Quick Poll.... Lambdalink/knocklink wiring locations?
#1
OK,
I've search Scoobynet and 22B for wiring locations and got varing results. I've wired in my units as follows:
Lambdalink: Display unit.. 12V at *** lighter, earth to a bolt near gear stick. White senor wire to the ECU and green ground to an ECU bolt.
Knocklink: Display unit same as Lambda... brown senor wire to ECU (black not used). I do want to get a seperate senor at a later date (i was told i would get one with the display but later found out that the supplier shouldn't have said they came with one )
This gives a result of the lambda display hunts at idle (which it should?), but if i turn on the headlights, rear dimister, engine fan etc... the display drops off the scale (no lights) and doesn't come back on even at full throttle, cruise etc... The knocklink bottom green lights up faintly but nothing else. Tried turning the sensitivity both directions too.
From an old post on 22B Bob Rawle says you must connect the lambda sensor ground and the display unit ground in the same place but the instructions that came with it say do NOT do this . Grounding points seem to vary too... at the battery, ECU bolt and engine block have all been used so which is best?
Also should i be getting a bit more activity on the knocklink? Answers from those wired into the OEM sensor please.
So who has wired what where then????
Any help most appreciated.... Bob, Mark etc.
Tony.
P.S the check engine light is now flicking on and off .
[Edited by Tone Loc - 10/4/2002 7:27:51 AM]
I've search Scoobynet and 22B for wiring locations and got varing results. I've wired in my units as follows:
Lambdalink: Display unit.. 12V at *** lighter, earth to a bolt near gear stick. White senor wire to the ECU and green ground to an ECU bolt.
Knocklink: Display unit same as Lambda... brown senor wire to ECU (black not used). I do want to get a seperate senor at a later date (i was told i would get one with the display but later found out that the supplier shouldn't have said they came with one )
This gives a result of the lambda display hunts at idle (which it should?), but if i turn on the headlights, rear dimister, engine fan etc... the display drops off the scale (no lights) and doesn't come back on even at full throttle, cruise etc... The knocklink bottom green lights up faintly but nothing else. Tried turning the sensitivity both directions too.
From an old post on 22B Bob Rawle says you must connect the lambda sensor ground and the display unit ground in the same place but the instructions that came with it say do NOT do this . Grounding points seem to vary too... at the battery, ECU bolt and engine block have all been used so which is best?
Also should i be getting a bit more activity on the knocklink? Answers from those wired into the OEM sensor please.
So who has wired what where then????
Any help most appreciated.... Bob, Mark etc.
Tony.
P.S the check engine light is now flicking on and off .
[Edited by Tone Loc - 10/4/2002 7:27:51 AM]
#2
Scooby Regular
I'd be interested too!!
I've just fitted knock and Lambda lins to my MY97 UK
Lamba link.
For MY97, ECU 8S(3 yellow plugs).
I used pin 5 (bottom plug, thick white wire) for the signal(white) and routed the earth(green) to the engine block.
Knock link.
I used the sensor that came with the display.
Black and brown go to the sensor.
The Lambda pulses from below scale to about 3%CO at idle and cruise. I only ever get green lights on boost.
The Knock link shows a dim green all the time (on light) and only when really pushing it do I get maybe 2 greens. It's set fully clockwise for full sensitivity!! I've tried tapping the block and haven't managed to get a red at all
Does this sound about right???
I've got it on the rollers tommorow so I'll know if it set up right then (I hope!)
Iain.
I've just fitted knock and Lambda lins to my MY97 UK
Lamba link.
For MY97, ECU 8S(3 yellow plugs).
I used pin 5 (bottom plug, thick white wire) for the signal(white) and routed the earth(green) to the engine block.
Knock link.
I used the sensor that came with the display.
Black and brown go to the sensor.
The Lambda pulses from below scale to about 3%CO at idle and cruise. I only ever get green lights on boost.
The Knock link shows a dim green all the time (on light) and only when really pushing it do I get maybe 2 greens. It's set fully clockwise for full sensitivity!! I've tried tapping the block and haven't managed to get a red at all
Does this sound about right???
I've got it on the rollers tommorow so I'll know if it set up right then (I hope!)
Iain.
#4
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TL i have been advised by a number of people that you shouldnt tap into the existing Knock sensor.. and that you should only use an independant sensor for the knocklink..
My understanding of this is that if you take some of the signal away from the existing sensor, you will not get correct knock correction..
Just another thing for you to think about.. the standard/existing sensor on my car only displayed 1 green on the KL although the select monitor was showing knock correction... after fitting the new stand alone sensor (pre ecu change) i got all green and orange ....
Its all sorted now!!!
On the plus side i use the same wiring as above for my lambdalink and it works correctly...
Rob.
p.s. i can get the sensors for half retail price..
My understanding of this is that if you take some of the signal away from the existing sensor, you will not get correct knock correction..
Just another thing for you to think about.. the standard/existing sensor on my car only displayed 1 green on the KL although the select monitor was showing knock correction... after fitting the new stand alone sensor (pre ecu change) i got all green and orange ....
Its all sorted now!!!
On the plus side i use the same wiring as above for my lambdalink and it works correctly...
Rob.
p.s. i can get the sensors for half retail price..
#5
For Lambda, I definitely had the best results taking the lambda signal and earth from the ECU. Many have said to earth at the car battery too, I didn't want to go running a long wire all the way to the battery and as far as I am concerned, taking the reading from the point the ECU takes the reading from is really the best.
When I earthed at the top clock (MY01) with the initial install, I was getting the same probs as Tone Loc was getting, i.e. put headlights or any accessories on, and the extra current drawn by the accessories was enough to have a voltage drop on the earth, thus dropping the LEDs down due to the sensitive nature of the lambda measurement.
The ECU earth is called "sensor earth" in the wiring diagrams I have seen around. I tried the ECU power earth, and the ECU firing solenoids and coils put too much noise on this line, so I finally settled with the ECU sensor earth, it is perfect here.
R's
Tony
When I earthed at the top clock (MY01) with the initial install, I was getting the same probs as Tone Loc was getting, i.e. put headlights or any accessories on, and the extra current drawn by the accessories was enough to have a voltage drop on the earth, thus dropping the LEDs down due to the sensitive nature of the lambda measurement.
The ECU earth is called "sensor earth" in the wiring diagrams I have seen around. I tried the ECU power earth, and the ECU firing solenoids and coils put too much noise on this line, so I finally settled with the ECU sensor earth, it is perfect here.
R's
Tony
#6
Cheers,
Yep, i've now got the lambdalink tapped into the ECU at sensor earth (after looking at the wiring diagram etc after some people said connect it to the shield ). It seems to work fine.
I've got a knocklink sensor arriving soon too so that should be fine.
Only one problem tho..... see my ecu error code post .
Tony.
Yep, i've now got the lambdalink tapped into the ECU at sensor earth (after looking at the wiring diagram etc after some people said connect it to the shield ). It seems to work fine.
I've got a knocklink sensor arriving soon too so that should be fine.
Only one problem tho..... see my ecu error code post .
Tony.
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