sgunbie

I'm writing for some advice on a problem with my 54 plate Subaru Impreza WRX. I bought it in November and it has since been back the main dealer garage on numerous occasions for the same fault. Something to do with the AF sensor. The car is under warranty and they are a main dealer so I'm astonished as to why they can't fix it. I also haven't been given any paperwork on what they have done to the car. From memory I believe that they have replaced the AF sensor, fitted a new mass air flow filter, fitted a new recirculatory valve (as it had a dump valve). They've offered to programme the engine management light not to come on but I'm not happy with that as all it does is mask the problem. Would it need a new ECU? Any help much appreciated

Frenchwood

It seems to me that they're not correcting the fault and want to hide it away.

I'd suggest to them that they need to send it to an independent specialist as they are evidently not capable of diagnosing a vehicle.

Find your nearest scoob specialist and suggest their name to the dealer. I wouldn't be surprised if they magically fix it all of a sudden.

Oh, and if they simply extinguish the light, then who's to say it'll pass an emissions test?

Hth

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

why not just go to a specialist to get the fault diagnosed and then attack the dealer with your ammunition ?

sgunbie

Does anyone know of a specialist in the Reading area? Apparently they have diagnosed that there is an air leak somewhere in the system but they have done emission tests and there is no leak and all the schematics and performance is fine.

sgunbie

They also aren't giving me any paperwork for what they have tried over the 7 months this has been an issue.

I haven't gone elsewhere because I am trying to limit the cost to myself as this is already causing me a lot of problems.

Frenchwood

I would go back to the dealers and threaten to return the car under the sale of goods act.

I'd tell them they need to correct the problem or they're having the car back for a full refund as the problems started in warranty, and they've had a chance to fix it an failed.

If there's an air leak, and they've openly admitted to it, then it's their responsibility to find and correct it.

sgunbie

If the car has had a dump valve fitted would you need to remap the car to account for that?

Frenchwood

Usually no. Most people have the "DTA" (dump to atmosphere) valves fitted for the noise only and don't bother with a map (you can't map out the fact that DTA valves expel pre-metered air) , however; if the car has been mapped before with other mods, and then had the mods removed, then it could need a remap to correct a bad map.

Although If that were the case, I'd expect the car to be running like a bag of holy hell! Lol.

sgunbie

Wasn't sure if that could be what was causing the air leak. Although saying that the garage changed it to a normal recirculatory valve and the engine management light still came on

Bob Rawle

Whats the error code? that will allow me to give some pointers as to what and how to solve. By AF do you mean lambda? If so and its the rear sensor, for example, and the car is decatted, then thats not a surprise and the related codes can be safely turned off.

A dump valve should not normally need remapping for unless its been configured in such a way as to take the ecu's boost control system out of range

best regards

bob

sgunbie

I think it was an error code 32. Does that sound right? Having not been given any information I can only go on what I've heard the mechanics say.

All of the sensors have been replaced. Whether this is a lambda sensor or A/F sensor. Everything has been changed apart from the ECU

I'd greatly appreciate some advice

Frenchwood

A/F sensor is a lambda sensor.

P0032 code is the front O2 sensor. If it is decatted, as bob suggests, the rear O2 will report out of range , and the ECU may "Blame" the front O2 sensor.

Has the car got a CAT on it? Or has it been removed?

I think the dump valve may be a red herring here. Is this a Subaru dealer that you're taking it to? I'd be tempted to ask them if they've compression tested the car. Although it may not be chucking out blue smoke, if oil is coming past the rings it would cause O2 sensor problems.

HTH.

sgunbie

Yes the car has a cat on it. All of the emission teats have been fine as they left a record of one of these in the car. Would that include a compression test?

I'm no mechanic myself so I don't know exactly what I'm talking about. But yes I have been taking it back to Bulldog Twyford who are a Subaru dealership.

I'd have thought they would have done all the testing they could. Which is why they have said to me we don't know how to fix it- which is why I think a new ECU would be needed. They are reluctant to do that incase they spend the money on a new one and the light still comes on.

That is why I have said to return it but they aren't willing to give me a full refund (paying me back payments I've already made)

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

if the car is on finance and they cant fix it then it isnt fit for purpose

Bob Rawle

That code is heater control circuit high bank 1 sensor 1, its the front sensor and its basically got an open circuit heater coil, so it needs changing, how anyone could think thats a maf is beyond me.

But get it checked and post the correct code if its not that.

The front sensor is expensive but with that code the only solution is to replace assuming you have the correct code.

