MightyArsenal

hey,
just after any info or ideas as what might be wrong, cars going into have a diagnostics in a couple of days time but thought id see if anyone on here had any ideas as to problems, thanks

Current set up - 2007 WRX STI Hawkeye 39,000miles - uprated clutch, lightened flywheel, front and rear struts, running 310/320bhp, panel filter etc, all basic mods. (all fluids full etc)

did roughly a 40 mile run in it last night, nothing over the top and thrashing it, but after about 25 minutes in noticed a lack of power in second gear, seemed like it had a ridiculous amount of turbo lag and then as soon as it hit 3000rpm the revs would bounce and the car would fly like usual, didnt think much of it until it kept repeating itself. parked up thinking 'im sure it will be fine' come back later on and started it up, noticed the exhaust note was really raw, not how it normally or should sound, much louder under acceleration and boost, especially in 5th and 6th gear, will be going along like normal around 65/70mph and all of a sudden the noise would go through the roof, exactly when boost hits. obviously knew there was a problem, limped home and went to take it to my garage this morning. half way there at about just over half throttle as soon as it hit 4500rpm the engine cut out like it was hitting the rev limiter and the engine management light come up on the dash, again limped it home after booking it in. any ideas would greatly be appreciated and i know it could be countless number of things but any idea is better than none i suppose,
Cheers

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

read the CEL and report back, less guess work involved . .

MightyArsenal

yeah i know if i just wait for the diagnostics all my questions will be answered but just thought id see if anyone had anything similar or recognised any of the faults. thought it would be worth a punt posting it up, nothing to lose haha

kevo10

Loose intake pipes, split pipe,

Milneragain

Sounds a bit similar to a problem I had with my 2007 Hawk recently.

Turned out to be a stuck tumble generator valve position sensor.

Easy enough fix.

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

did you read the code or has the car gone bang ?

MightyArsenal

Sorry fellas. Didn't get a chance to reply back. Fault code was for oil in the intake pipe/boost solenoid. Got a lot of blow by and think it could either be ringland failure or piston ring . Been speaking to API engines about going down the route of forging the internals and they said it's pretty common for ringland failure etc on a standard engine running higher boost.Just one of those things I think, so may aswel make the most of the engine being open and start upgrading for more power later on down the line. Any input welcome. Cheers

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

bloody hell I was joking about it going pop,
these 2.5 that Subaru says has no issues have really ruined peoples faith in the brand.

MightyArsenal

Haha Subaru done a real good job. Only done 39,000 miles. But to be fair I can't tell how it was driven by the bloke before me, could of had a hard life up until now. But what can you do, throw money at it and make more power !! I suppose you always run the risk of these kinds of things running these cars modified, just all part of it.

mickeymouse

Men went at the same mileage although was 18 months ago now.. Think carefully about what upgrades and how far you want/need to go with it.. It will turn into a bottomless pit regardless... Just make sure that when its fitted back into the car that you have NO regrets on what components or level or engineering you have done to the block etc.. I bitterly regret not having my block closed and machined for 14mm studs...

MightyArsenal

Yeah iv been going through all of it recently and what would be needed if I was to go for bigger power. Like I said earlier I have been speaking to API Engines, spent about 35/40minutes on the phone to them, couldn't rate them highly enough. Helpfully, knowledgeable, knew exactly what had happened and took the time to talk me through everything. No trying to sell me stuff as quickly as possible. They recommended pinning the block (I presume this I was you mean by having the block closed and 14mm studs) putting some forged pistons and rods in. The way I'm looking at it is if I put the parts in now to handle higher power they are there and ready and I won't have to come back and re open the engine and swap more stuff out later on down the line. That way i have got a car I can still drive and can add to make more power as time goes by but knowing that the engine is there and able to handle the extra power but at same time in no hurry to throw large sums of money at it in one go doing it little by little (fuel pump, injectors, bigger turbo, front mount, suspension etc) anyway Simon from API seemed a top bloke and invited me down to the shop to show me round and through the process and I thought this way I can sit down with them and see what they think of the ideas ideas I had and the way I plan on doing it, any reviews of API appreciated as well.

mickeymouse

That's some excellent advice you got..!

I don't think pinning the block is the same as having it fully closed although don't quote me on that I'm sure someone will let you know either way.. If it's not the same then I would get it closed..

You are right in getting all the internal stuff done first to the max.. Things like turbo and injectors etc can wait and be fitted later without the extra cost of pulling the engine out again or splitting it open.

Wouldn't mind an invite meself

Anyway good luck and keep us posted