Can someone please help me on this issue
the other day was driving my Subaru and it just cut out on me no crank no fuel pump it does not let me access obd and the fuel temp pegs straight to hot.when you try crank engine it’s as if it’s immobilized.I’ve checked all fuses and earth straps all seem fine I’ve owned the car for 3 years and this has never happened before if anyone could point me in a direct to help I’d be forever grateful
only work it’s had don’t
Mot’s a 2008 sti hatchback uk model

 

Can anyone please help me im up north near Newcastle

 

does it still have the std subaru alarm/immobiliser or has it an aftermarket unit fitted?

 

Hi thanks for reply it has all standard A&i

 

Have you been thru the fuse box with a volt meter to check there is a feed to all fuses?

 

Thanks I haven’t I’m not that good with electrics but that’s a good idea I’ve checked fuses all where good under foot week drivers and under bonnet.I did find a blown fuse under passenger side il add pictures.do I just pull fuse out probes on the parts fuse attach ? Also what am I looking for resistance or 12 v

the blue fuse on left was blown

Was the blue fuse on the left this is under footwell back of glove box

 

Still didn’t fix anything though

 

Assuming its key ignition....

LH 15A blue fuse is the supply feed to the A/F & Oxygen sensors Relay
RH 15A blue fuse is the Main Relay supply feed and coil supply plus others



How are the slow blow fuses (SBF)?

 

Hi, also, RECHECK the fuse you've just replaced just in case it's blown again!

 

Hi an thanks to all members for advice do you think I should replace the temperature sensor or thermostat as the temperature gauge on dash is pegging straight up

 

CTS for that.

 

I’ve ordered parts pick up 11 today fingers crossed il update the page with results

 

I rechecked the fuse that blew out and it has blown again.it’s the fuse and relays under passenger side it’s the fuse I’ve removed on pics

 

 

Can you pull the relay thats mentioned above and replace the fuse see if it blows straight away or if it blows when you put the relay back, if it still doesnt blow then turn ignition on and see if it blows then.

 

Just fitted the temperature sensor and nothing still pegs straight to max hot no crank

 

You originally said the left fuse (post #6) had blown, now it's the right.(posts 13 & 14)

The RH fuse as show in post #8 (terminals 3&4 on B220) is supplied from SBF-7 and supplies the A/F, O2 sensors relay and the Main relay which supplies a whole lot of things ECU related........

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2825330

 

If it's SBF-7 as Don says, that's via the main relay, so without that a lot of engine related stuff is not going work.

I'd be checking engine bay loom for any badly secured (or over-secured if cable tied) rubbing or pinching against engine/brackets/body causing a short. Has the engine been out in its life, if so was the wiring properly re-secured?....something done five or more years ago can manifest as a short circuit years later due to engine vibrations rubbing through unsecured wiring.

 

And this...jump lead from battery negative to engine will quickly rule this out (replace blown fuse after fitting jump lead not before or it'll likely blow again ).

 

Thanks for your info Lads I really appreciate every bit of help yous are providing I’m sure il get there is there no one local that could give me a hand il pay I’m really struggling with this I’m ok with the nuts n bolts but electrics are not my strongest point it’s doing my head in to be honest 😩🙏

 

Engine was forged was out around 5 year ago but I’ve had no issues like this ever I’ve owned the car 3 years I no what your saying could be a slow fault rubbing and then pop..seems odd but reading them posts it can happen by looks things.

 

First of I’d like to thanks all the all forum members for advice and taking the time to give me advice
my Subaru is back on the road it was a chafed wire in the boost solenoid
see pics cars running perfect again

 

Hope this help anyone else I’m my position






The wire shorted on the boost solenoid metal cover was a tiny nick in cable just after the blue connector

 

The front 02 sensor wiring passes that way, so it does make sense,
glad its sorted.