TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

What's the best tool for removing the inner track rod?

I believe that the OEM track rods are 21mm but that replacements can vary in size. There also seem to be a variety of tools to use; crows foot, axial tools, universal wrenches etc.

I'm favouring the axial tool as it looks like they allow more room to turn and you can get an impact wrench on them. But the out tie rod needs to be removed (or cut) first. Don't want to spend a fortune on a tool I'm unlikely to use very often.

What have people found to be the most effective?

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Track rod end removal tool? Don't remember using one of those when did mine.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Not track rod end with the ball joint that connects to the hub - inner track rod, the other half where it connects to the steering rack..

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

4pc Inner Track Rod Tool Steering Rack Knuckle Tie Rod End Axial Joint Remover | eBay

Or similar.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Yes sorry, just remembered it wasn't on a Subaru it was a Vauxhall. It has flat edges on the joint, so used a spanner to remove from what I remember.

Russell38

I used a chain wrench when i done my brother in laws Mercedes

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I can't find one the right size if Subaru is indeed 21mm. They all seem to be 28-30mm+

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

The spanner size MIGHT be 21mm but it works on the round part like a pair of stilsons have a set here never been beat yet. Don't take that as gospel

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Do they not fit via the 2 flat cut outs? I'll measure the new track rods once I receive them.

RockyRoad

I'm 90% sure (going off memory) the flats are 32mm across, not 21mm. I used a headset spanner for a push bike to loosen the last tie rod I did as it's super thin. I've now bought a "proper" spanner that I'll be sacrificing to the grinder gods when I need to do another. Once it's been knocked loose you should have no bother spinning it off by hand unless the threads have been mangled.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure how much room for there is for a conventional spanner and I expect I may have to cut the track rod to use an axial tool. So want to make sure I gave the tools to complete the job once I start.

RockyRoad

There's a surprising amount of room when you consider you can also flip the spanner around. In the unlikely event you can't get the spanner on there just use a set of mole grips. There's absolutely no need for expensive specialist tools for this job IMO.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

No they grip on the round. If you have numerous spanners with different offsets you might get it off but they can be troublesome

Don Clark

Don Clark

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Don that appears to be with the rack out of the car but helpful for sizes all the same.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

32mm that's great. I watched a US YouTube video and I'm sure that the guy said that it was 21mm.

That means I can get a 30-35mm axial tool, cut the rod if need be and use a torque wrench also.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

You'll not need to cut anything the extension is plenty long enough after all it was made for tightening as well

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

I need to remove the track rod end though. It may well be easier simply to cut it, given how rusty they are. I will be fitting new ones also.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Right thought you meant the tie rods

RetroPug

Steer the wheels somewhere you have access, and if the access for a spanner is poor then a good set of mole grips as stated. Clamp them on tight, and use a hammer to hit the end of them to crack them off.
There's a washer with the ends folded over that retains them (at least there was on my newage!), these need folding out the way with a drift/chisel/etc.

I replaced mine recently, and I mess around with steering arms quite a lot for work.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Managed to find an axial tool 28-35mm for £26.

If I had a bit more time I probably wouldn't have bothered but I only have Friday available so want to be sure I can complete the job in one go, especially if I have to cut the end rods. I guess I can just sell it again once I've used it.

welder029

This is the cheap tool I use, both on the Subaru and Audi ,like Joe said clamps onto the round part of the inner track rod , tho the outer track rod has to be removed first to allow the tool to go on https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193867051238

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Bought this one for a tenner more:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Steer....m46890.l49286

welder029

On a side note make sure the steering rack boots are in good condition and you have new clips or else you will find the rack leaking in the near future when all the crap of the day has worked it's way into the ends seals

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

ICP kit comes with new boots. Not sure about clips though. Will take care removing the old ones if not.

​​​​​​ I'm changing them because I'm still getting a clunk on right turns even after replacing the shot top mounts. Everything else is new, so hoping it's the track rods. Especially as the front left wheel took the full impact of a recent crash.

RockyRoad

Have you done the ball joint too? Perfect time to replace if you haven’t. I’d stick with OE for them. I got some aftermarket ones from ICP (Japanparts if memory serves right) and I recently had to replace one which was completely shot after a year and a half. At least it meant nothing was seized in having been replaced so recently.

welder029

Should be able to diagnose a bad inner tie rod from jacking the car up and grabbing the alloy see if there is in and out play , what about drop links ? Clunk when turning can also be the driveshaft but it's usually more severe than a clunk and hear it a mile away on full lock , had to edit there when a say in and out I mean hand at 3 and 9 and rock the tyre feel for it again there will be movement but no more than normal can compare it to the good side

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Both wishbones replaced with OEM units from Subaru including ball joints and bushes. New ARB bushes. New top mounts. No play in drop links. Steers fine. Brakes in a straight line. No vibrations, knocks or anything else untoward whilst driving. Both top mount bearings were shot - you could hear them pinging on lock.

Replaced both top mounts and Mot'd with no advisories. Still getting a clonk from front left when turning right at a roundabout or junction. Could also be driveshaft but figure track rods are cheaper and easier to do first.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Whip wheel of drop the track rod end out of the hub push and pull tie rod see is there any play. 10 mins will do it also check your steering rack bushings.