P0244 - gb270
16 January 2020, 07:00 PM
#1
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P0244 - gb270
I just bought a gb270 a few months ago and I have found that every so often when I put my foot down (1.5 bar of boost) the car cuts fuel/boost and then it's okay a second or so later. It throws up a (p0244) code when that happens. It also sometimes limits the boost pressure to 0.4 bar and it won't go past that. It seems to happen more in 4th and 5th.
The car is a gb270 (2.5 turbo) it has the k&n apollo induction kit, forge dump valve, turbo back jap speed exhaust and a remap from Duncan Graham. (All the mods where done before I bought the car)
does anyone have any ideas on what's most likely or what I can do to fix it? I have spoke to Duncan about it and he reccomend I go down and see him but as I'm quite far away I was hoping someone might have some ideas before I say I'll go down that far. Thanks
The car is a gb270 (2.5 turbo) it has the k&n apollo induction kit, forge dump valve, turbo back jap speed exhaust and a remap from Duncan Graham. (All the mods where done before I bought the car)
does anyone have any ideas on what's most likely or what I can do to fix it? I have spoke to Duncan about it and he reccomend I go down and see him but as I'm quite far away I was hoping someone might have some ideas before I say I'll go down that far. Thanks
17 January 2020, 09:59 AM
#2
when it's limiting to low boost, that's wastegate pressure because the ECU has put the car in limp mode. First step would be get car checked out with a computer to see what's actually happening. The P0244 code is for the boost solenoid "Wastegate Solenoid Range/Perf" so could be as simple as the solenoid is broken or a hose has popped off. 1.5 bar is a lot for a standard engine so I wouldn't continue to push it on at that level or you'll end up needing a rebuild.
17 January 2020, 10:48 AM
#3
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when it's limiting to low boost, that's wastegate pressure because the ECU has put the car in limp mode. First step would be get car checked out with a computer to see what's actually happening. The P0244 code is for the boost solenoid "Wastegate Solenoid Range/Perf" so could be as simple as the solenoid is broken or a hose has popped off. 1.5 bar is a lot for a standard engine so I wouldn't continue to push it on at that level or you'll end up needing a rebuild.
when i get home later i will see if i can see if the solenoid is okay. i don't think it would be a pipe coming off as it can be fine for a week and then have the problem for a minute and be okay after? its almost like something is going out of a parameter every so often. since i've had the car its always boosted to 1.5 bar, i thought this was normal on a gb270 with a remap which im guessing will be between the standard 270hp and 300hp (what the previous owner said its roughly at). a few other gb270 lot are saying they are between the 1.3 bar and 1.5 bar. i think standard this model runs at 1.1/2 bar? i could be wrong though. ive only really started to look into all the stuff for subarus.
17 January 2020, 10:53 AM
#4
standard boost is 1bar on a GB270 (about 260hp) vs a standard WRX at .7 bar - most remaps will go to about 1.3bar peak to protect the engine from early piston ring failure. The low boost/limp mode if it's being caused by the ECU then it's because of knock correction (the ecu hears det/knock and eventually pulls the boost back to base level for safety).
Are you sure you still have the standard TD04 turbo? maybe it's been changed for an STI one. I'd still get the car plugged in just to make sure it's targeting a safe boost level for the setup.
Are you sure you still have the standard TD04 turbo? maybe it's been changed for an STI one. I'd still get the car plugged in just to make sure it's targeting a safe boost level for the setup.
17 January 2020, 11:22 AM
#5
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The low boost isnt a permanent thing, it comes and goes. i never seem to have any problem in 1st to 3rd. is more 4th and 5th when im at lowish rpms. i know the previous owner used to run shell 99 but im using the tesco 99 due to how far away the nearest shell garage is.
turbo wise im unsure? is there any distinguishing features to tell them apart? when you say get the car plugged, do you mean plug an obd reader in too see what codes are being thrown up? ive already plugged my code reader in and i get a code on the front 02 sensor due to it being removed for a decat (previous owner) and the p0244 code which in intermittent, i can have it for a few minutes and then not having anything for 3 weeks (i drive the car everyday)
turbo wise im unsure? is there any distinguishing features to tell them apart? when you say get the car plugged, do you mean plug an obd reader in too see what codes are being thrown up? ive already plugged my code reader in and i get a code on the front 02 sensor due to it being removed for a decat (previous owner) and the p0244 code which in intermittent, i can have it for a few minutes and then not having anything for 3 weeks (i drive the car everyday)
17 January 2020, 11:26 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
standard boost is 1bar on a GB270 (about 260hp) vs a standard WRX at .7 bar - most remaps will go to about 1.3bar peak to protect the engine from early piston ring failure. The low boost/limp mode if it's being caused by the ECU then it's because of knock correction (the ecu hears det/knock and eventually pulls the boost back to base level for safety).
