masterpimpofdoom

Hi all, when i purchased my car it came with a box of various stuff and inside was what looked to be a brand new maf sensor. Fast forward to last weekend when i was replacing a rocker cover gasket. I thought id put the new maf on. Car started fine but as soon as i went to pull off the revs were dropping and engine was nearly cutting out. Put the old maf back on and all was fine. I had no problems before but thought as i had a brand new one and had the airbox off then why not!? Doea it need coding to the car or something similar? Many thanks,
Craig

Tidgy

was it in a sealed plastic bag? may well have been a duff one that was replced.

Paulgeorge01

Craig have you ever heard the saying "if it aint broke don't fix it" ????

Especially when it comes to maf. They are pretty sensitive so better to leave well alone until required

Paul.

masterpimpofdoom

Yeah ive learned my lesaon! Just seemed like a good idea at the time! It wasnt sealed or boxed but i would say 99% sure its new.

albob

Craig - how did you get on with the Rocker gasket change?? -- I think mine may need doing....

Alan

kevo10

Preventative maintenance?

johned

Was the MAF label purple coloured.

masterpimpofdoom

The maf was exactly the same as the one on the car same part no and label. Rocker cover went fine wasnt difficult just fiddly as not a lot of room down there for someone with big hands!

Paulgeorge01

Craig here is some information on maf that could be helpful to you in the future especially if you feel the urge to play with it again

Joke aside see below, the v3 is the one to change to on your classic turbo. Also to answer your previous question maf installation is basically plug & play without any additional work required.


Version 1 - The original one that was fitted to the cars in the factory doesn't have any notable distinguishing marks.

Version 2 was distributed through the parts system, presumably in an attempt to improve the reliability, and has a dab of bright green paint on the underside of the sensor head.

The version 3 sensor was introduced in late 2004. The IAT thermistor metal prongs are deleted - and so the connector now has four pins instead of five. The dab of green paint on the top corner of the mounting flange. It also has the manufacturer part number C36-700 R92 printed in white ink down one face of the flange, and a date code on one of the other faces. The first number of this code is the year of manufacture

The version 1 and version 2 sensors have a reputation for being unreliable, and the best place for one is the bin. So check you have the later version of the MAF, as they are weak on this version of car

Paulgeorge01

Hi Alan: A couple of things when doing the rocker cover gaskets. Buy the OEM complete kit (not cheap copies) which will also provide the gaskets for the pcv's & around your spark plugs (ignition coil gasket) too. Depending on the type you may want to change the half moons at the back of both the intake & exhaust camshafts.


I believe some models have a tough rubber half moon make up (just what I've heard), I know my classic turbo MY 99 has the harder polyurethane half moons which you don't need to replace, I just removed them & applied new fluid packing around them (three bond 1215 or equivalent) & refitted them, after refitting apply a very thin line of sealer across the front face of the half moon too.


The reason for this is to account for thermal expansion. When the engines heats up & cools down the aluminium rocker face & the half moon expand & contract at different rates so potentially this is a leak point.

Very important prior to fitting rocker cover put a pea size amount of three bond to the four front open edges of the rocker face (start & finish of the semi-circle) prior to fitting the rocker cover & gasket.


Follow that process & you will be ok for about another 100k then you can do it again if it's still living. Hope that helps

Paulgeorge01

Preventative maintenance? Kevo now that is funny!!!!

albob

PaulG - thanks for the info..

Paulgeorge01

No probs Albob.


Don't know if you have done the job yet but maybe worth mentioning that the torque value for the rocker bolts is only 5 NM or 3.6 lb-ft (that's for the EJ205 engine).


it is quite easy to over torque with this minimal torque value. With the bolts being mild steel & the aluminium rocker thread housing being softer you then have a possibility of stripping the threads.


If this happens you are then going down the road of having to install helicoils so better to borrow or purchase a small 1/4 inch drive torque wrench to torque the bolts. I have a handy little Facom torque screwdriver the does 1 to 10 NM which is very handy for this type of job.


Better being safe than sorry it also provides you with a proper torque distribution obviously making for a better seal.