FPR - static or rising rate, which is better?
#3
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Hi mate,
Thanks for your reply. The car I am currently building is a track day toy and so I am adding all my mods before taking it to be mapped to suit everything, as such, I don't currently have a mapper.
I was wondering more if a static or rising rate fpr is better as I've spotted a competitively priced rising rate one from a well known manufacturer but before I buy it I wanted to see what the general thinking was in terms of if a rising rate is preferred or not.
Can anyone suggest a respected mapper in the greater Manchester area with me not currently having one?
Thanks,
Andy.
Thanks for your reply. The car I am currently building is a track day toy and so I am adding all my mods before taking it to be mapped to suit everything, as such, I don't currently have a mapper.
I was wondering more if a static or rising rate fpr is better as I've spotted a competitively priced rising rate one from a well known manufacturer but before I buy it I wanted to see what the general thinking was in terms of if a rising rate is preferred or not.
Can anyone suggest a respected mapper in the greater Manchester area with me not currently having one?
Thanks,
Andy.
#4
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1:1 rising rate is what you're looking for then :
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1854
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Aero...sure-Regulator
or
http://www.advancedautomotives.com/f...uge-2004-p.asp
Try and get one with a gauge so you can set it up and adjust it properly - to little and the car will buck and shudder like driving on an empty tank, far too much and you'll be out of fuel by the time you get to the dyno
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1854
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Aero...sure-Regulator
or
http://www.advancedautomotives.com/f...uge-2004-p.asp
Try and get one with a gauge so you can set it up and adjust it properly - to little and the car will buck and shudder like driving on an empty tank, far too much and you'll be out of fuel by the time you get to the dyno
#6
Static.
To understand this you must first understand the job of the fpr.
Static will keep the fuel pressure accross the injector constant.
To understand this you must understand boost and engjne vacuum in the manifold.
High vacuum the fpr will reduce fuel pressure by exactly the same amount of vacuum your running. Vice versa with boost.
If you set it at 3bar atmospheric (either with vac pipe off reg or the pump running with engine off) when your car makes 1 bar boost the fuel pressure will rise to 4 bar, exactly 3 bar above boot pressure, maintaining 3 bar accross the nozzle. Vice versa of you pull .8 bar vacuum the fpr will drop fuel pressure by same amount, so 2.2 bar rail or 3 bar accross the nozzle.
Rising rate will increase fuel pressure accross the nozzle by it's ratio. 1.5:1 for example. So if you set you atmospheric fuel pressure at 3 bar, when running 1 bar boost your rail pressure will be 4,5 bar, therefore the pressure accross the nozzle will be 3.5 bar, and rising at a rate of 1.5 the boost pressure. Not an easy thing to tune with, usually used as a cheap bodge on NA cars converted to turbo as a fuel enrichment aid.
To understand this you must first understand the job of the fpr.
Static will keep the fuel pressure accross the injector constant.
To understand this you must understand boost and engjne vacuum in the manifold.
High vacuum the fpr will reduce fuel pressure by exactly the same amount of vacuum your running. Vice versa with boost.
If you set it at 3bar atmospheric (either with vac pipe off reg or the pump running with engine off) when your car makes 1 bar boost the fuel pressure will rise to 4 bar, exactly 3 bar above boot pressure, maintaining 3 bar accross the nozzle. Vice versa of you pull .8 bar vacuum the fpr will drop fuel pressure by same amount, so 2.2 bar rail or 3 bar accross the nozzle.
Rising rate will increase fuel pressure accross the nozzle by it's ratio. 1.5:1 for example. So if you set you atmospheric fuel pressure at 3 bar, when running 1 bar boost your rail pressure will be 4,5 bar, therefore the pressure accross the nozzle will be 3.5 bar, and rising at a rate of 1.5 the boost pressure. Not an easy thing to tune with, usually used as a cheap bodge on NA cars converted to turbo as a fuel enrichment aid.
#7
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yup - or if you need to poke a little more out of yours to smooth things up top. Don't forget as well the extra strain the higher pressure puts on your fuel rails and the fuel pump too.
I'd say it's OK if you had say 550's and you need 600's but not if you have 440's and need 1000's!
I'd say it's OK if you had say 550's and you need 600's but not if you have 440's and need 1000's!
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#8
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Some good replies there, thanks guys. I'll look for an adjustable static in that case.
The car isn't overly specced but it is a 2.0, currently standard turbo although I would like to go to a td05 18g, equal length tubular headers, decat up pipe 3" decat down pipe and system, 440cc injectors, fmic, 3 port bcs, 255lph pump and a panel filter.
I intend on getting it mapped to suit.
Cheers,
Andy.
The car isn't overly specced but it is a 2.0, currently standard turbo although I would like to go to a td05 18g, equal length tubular headers, decat up pipe 3" decat down pipe and system, 440cc injectors, fmic, 3 port bcs, 255lph pump and a panel filter.
I intend on getting it mapped to suit.
Cheers,
Andy.
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