now !
nowt did show up on the selectmonitor
Dave.
New MAF fitted under warrenty ... all seems to be ok now !
nowt did show up on the selectmonitor
Dave.
14 February 2003, 04:31 PM
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Hiya Dave, long time no hear/see.
Mine did that when i was faffing around with ECU's. 100 rpm up to 900 ish etc sorted it's self out after about 100 miles. Had the ECU reset using a select monitor (For something non related) and the symptoms returned, after about 100 miles was and still is ok. Just wondering if it's got summat to do with the ECU being reset if they for some reason disconnected your battery whilst doing the clutch!
Mind you, a change of MAF seems to have cleared it for you though. Just thought i'd post my experience so that people don't suddenly become paranoid about thier MAF sensors. If idleing is iffy, it probably will be the MAF sensor, but consider first if your ECU has been reset either deliberatly or otherwise.
Mikey MY00 Decat ITG Dawes VTA
Mine did that when i was faffing around with ECU's. 100 rpm up to 900 ish etc sorted it's self out after about 100 miles. Had the ECU reset using a select monitor (For something non related) and the symptoms returned, after about 100 miles was and still is ok. Just wondering if it's got summat to do with the ECU being reset if they for some reason disconnected your battery whilst doing the clutch!
Mind you, a change of MAF seems to have cleared it for you though. Just thought i'd post my experience so that people don't suddenly become paranoid about thier MAF sensors. If idleing is iffy, it probably will be the MAF sensor, but consider first if your ECU has been reset either deliberatly or otherwise.
Mikey
MY00 Decat ITG Dawes VTA
18 February 2003, 08:18 AM
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cALL ME MAD IF YOU LIKE, BUT MY REASONING IS THAT (Doh cap lock on, sorry 
) if any work of significance is carried out on the cars, then the battery tends to get disconnected. This effectivly resets the ecu. Upon restarting, the ecu has to "learn" the engine again and if everything is not how it was when it left the factory i.e decatted, different induction kit etc, then it takes a few miles to find a whole host of parameters. Much like the lambda sensor will monitor across a range of signals, the ecu would need time to settle.
That's my take, i ain't no ecu expert (I'll leave that to far more complex people
) but sometimes, these sorts of explinations might actually be right.
Mikey
) if any work of significance is carried out on the cars, then the battery tends to get disconnected. This effectivly resets the ecu. Upon restarting, the ecu has to "learn" the engine again and if everything is not how it was when it left the factory i.e decatted, different induction kit etc, then it takes a few miles to find a whole host of parameters. Much like the lambda sensor will monitor across a range of signals, the ecu would need time to settle.That's my take, i ain't no ecu expert (I'll leave that to far more complex people
) but sometimes, these sorts of explinations might actually be right.Mikey
18 February 2003, 08:51 AM
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Yep me also ,MY99 battery disconected, now it ticks over lumpy /stalls, I'll give it a few weeks to see if it 'sorts itself
out '
out '
18 February 2003, 09:55 AM
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Jon sounds like your lambda sensor is knackered. Steady 330 mV is classic failure. You expect at warm idle a voltage that flicks from 0 to over 800 mV and back.
18 February 2003, 09:58 AM
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Jon sounds like your lambda sensor is knackered. Steady 330 mV is classic failure. You expect at warm idle a voltage that flicks from 0 to over 800 mV and back.
18 February 2003, 05:16 PM
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John,
Thanks for the feedback.
The ECU threw up an error code 32 months ago which the mechanic saw but still thinks its the MAF as i have a K&N fitted. Shall i tell him he's wrong?!? :-)
Do you have any idea of cost for a lambda sensor?
Cheers
Jon
Thanks for the feedback.
The ECU threw up an error code 32 months ago which the mechanic saw but still thinks its the MAF as i have a K&N fitted. Shall i tell him he's wrong?!? :-)
Do you have any idea of cost for a lambda sensor?
Cheers
Jon
18 February 2003, 07:04 PM
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Bingo,
Same problem as my MY99, been scratching my head wondering what the problem was......so now looks like its either the MAF sensor or the Lambda sensor......did you also notice if the car surged on acceleration in 5th....I noticed that the other day.
Will take her in and get my local scoob dealer to look at her.
tks for the confirmation though
JimmyR
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