Rear crank shaft seal
14 October 2014, 07:05 PM
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Rear crank shaft seal
Any tips on removing the rear crank shaft oil seal and sticking a new one in.Im sticking a new clutch in and noticed engine oil sat in the bottom of my gearbox housing
14 October 2014, 07:21 PM
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Common technique if you don't have a seal puller is to drill two small pilot holes into the metal band and screw self tappers in. You can then use a pair of pliers to pull the seal out.
I've done this a few times with success and feel it's better than trying to lever the seal out potentially damaging the block.
I've done this a few times with success and feel it's better than trying to lever the seal out potentially damaging the block.
14 October 2014, 07:28 PM
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Common technique if you don't have a seal puller is to drill two small pilot holes into the metal band and screw self tappers in. You can then use a pair of pliers to pull the seal out.
I've done this a few times with success and feel it's better than trying to lever the seal out potentially damaging the block.
I've done this a few times with success and feel it's better than trying to lever the seal out potentially damaging the block.
14 October 2014, 09:44 PM
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I never knew about a breather plate where does it live and how do I tackle it.Im come from a ford back ground so bare with me.Ive not took the flywheel off yet so im assuming its the rear seal
Last edited by Rick2014; 14 October 2014 at 09:46 PM.
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15 October 2014, 07:25 AM
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I got a new plate with new screws etc off eBay from ICP. I believe it's actually called the oil separator plate.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=281220235127
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=281220235127
Last edited by piehole1983; 15 October 2014 at 07:26 AM.
15 October 2014, 08:34 AM
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I got a new plate with new screws etc off eBay from ICP. I believe it's actually called the oil separator plate.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=281220235127
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=281220235127
they seem to cause more trouble than any thing else.Ive just got up gonna have breakfast and take the flywheel off to have alook.Im glad I booked the week off work.
Last edited by Rick2014; 15 October 2014 at 08:35 AM.
15 October 2014, 09:17 AM
#11
Probably need and impact screwdriver to remove and replace it, be as well doing the other small plate for the gudeon pin while your there. I wouldn't touch the rear seal if it's not leaking, might cause more problems than it solves!
You will need a tube of three bond to seal the two plates on. I've just done mine when the gearbox was off as they were leaking from me using the wrong gasket sealant when I rebuilt the engine. Remember and torque the flywheel bolts properly 75nm iirc, I used loctite too, but then my bolts are longer than factory
You will need a tube of three bond to seal the two plates on. I've just done mine when the gearbox was off as they were leaking from me using the wrong gasket sealant when I rebuilt the engine. Remember and torque the flywheel bolts properly 75nm iirc, I used loctite too, but then my bolts are longer than factory
15 October 2014, 10:48 AM
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Probably need and impact screwdriver to remove and replace it, be as well doing the other small plate for the gudeon pin while your there. I wouldn't touch the rear seal if it's not leaking, might cause more problems than it solves!
You will need a tube of three bond to seal the two plates on. I've just done mine when the gearbox was off as they were leaking from me using the wrong gasket sealant when I rebuilt the engine. Remember and torque the flywheel bolts properly 75nm iirc, I used loctite too, but then my bolts are longer than factory
You will need a tube of three bond to seal the two plates on. I've just done mine when the gearbox was off as they were leaking from me using the wrong gasket sealant when I rebuilt the engine. Remember and torque the flywheel bolts properly 75nm iirc, I used loctite too, but then my bolts are longer than factory
.I would love to no who decided to use screw heads for the plate Subaru are still trying to identify it over the phone lol and are even resorting to asking Subaru technical to find out what it is. I live in Manchester and I might have to travel to knutsford for it in which it could be an over night part
15 October 2014, 11:06 AM
#13
Why do you need another one? Is it an aluminium one? No need to replace, just re seal and replace.
Screw heads are not a problem with the correct tools, same as the oil pump screws if your ever that deep into one.
Screw heads are not a problem with the correct tools, same as the oil pump screws if your ever that deep into one.
15 October 2014, 11:22 AM
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You need a suitable sized drift to push the seal in evenly (i.e. same diameter as the seal). Large sockets, metal pipes and box spanners can all work well.
As others have said though make sure that is actually the problem first.
As others have said though make sure that is actually the problem first.
15 October 2014, 12:26 PM
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The plate was the problem.Subaru phoned me and said it would cost £31 plus vat for a new one and its an over night part.So you can guess what I did " where is that engine degreaser ".Got some new sealant and its going back on.Still got to degrease the gearbox yet the inside is full of muck and around where the flywheel lives.Ive not done a clutch change on a Subaru since 2001 and it was an import.Not doing bad I don't think
15 October 2014, 02:25 PM
#16
I think the skill is being able to see if your old bits are serviceable rather than just throw everything away.
In this case it looks like you've done the right thing, just make sure you use three bond as silicone and other gasket sealants tend not to work well in my experience
In this case it looks like you've done the right thing, just make sure you use three bond as silicone and other gasket sealants tend not to work well in my experience
15 October 2014, 02:49 PM
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I think the skill is being able to see if your old bits are serviceable rather than just throw everything away.
In this case it looks like you've done the right thing, just make sure you use three bond as silicone and other gasket sealants tend not to work well in my experience
In this case it looks like you've done the right thing, just make sure you use three bond as silicone and other gasket sealants tend not to work well in my experience
15 October 2014, 09:22 PM
#18
As in #13, if it's an aluminium breather/separator plate then just clean the old sealant off the plate and block face and reseal it.
If it's a plastic plate, then sling it in the bin and get the aluminium one as the plastic plates crack around the screw holes - usually the 2nd one up from the bottom left.
Mick
If it's a plastic plate, then sling it in the bin and get the aluminium one as the plastic plates crack around the screw holes - usually the 2nd one up from the bottom left.
Mick
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