boma23

Hi All,

I've got a 2006 Hawkey PPP with 100K on clock, that is showing signs of a possible vacuum leak, or maybe dodgy MAF or MAP. It threw a P0172 (bank 1 rich) last week, which I cleared, but has still been drinking more than usual, intermittently down on power under full throttle, and intermittent revs rising/falling.

As I live on a remote island I have to ship in even things like MAF cleaner (and everything costs double with shipping).

I've got an Autel code reader that can do live data so want to do as much as possible to investigate beforehand, although may replace some bits regardless.

1. Can someone point me to the correct set of values I should be looking at to check whilst running? (thinking MAF, MAP, air/fuel)

2. Are there any common or usual suspect areas for vacuum leaks where the rubber tend to go? (i know the basic theory, but haven't actually had to search for one before, let alone on a Scooby)

3. Are any non-genuine MAPs any good? (see attached for choices)

4. I'm also grabbing an OEM PCV valve for sake of $10, but are these commonly known to fail or get bad with age on Scoobys?

I've read to stick OEM on the MAF (Denso) which I can get for $80 (about $120 landed for me), and to change them anyway if over 100K on the clock, so probably replacing this regardless rather than mess about trying to clean.

Thanks in advance for any help

Dom



non genuine MAPs

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

chances of a MAP sensor dying is really slim, look at your A/F Correction and A/F Learning values to see what the ECU thinks is going on, it could also be a dodgy o2 sensor or even just a plain old exhaust leak giving the O2 (and so the ECU) bad readings.

vac/boost leaks are easier checked with a smoke and pressure testing kit, you can buy one or build your own (have a quick google there are instructions out there for how to assemble something).

boma23

Great tip on the vac testing (about to build a brake pressure bleeder so same thing I guess).

Just fixed a blowing join on the exhaust mid section, but will check again - currently sounds normal at least!

Do you know what the values should be? That's what I'm having trouble finding, and are these values same between all vehicles (std for OBDII), or can they be specific to model?

In my head it makes sense that the perfect A/F ratio should be the same on any vehicle.

I'm less clear on whether different vehicles might calculate that A/F ratio from different size & shape of intake that may present different MAF values, and a different calculation? if that makes sense...

MrRtm

Afr should generally be as close to 14.7 as possible at idle, some fluctuation is OK, for instance mine will sit around 14.7 the majority of the time but occasionally fluctuate between 14.3-15 for a split second then settle again. Afr should be around 11.something (I forget) under wot, anything above 10 is generally OK but lower can cause borewash, most say mid 11s is best so as long as they are close I wouldn't worry. (copied from one of my posts)

boma23

Much appreciated - will take a look tonight.

Ahead of the new MAF arriving, I found a can of MAF cleaner on a neighbouring island, and seems to have done the trick.

Given age/milage am still going to swap out and keep it as a spare anyway, as nothing like having your car off the road for 2 weeks waiting for parts to arrive out here.