Emission testing does not include a compression test. That test is only used when engine problems occur and not done as any part of a service.

need to be absolutely clear on the error code please

cheers

bob

sgunbie

I know they've spoken about a difference in the readings to do with air in and air out. Which ever fault code would suit that is what I'm experiencing

Frenchwood

As we've both indicated, the code is front O2 sensor.

The only reason I mention compression testing is that you said that they've changed all the sensors. If there's oil hitting the O2 sensor, it'll play merry hell. I have this with a V6 omega I was looking at for someone. 24 valve stems and 2 O2 sensors later and it was fixed.

I'm not saying that your problem is the same, but when all sensors have been replaced, and the problem still comes up, then in my opinion it points to one of two things:

1. ECU is faulty
2. Something mechanical is knackering sensors.

Cheers

sgunbie

Apparently spoken to the previous owner and the pipe had been decated. Can the cats be put back in? I believe the garage told me it had the cats in as it isn't all that loud. I thought decated pipes are loud!?

Also the reason they traded the car in was that it was a write off due to rear end damage and the engine light issue.

They e sent me details which I think backs up my argument in returning the vehicle as they never advertised that it's been repaired. Stating its HPI clear

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

if it`s been decatted it isnt road legal

sgunbie

So a Subaru garage wouldn't be allowed to sell it to me

Frenchwood

Then they have misrepresented the vehicle, and as such; have broken the law.

You're within your rights to return it, and to report them to Trading Standards/OFT.

sgunbie

I've looked at the car with my mechanic and looks as though a new pipe has been fitted since the last owner had it.

The previous owner said the light was on due to it being decated. Could running the car for a length of time do damage to the car (engine) so the light would still keep coming on due to the damage?

Frenchwood

If it were me, I would plain return the car mate. It was sold to you under false representation, and although there may be no immediate/lasting damage, I'd be questioning what else the dealer had failed to tell me.

I believe (and i'm sure i'll be corrected if Wrong) but the light is on because the ECU thinks there should be a cat and the rear O2 sensor is getting an incorrect reading due to the cat being missing. The front O2 sensor is getting the "blame" from the ECU.

Infected by sti

iTrader: (6)

Same here I would be out of that car as soon as I knew the history behind it, its not so bad buying accident damaged cars when your aware of it, but if the last owner told you about the bang and you was not aware, and the management light coming on, then I would be inclined to give it back, if they refuse just park it on the forecourt lock it up and tell them your speaking to trading standards and involving the local press, if you weren't aware of the problems before now and are having hassle already, what does it hold further down the line, plus you have probably paid over the odds from a dealer for a car that has had a shunt, your money and your call but that's what I would be doing

sgunbie

Well I'd be speaking to them about returning it but they have been unwilling to give me a full refund. I traded my at in for it and took finance out on the difference. So I've paid back about £1,500 already on it. All they are willing to give me is the £2,000 trade in value for my old car.

Seeing as this has been an issue from day one I would have thought that I should be entitled to a full refund (reimbursing me what I've spent already) and the trade value back

Infected by sti

iTrader: (6)

That's where the difficulty may lye is settling the value on your px vehicle, but yes I would have thought if you can prove it was not fit for sale then you can argue that fact, but no doubt they will use the old " well we didn know it had a bump" and maybe not as if it does not show on a check then how can they be expected to know? Bit of a tricky one really but I still say you have a good chance if you play hard ball ( within reason and without being a burk ) contact the finance company your with, that's the route I took a few years ago and they sorted most if it out tbh, as technically they have an interest in the car, and if you was to default a payment or refuse to pay anymore and the car is not worth as much as what they agreed to finance then they are going to be left short, may be worth a shout

Frenchwood

Misrepresentation of a vehicle is against the law. Threaten them under the sale if goods act (you have 12 months from purchase IIRC) and if they don't give you a full and complete refund, then take it to OFT/Trading Standards; and tell them you're taking it to court. That should rattle their cage enough!

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

The OP says his mechanic has told him that a new (catted) pipe has been fitted.......just not sure how the car has been misrepresented.

As an aside, The PPP is fitted after sale of the car as it would not be possible to sell such an exhaust on a new car. Is it illegal to sell cars with a PPP fitted then?

Shaun

Frenchwood

I think I missed that...

The car has been misrepresented as the OP stated as follows:

That's misrepresentation by omission.

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

Every dealer ive bought from has shown me an hpi report. Did the op not get one or check it himself? perhaps the car was repaired without going threw insurance. Hence being hpi clear.