Rich_UK

Whats the best way of doing this.

I want it to be adjustable so for normal driving conditions i can continue running 0.75-0.8 bar. ive been told that that is approx what my car is running.

I want to be able to turn it upto about 1.2 bar. There are kits on ebay

NEW IN CAR BOOST CONTROLLER KIT SUBARU IMPREZA WRX/ST1 - eBay Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 21-Sep-07 06:37:06 BST)

would you be able to lock these off so they can not go any further than 1.2 or would you rely on a boost gauge and increase it slowly ntil yo get desired boost??

Mark_B4

Mapping is the only way to safely increase boost.

These types of valves, just trick the ECU into thinking the boost is lower, so the wastegate doesn't open as early.

so you get extra boost, but the ECU doesn't add extra fuel, so you end up running lean, which can cause detonation, which could cost you a new engine.

Best seek advice from an expert, call Zak @ Mocom, banner at the top of this page

B0DSKI

iTrader: (17)

100% what was said above, never ever us an adjustable boost controller

Milamber

iTrader: (2)

Just ask Zak to do you 2 different maps.

I bet you that you will only ever use the 1.2 bar map after a while though.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

As with anything there are thresholds to adhere to, to maintain safety levels.

Boost controllers are great if used properly. The worst type I would say are the "in car" ones, as the temptation for some people will always be there to just whack it up whenever they feel like it. Hence the dangerous side of it that causes the damage.

My car currently runs 1.2 bar peak, then settles to 1.1 (Classic UK PPP). So I'm getting a controller just to avoid the spiking, especially as I have de-cat centre pipe about to go on. I won't be pushing it up past 1.2 bar. So thats the safety side of it.

The one on the ebay link, although it says "Boost controller" it looks more like a bleed valve, which normally spikes anyway. You should look for a Dawes Device, as they are best for holding boost the manual way.

joey_turbo

iTrader: (26)

I'm saying all this assuming you've got a Classic Impreza. When all the mods could be a bit more user freindly. If you have a newage, then these guys are right with the remap thing.

Rich_UK

Yes mate i have a classic. I think i will save a few pennies then and see where i go from there.

essexboy30

iTrader: (1)

As said previously a re-map is best.
Then if your runing a classic, then you'll probably need an Apexi power FC ECU and then an AVC-R which is an electronic in car control for swapping boost levels safely.

I have one fitted for 1.5bar on the road and then 1.8bar on track, to be inreased to 2.0bar

Mine was fitted by Zak @Mocom

frayz

iTrader: (7)

Dont see the point of adjustable boost.

Just regualate your right foot.

If you have to do it... see Zak @ Mocom Racing for an APEXi PFC and AVCR.

yellowvanman

The Apexi PFC has 4 boost options.

Zak suggested using them as follows
1. mapping to full potential, boost and rpm - Play mode
2. reduced boost and rpm - day to day setting (read wife),
3. 'garage' setting with zero boost.
4. reduced rpm limit, full boost for my day to day.

Hopefully to be done next week.

Rich_UK

How much does one of those cost sounds usefull

Mocom Racing

iTrader: (2)

There are a number of options depending on year.

Phase 1 (93-96)
can be remapped with the addition of the ESL Livemap board or the ECU can be replaced with something like an Apexi Power FC (MAF based) or Simtek (MAP based).
The Phase1 map sensor only reads upto a smidgen under 1.2bar so for those wanting to run higher boost you would need either.....

• a Dawes device at around £60
• later style MAP sensor at around £100
• Apexi 3port boost solenoid, circa £160?
• Apexi AVCR at around £450 fitted and set-up

The AVCR will allow finer control of the boost profile as you can map against rpm rather than just setting a single target as in the OEM and Apexi 3port control system.

Cost is £595 for the ESL option, £850 for the APFC or a little more for the Simtek.

Phase 1.5 (97-98)
ECU would need to be replaced with something like an Apexi Power FC or Simtek, in addition to these you could choose LinkG3, GEMs, Autronic, Motec or Pectel at greater cost.

Phase 2 (99-00)
ECU would need to be replaced with something like an Apexi Power FC or Simtek alternatively your phase2 ECU can be remapped by an EcuTek agent, please be aware that this option would lock you into EcuTek for any future changes.