Some of you may have read this before but i have still got the problem.

I have a legacy Turbo with a boost problem, the boost keep going all together?

It could be working perfectly but all of a sudden it just goes all together and then it will come back as normal some time later but there is no pattern.

Someone told me to replace the Boost Solenoid, which i have now done, however it has made no difference what so ever.

Could it be the knock Sensor playing up?????? or does anyone else have anymore suggestions??? (but before you mention it, i have checked all of the hoses)

ANY HELP PLEASE?!?!?!?!

 

Have you been playing around with the air flow box as i lost my boost when my maf sensor broke.
Worth checking it might be on its way out??

 

is there another link then with more details?

What do you mean lose boost? Whats the maximum boost achievable when you lose it?


[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 7/23/2002 10:13:26 PM]

 

Check the circlip from the actuator arm is in place and securely holding in the wastegate linkage (under the turbo heatsheild).

Mine popped off before and the actuator arm was sometimes disconnecting from wastegate giving no boost.

Rich

 

wouldnt you at least get 7-8psi from when the waste gate crack pressure is reached even if that was at fault? Thats why i wondered what boost you were getting when it fails as that usually helps narow things down a bit.

[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 7/24/2002 12:13:41 AM]

 

When the linkage disconnected on mine I could not above atmospheric.

Without the arm attached the lever on the wastegate naturally falls in the open position (when the linkage is disconnected the lever is quite loose, it can easily be moved to the closed position by hand but returns to the open position), bypassing all the exhuast gasses from the turbo

- its the actuator that provides the force to hold it shut to generates boost (with the linkage correctly attached the lever is solidly held closed by the arm).

When the arm was moving back and forth when driving under load it was occassionally catching on the lever giving intermittent no boost / normal boost.

I thought I was unique with this failure but another legacy owner on scoobynet had exactly the same problem with the circlip a few months ago.

A long shot but you never know

 

Had a similar prob with the Scoob a whilst back and it was a weak actuator spring. Removed the actuator, replaced it with an adjustable 1, set it up and bingo

pete

 

Thanks for the help chaps!

My problem is that i do not have a boost gauge on the car

This is so hard to explain what it is like but, i could have my foot hard down and it is just starting to pick up a little boost when all of a sudden the boost disapears, it's as if it goes in to safe mode.

I shall try and have a look at the circlip problem today if i get chance.

[Edited by DGRALLYING - 7/24/2002 12:31:35 PM]

 

Don't suppose you have noticed anything wrong with your speedo. When my speedo cable gave up on my RA I encountered 'safe' mode.

 

I've had a look at the circlip and still no joy as that is okay .....

Any other suggestions????

There must be someone whose had a same problem before??

 

I had this problem again for the fisr time in a while.

First thing is to check ecu error codes.

Turn ignition off.

Get under the dash, on the left hand side you should find a pair of black shrouded connectors, just a single spade type contact with a latch.

Turn ignition on.

Look for the "Check Engine" light on the dash.

If it's just flashing on and off regularly then there is no problems as far as the ecu is concerned.

If it flashes in an odd sequence, it's trying to tell you something.

Long flash = 10, short flash = 1.

2 long flashes, followed by 4 short flashes = 24, which is the error code for the Idle control valve btw.

Go here for an explaination of the numbers/codes and diagrams showing the connectors.

The last 2 times this has happened to me:
First was boost solenoid error, so cleaned solenoid, reset ecu and all was well.
Second time, I think I made the engine run to slow without throttle crawling in traffic and the ecu reported an idle control valve error. This time I just reset ecu and all was well.

To reset ECU:
Turn ignition off
Connect the green and black pairs of diagnostic connectors.
Push throttle to floor.
Leave connectors connected
Drive car (I don't know if it's for a certain time, or over a certain speed, but I go down the road and back)
Engine check light will start flashing once reset.
Stop car, turn off ignition, disconnect connectors
You're done.

Or disconnect battery for half an hour or so, but the above method is quicker, obviously.

Paul




Connect them

 

You only need to disc for about 5-10 mins to reset.
You do reall need to put a boost guage in, even if only for diagnosis purposes. It doesnt have to be neatly mounted somewhere, just throw a long bit of pipe in through the window or something.

 

My mum had a simular problem with her Celica. My dad found a hair line split in one of the boost pipes. Might be worth checking..

Hope you get it sorted.

Gareth

[Edited by gareth60 - 7/24/2002 11:33:58 PM]

 

run a pipe from the manifold to your eardrum, you will know when you have boost.

I agree a boost gauge is a must, I have mine wedged in the small hole behind the blank on the left of the steering column, I keep meaning to get a guage pod, but hey, it works.

Paul

 

Pavlo

I have checked the ECU and still no joy.

I think it may have to be a boost gauge then

 

I thiink i may have fixed it???

On the factory fit original hose coming out of the bottom of the boost solenoid there is a restrictor, however i changed this hose to fit a MRT Induction kit.





I found out that this small restrictor causes the boost to play about if not fitted in the bottom hose coming from the Boost Solenoid. I cut it out of the old factory hose to push in to the hoase that i have fitted, I have now tried it, and problem is solved at the moment (well on the run down to Combe and back again today