type-ellis

iTrader: (24)

Hi guys, im hopeing one of you guys will be able to help me here.
Ive just finished a parallel fuel rail mod on my version 6 type r , I also removed all the old breather system and fitted a catch can and a new alloy intake pipe to replace the old silicone one from filter to turbo.

Ive got the car running again but on boost the car only boosts just under a bar now where as before it boosted to 1.2 bar. It also has a job starting, it will start but runs quite lumpy until you rev it then it clears and is normal. It seems to me like some kind of fuel pressure problem? If you leave the car running lumpy and pull a vac pipe off the inlet mani and put it staright back on , this also instantly makes the car idle smooth.

Any ideas anyone? the only thing ive realy moved fpr wise is the position of the fpr and where ive took its vac sorce from. If I remember correct the vac was on a t piece before where as now I have it going direct to its own port off the inlet mani.

Would realy like my extra boost back so any help would be great,

The car is maffless and is on a simtek ecu.

Cheers in advance, ellis

scooby-k

what is the fuel pressure with the vac pipe on and again with it off?

d.kenny

may sound stupid...but what did you do with the pcv under the throttle body?

have you blanked it off?

this could explain your poor idle and loss of boost

d.kenny

its a 1/4 or an 1/8 bsp i forget which

type-ellis

iTrader: (24)

Hi, this is the pressure before the car is started



This is it once the ignition is turned on



And this is with the car started on tick over



The car started fine thismorn no lumpy idle and didn't have to touch the throttle.

cheers for your help.

type-ellis

iTrader: (24)

Hi mate, I just took the pcv out and welded the end of it over and screwed it back in, so its pretty much just a bolt now.

cheers for your help

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

The correct location for the FPR vacuum source is the nipple on the inlet manifold over cylinder 3 which points at the turbo. I don't think it will matter which nipple you use as they should all have the same vacuum but mine was mapped with it on this nipple so I didn't want to move it to the central ones where vacuum may be a bit different.

It could be an air leak... for that there are obviously loads of places to check. Maybe do a leak test on the intake system?

Check all the vac lines for holes and cracks and replace with silicon lines if in any doubt. Stupid question but you have got the FPR after the injectors right? And not before?

I gather you removed the fuel evap system? I.e. charcoal canister?
I looked into the removal of the fuel evap system and the breather system and think I have them sussed... a copy and paste of what I worked out:

Fuel EVAP system removal:

Right, there are two vents ontop of the tank. These both have rollover valves which prevent leaks if the car tips.These two vents go into one pipe and then travel down the nearside sill alongside the supply and return line. In the engine bay the vent pipe goes under the inlet and into the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister has three outlets.One to the pressure switching valve on the offside suspension turret and is branched to the inlet pipe post MAF. One to the purge valve on the rear of the inlet manifold which then is connector to the throttle body. The third outlet is underneath the canister and vents to atmosphere.

To properly delete:

1. Vent the tank vents to atmosphere. You don't want to block them as it will prevent excess pressure getting out. You can either vent to atmosphere under the bonnet or even better back near the tank. I binned the metal heard line that runs back to front along the sill and vented to atmosphere just in front of the tank.

2. Bin the canister.

3. Bin the under manifold pipe.

4. Block/blank the hole in the underside of the inlet pipe post MAF.

5. Remove the pipe from the pressure switching valve and blank off or remove the T piece.

6. Blank the throttle body nipple.

7. Leave the purge valve connected electronically to prevent a CEL light but loop a small pipe over the two nipples on it to prevent dirt getting in it. The system is now fully deleted and you have no leaks.If you simply VTA the breather line you will end up with all those pointless bits in your engine bay. Please note this is how it works on classics (MY00) it may be different on later models with the canister near the tank.

As for the breather system as long as any intake ports are plugged it shouldnt cause your problem but here are my thoughts on deleting it:

On the classic you have the breather system as follows:

There is a pipe which is connected to the intake hose near the power steering pump. The pipe splits into two and goes to each head.

You then have the crank breather. This is divided into two. There is a small opening which leads back to the intake hose just before the turbo. There is a bigger opening which is connected to the throttle body via a one way valve (PCV Valve).

On boost and full throttle the PCV is closed. The pressure in the crank case exits the engine via the hose into the intake hose pre-turbo. It may also vent a bit through the heads but not much.

When you are off boost and there is vacuum in the intake manifold the PCV opens and the vacuum pulls dirty air from the crank case vent into the intake manifold to burn it off in combustion. This causes a vacuum in the crank case and clean air is sucked into it via the two head vents. As the head vent pipes and the two ways the crank vent can vent are all connected to system post MAF is is all read equally (no air escapes after the MAF has accounted for it).

If you VTA then you lose the metered air.

If you VTA and don't seal the PCV you will suck unmetered air in.

If you VTA you lose the vacum of the PCV which means new clean air is not introduced into the engine and the old acidic air which lingers in the crank case without suction to pull it out will increase wear.