Are you sure you still have the standard TD04 turbo? maybe it's been changed for an STI one. I'd still get the car plugged in just to make sure it's targeting a safe boost level for the setup.
Are you sure you still have the standard TD04 turbo? maybe it's been changed for an STI one. I'd still get the car plugged in just to make sure it's targeting a safe boost level for the setup.
The low boost isnt a permanent thing, it comes and goes. i never seem to have any problem in 1st to 3rd. is more 4th and 5th when im at lowish rpms. i know the previous owner used to run shell 99 but im using the tesco 99 due to how far away the nearest shell garage is.
turbo wise im unsure? is there any distinguishing features to tell them apart? when you say get the car plugged, do you mean plug an obd reader in too see what codes are being thrown up? ive already plugged my code reader in and i get a code on the front 02 sensor due to it being removed for a decat (previous owner) and the p0244 code which in intermittent, i can have it for a few minutes and then not having anything for 3 weeks (i drive the car everyday)
17 January 2020, 11:34 AM
#7
the low boost wouldn't be permanent no - the ecu is constantly adjusting timing in the background trying to reach the optimum value (what it has been mapped for) but continuous overboost would lead to knock which the ECU detects and so pulls back to the point where it stops the wastegate from operating. Once the condition clears it adds timing back in and runs the solenoid again so it will come and go until such time as it throws a fault code for the turbo not behaving itself.
Identifying marks on the turbo, yes TD04 is TD04 shaped turbo and a VF usually has IHI written on the compressor housing. Some good pictures of your turbo posted up and I might even be able to tell you.
By plugged in i mean plugging in a diagnostic computer/laptop/tablet fancy tool that will log live data and display it in realtime so you can see what the ECU is doing and diagnose it properly. Or just assume it's a broken/faulty boost solenoid and replace it. Overboosting will be less noticable to the naked eye in 1st and 2nd especially as your moving through the revs so quickly anyway, but it shouldn't be happening at all so it needs properly looking into to confirm the fault and save you from constantly throwing parts at it in hopes of hitting the mark.
Identifying marks on the turbo, yes TD04 is TD04 shaped turbo and a VF usually has IHI written on the compressor housing. Some good pictures of your turbo posted up and I might even be able to tell you.
By plugged in i mean plugging in a diagnostic computer/laptop/tablet fancy tool that will log live data and display it in realtime so you can see what the ECU is doing and diagnose it properly. Or just assume it's a broken/faulty boost solenoid and replace it. Overboosting will be less noticable to the naked eye in 1st and 2nd especially as your moving through the revs so quickly anyway, but it shouldn't be happening at all so it needs properly looking into to confirm the fault and save you from constantly throwing parts at it in hopes of hitting the mark.
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17 January 2020, 08:27 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
the low boost wouldn't be permanent no - the ecu is constantly adjusting timing in the background trying to reach the optimum value (what it has been mapped for) but continuous overboost would lead to knock which the ECU detects and so pulls back to the point where it stops the wastegate from operating. Once the condition clears it adds timing back in and runs the solenoid again so it will come and go until such time as it throws a fault code for the turbo not behaving itself.
Identifying marks on the turbo, yes TD04 is TD04 shaped turbo and a VF usually has IHI written on the compressor housing. Some good pictures of your turbo posted up and I might even be able to tell you.
By plugged in i mean plugging in a diagnostic computer/laptop/tablet fancy tool that will log live data and display it in realtime so you can see what the ECU is doing and diagnose it properly. Or just assume it's a broken/faulty boost solenoid and replace it. Overboosting will be less noticable to the naked eye in 1st and 2nd especially as your moving through the revs so quickly anyway, but it shouldn't be happening at all so it needs properly looking into to confirm the fault and save you from constantly throwing parts at it in hopes of hitting the mark.
Identifying marks on the turbo, yes TD04 is TD04 shaped turbo and a VF usually has IHI written on the compressor housing. Some good pictures of your turbo posted up and I might even be able to tell you.
By plugged in i mean plugging in a diagnostic computer/laptop/tablet fancy tool that will log live data and display it in realtime so you can see what the ECU is doing and diagnose it properly. Or just assume it's a broken/faulty boost solenoid and replace it. Overboosting will be less noticable to the naked eye in 1st and 2nd especially as your moving through the revs so quickly anyway, but it shouldn't be happening at all so it needs properly looking into to confirm the fault and save you from constantly throwing parts at it in hopes of hitting the mark.
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